I just painted my first brass model using the oil based Scalecoat I. I am wondering if it is possible to use Scalecoat II on the Scalecoat I for my weathering and such. Will I have issues with it sticking or any long-term peeling concerns?
Thanks!!
It will be just fine.
Sheldon
Hi, NASARACER
Just curious, did you do the bake-out as recommended by scalecoat?
My only minor concern with painting over the Scalecoat I would be to allow plenty of drying time in a warm, dry location to allow the VOCs to flash off, or evaporate.
Let us know how you make out. Ed
no expert here , but only other option is strip it and I think I recall some one once saying scale coat does NOT come off easy…So I would say wash ,prep and go for it…JW [:$] oops didn’t catch the weathering part ,thought you were a repaint
I don’t know their exact instructions, but I did have everything in the oven for an hour at 170 degrees. This was early yesterday and there is no paint smell or tackiness to it today so I feel confident that it is dry.
The local hobby shop is winding down a lot of the different colors as Scalecoat leaves the paint world. The mix I used yesterday was just plain black with some UP gray mixed in it. It came out very glossy and I still have some ‘steam power black’ left in SC II that I was thinking about spraying on it to dull it out. I may just end up using a dullcote to tone it down instead, but was also curious on using the SC II for weathering.
Thanks everyone for the responses!
Since when is Scalecoat leaving the paint world ?
Mark.
Ive not herd anything about this and just checked the web page ? …Jerry
Where did you hear of or read the news that “Scale Coat was leaving the paint world” ?
Sorry, could be mistaken…who was it that recently announced they wouldn’t be making anymore model RR paint?
That was Testor’s discontinuing the Pollyscale acrylic model railroad colors. That was unfortunate but at least we have some decent alternatives including Tru-color and Scale Coat.
I will say from experience that Scale Coat II is very durable and flows well out of the airbrush at 20 to 25 psi when properly thinned. I typically thin it between 50% to 60% with lacquer thinner. Even automotive lacquer thinner works well with it. Once cured, you can apply acrylic or solvent based paints over it for weathering purposes with no problems.
ohhhh; been there my myself, the old turn on computer insert foot thing …been there many ,many times …you scared the wheels off many >>>> you mite be thinkin of floquil/polyscale going byby
Here’s a link to instructions and hints… for your next project!
http://www.weavermodels.com/page12.html
It is the glossiness that I like about Scalecoat. Ready for decals without added steps of clear gloss, matte, etc.
At times I like to keep some of my equipment on the glossy side anyway. Not every piece of railroad equipment looks like it just survived a dust storm!
Hope the link helps, Ed
I was a custom painter for over 25 yrs and I’ve used Scalecoat since it first came out. I’ve used SC1 over SC2 and SC2 over SC1. Never had any problems with either way.
Ed, thanks for the link! Good info on there!
Sorry about the confusion everyone. That is what happens when I try to go from memory, haha!!! Yes, it was the Polyscale I was thinking about.
Thanks again everyone for the advice and feedback.