Hey guys, I am trying to get my NMRA MMR. I need to do 7 of the 11 AP courses. One is Master Builder Motive Power. One of the three engines has the be scratchbuilt. What would be a good loco to build, and what kind of materials would I need, like how do i make the hood doors and vents on a diesel? Like the hood the corners are rounded off how would I do this with plastic? I would love any advice and help. Mike
Unless you are really set on a diesel, you may want to try a steamer. The more I think through it, the easier it seems, atleast compared to a diesel.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but if you’re going to be a Master Model Railroader, shouldn’t you already know the answers to some of your questions? I’m not trying to sound smug or unhelpful, but it just seems like basic stuff to make a hood door out of styrene.
I don’t know if my engine counts. I needed a little switcher and the Grandt Line was not my choice. Too bad running.
It was some satisfaction completing this switcher, with sound! But also a challenge. SMD parts soldering and more. I made it mainly from brass sheet, wire, paper (for the hood doors) and a few parts like sun shades, fire cracker antenna, bell, NBWs, Kadee springs, coupler, driving unit, ESU Loksound micro, beacon light, yellow and white LEDs, SMD resistors 1kOhm.
Wolfgang
Yes, that made me wonder too. The other engines that are needed to qualify must be heavily detailed with hopefully scratchbuilt parts too. You need to achieve at least 87.5 points out of a possible 125 to qualify for a Merit Award for each; they have to be judged by qualified NMRA members. The Motive Power certificate is issued to modelers who demonstrate they are masters of the craft of engine building, and not someone feeling around trying to find out how things could be done.
What about the other 6 AP certificates? Can you possibly qualify for them without this sort of experience and knowledge?
If you are seeking information, do a search on the MR magazine index for scratchbuilt diesels and such, read about how others have done it, try it youself to see if you can indeed scratchbuild a diesel.
I personally hold 5 of the AP certificates, and only need to scratchbuild a loco myself to qualify for this one. I know how to do it, I just haven’t had the interest and/or time to get it started. My last certificate needed will be Railroad Dispatcher, all I need for that one is about 10 hours of dispatching a model railroad and associated paperwork. Since I do my modeling on modules, I can’t do it on my own. I can on a friend’s layout, but it seems like too much work, when I’d rather just run trains!
For anyone who absolutely, positively has to scratchbuild a locomotive but really wants the project to be as simple as possible…
Have I got a prototype for you!!!
The Japan National Railway Company, finding itself in need of shop switchers, came up with the B20 class:
http://www.kurogane-rail.jp/sl/eb20.html
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0-4-0T, with roller skate wheels for drivers. I think, but can’t prove, that they simply added crankpins and counterweights to a pair of standard (for bigger JNR steam) spoked lead wheels.
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Shotgun boiler - perfectly cylindrical, no taper.
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Combined steam and sand dome that strongly resembles a large tool box.
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Simple plate frame. Springs inside, hidden from view.
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Cab, side tanks and bunker are all straight lines and flat surfaces.
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Mostly welded construction, but with a few BIG rivets to keep the (two words) happy.
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Large, simple motionwork parts.
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No lights.
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No air brake system.
The only parts that would require special skills are the cylinder heads and number plates.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Can I ask why you are going for your MMR? I know a few guys around my town who have that “label” and they walk around with their noses pointed to the sky all the time. Long story short, it is impossible to have a conversation with them without them mentioning the fact that they are Master Model Railroaders.
David B
I built a diesel a while back. You can see a short essay on how I did it here http://www.dansresincasting.com/GE132%20ton%20PG1.htm I did not do this for the MR certificate as I don’t go after things like that. This was done more as a dare by a friend who is building one in G scale and did not think it could be done in HO.
Dan
So you assume anyone who has done a whole lot of quality work that has been awarded MMR is automatically a model railroad snob? The NMRA program is called the Achievment Program, where modelers can achieve certain known levels to promote their own growth in various aspects of the hobby. If someone pushes their achievements upon others, that is their personal way of living and should in no way reflect on others who aren’t braggarts.
