All terain is constructed but unpainted. All rocks and boulders are cast and already painted.
In the sequence of next steps in scenery construction I have the following qu
In my opinion, I would say do your base first. If you have to get rocks in such a way that a small crack occurs, with having the color already, you donāt have to get creative to cover the crack.
Even with my grass and such, I paint the base so that Iām covered if the glue doesnāt hold the turf in a spot. You just see ground color.
I think there is a difference between a blended rock and a loose rock/boulder, such as those seen at the bottom of a mountain. Blended rocks should be blended in with sculptamold or plaster, so itās best to put the rockwork in first, blend with plaster, then paint both. For loose rocks, I paint my terrain first, glue the rocks, then paint them.
I donāt know about you folks, but I always end up doing touch-ups anyways, whatever Iām painting.
Simon
If youāre using rock castings, when you put then in place youāll probably need to add some plaster around the edges so it blends in with the rest of the scenery (i.e. doesnāt have big gaps). So I would put the rock castings in place and then color the scenery.
Instead of painting the entire base first, why not use paper to identify the approx footprint of the structures you plan to use. This way you avoid wasting time painting needlessly.
Rocks and other scenery can get added afterward.
I usually paint my rock castings first, then glue them down. I then put scenic stuff (Gypsolite) around them and paint it with thin washes of acrylic paint, green and brown. That covers the edges. I might add smaller rock castings after that, also pre-painted.
Appreciae the tips guys. Thanks. Helps me make a plan for what to do next.
Something I learned is to pre-color the plaster in your castings (or other scenery) appropriately, and to include āaggregateā or texturing material in the plaster where appropriate. Then if any spots chip or crack, or you start reworking a carved area, you donāt get that stark-white ācliffs of Doverā lookā¦
Yes, this saves some extra effort if thereās a break, and if you canāt fix it right away, the White Cliffs of Dover look persists. I use(d) masonry dye powder in my ground goop mix a-la-Fugate. It takes some practice to get the amounts and mixes right for the look youād like, but it works well, and when something breaks, you can just pour and glue more ground foam or leave it and add some tallus or something to look like a fall.
Me too. To make rock castings, I add 1 tsp black tempera powdered paint (or acrylic craft paint) to 1 cup warm water and sift in 2 cups of plaster; pour it into the mold and let it set overnight. The result is a light gray casting which serves as a good base that you can use as-is. If you want to add paint for color variation or highlights, YouTube has only several hundred videos that will show you how!
You can still add small white specks for bird droppings if you so desire![:D]
Jim
I tried that route. I tried ordering the color I needed (buff) and another guy showed pictures and it was very orange. So I switched to adding powdered pigment to my plaster, and it looked decent when I put it down, but I had to spray it with water to remove the brush marks or other unnatural shapes. It ended up fading the coloring. Iād rather have the shape more natural.
Iāve painted over it now with a base desert sand stone color since.
I have also added colorant to my rock castings but find it doesnāt allow me to use them āas isā but is only a bit of insurance against any stark white spots showing up when a chip or ding inevitably appears.
A little trick I like to use when placing castings, especially large heavier ones, is that once I think I like the placement of the castings I drill a hole (two for really large castings) through the casting and into the base. I then insert wooden skewers which help hold the casting more or less in place. I can then back away to view the placement from a distance, or from where it will nor
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