One of you mentioned using Scalecoat II paint engine black. How did that work out for you? Recently I painted a tender using Model Master flat black. I love the look compared to gloss paint, but I had a problem with decaling stars that came in strips, you could see the clear decal in between the white stars. I knew this might happen. I ended up taking them off. This might actually be two questions.
The usual rule is to decal over gloss paint ONLY then spray on a coat of Dullcote or similar dulling medium. Flat paint is rough so that when one decals over the top air is trapped underneath and shows the decal or even gives a silvery look to the film. Also poor adhesion results.
I was under the impression that painting over a decal was a no no. As for adhesion, I did experience that, but only on the smallest of flags.
“Painting” with paint, over a decal is a no-no but you can spray dullcote or glosscote over it.
dekruif
Thanks, does this mean I have to redo my new tender? Hum, maybe I’ll add it to my impossibly long list of things to fix.
You would think I would have things to do other than sit here and read the forum… hehe
Here is a trick worth trying, from my days of military model building. Use a clear acrylic floor wax (the Future brand works well) and paint it on the areas of the model you wish to decal with an old, soft brush. 2 or 3 thin layers and you will have a super slick, smooth shiny surface to apply the decals to. Apply decals as you usually would, then coat the model with Dullcoat or a similar matte medium. The decals will adhere great and the clear decal film and acrylic wax will dissapear. Always works well for me.
Thanks, I will try this out.
Though I primarily paint with acrylics, I prefer to use Scale Coat II Gloss Black whenever I paint metalize with Alclad II.
Strong smell, but the quality is excellent. Properly thinned it dries to a hard, high-gloss finish. The key is to lay the black in thin coats and allow sufficient “flash off” time between coats.