True.
David B
I suppose I could have left the MMR part out, I probably could have avoided the flak. I apperciate those who posted actual information pretaining to my question. I want MMR, not for bragging rights, but mearly, to prove to myself that I can model just as good as anyone else, I would like to become the youngest person to get such a title, being 16 I think I should be pretty close. Does it hurt that maybe I don’t know how to scratchbuild a loco. Maybe I can build a structure or a car, but not a loco. But thanks again to everyone else who gave me information. Maybe one of these days I will actully get around to doing it, but I tihnk now I will concentrate on other things. Thanks Mike
My advice is to read some back issues of MR magazine and then do some experimenting to learn. I agree that a diesels hood louvers are a problem -I haven’t seen scratchbuilt examples that looked good. You might want to try and build a 0-6-0 steamer as there are less wheels, parts, etc. The only thing with a smaller engine is fitting the motor in. MR had a detailed series on building an engine from scratch in October 1997 through May 1998 that you could get back copies for.
Bruce
Nobody’s trying to discourage you, but those of us that have been around the block a few times know that what you’re asking is unrealistic. What you should do, is forget about the MMRR for now and get some experience by picking a project to build and follow through with it. It doesn’t have to be completely scratched, use parts from other models, parts from Details West, Cannon, etc. and get some experience, it’s how all of us learned, I’m sorry there are no short cuts. Above all, have fun with it, that’s what the hobby’s all about.
Nice job on your loco build, Dan. [^] [;)]
Wayne
That is a very cool scratch building job! And an excellent presentation, too.
Btw - picture of motor and drive shafts on the bottom of page 1 doesn’t display - could be something wrong in the image link. I’d love to see how you did this part too.
Smile,
Stein
Thanks for the compliments guys, Yes, something is messed up with the pictures on the web site. I have been meaning to get in there to fix it and keep getting sidetracked. The problem started when some hacker decided to put a boyscout troups web page on my site. This is the missing picture
Nothing realy special. A Helix Humper (A Line) motor with parts scavenged from the parts box to round out he drive line. As indicated the long driveshaft is from a Stewart C628 and the short shaft and flywheels are from the donor proto 2000 SW that gave up its trucks. By the way, this was my first full on . Prior to this I only did kit bash projects with comercially available parts. my only regret with this project is that I did not build the shell with making a mold of it in mind. I would now like to have a couple more of these to run. Maybe someday.
Thanks again guys,
Dan Pikulski
Doesnt “Scratch Building” a locomotive include turning the wheels, making the gears and so on? From what I see, the above just made a frame out of brass and put a stewart drive on it.
David B
From the requirements:
The following parts are specifically excluded from the scratch built requirement (although you may scratch build them to earn additional points):
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Motor
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Gears
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Drivers and wheels
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Couplers
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Light bulbs & electronics
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Trucks
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Paint, decals,etc.
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Bell
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Marker and classification lights
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Brake fittings
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Basic shapes of wood, plastic, metal,etc.
("Basic shapes are things that builders of the prototype would have used as raw materials. For example an “I” beam would be a basic shape; a commercial door or window casting would not.)
The full set of requirements are here http://www.nmra.org/education/achievement/ap_motive.html
Enjoy
Paul
From the NMRA site:
To be considered scratchbuilt, a model must have been constructed by the applicant without the use of any commercial parts except
- Motor
- Gears
- Drivers and wheels
- Couplers
- Light bulbs
- Trucks
- Bell
- Marker and classification lights
- Valve gear
- Car brake fittings
- Basic wood, metal and plastic shapes
A model is considered “scratchbuilt” if at least 90% of the model’s pieces/parts (other than those specifically exempted in the list above) are fabricated by the modeler. This is a quantitative assessment based on the number of pieces with no weight given to complexity. This is a separate determination from the scratch building score.
Heck, if that is the case, then I have already scratch built a few locomotives…
David B