Does any one make their own L&P couplers. I so how?
Thanks
Scott
Links and pins are easy enough with brass rod and a pair of pliers. It’s the recepticles into which they get placed that offer a degree of difficulty. Ozark Miniatures and Hartford offer castings for link pockets that are fairly inexpensive. Baring that, you can easily bend some brass strip into a C channel, and drill a hole to accept the pin. (Think of a taco shell) The back side of the C can be bolted to the end of the car. That’s all that was on many mining cars.
Later,
K
Kstrong,
Thanks for the idea. I think that’s what i’ll do.
Thanks again
Scott
… and for pins?
Use pop rivets-- the smallest ones. I just trim the “nail” portion to lenght weather them a bit to get rid bright aluminmum finish
That’s what I did on my Huntsville and Lake of Bays stuff.
There cheap, too - so I don’t worry about loose them in garden.
Regards,
Jeff.
any pics?
thanks
One thing, backing up with link-and-pin couplers is difficult, just as it was on the prototype!
SandyR
Scott,
I use a bit of clothes hanger wire, electrical conector, key ring with a files down gold tee marker on the end, ( confussed ?)
Wifes still in the process of updating my web site and some of the picturs dont show, or dont enlarge, but you can see ho I do it on
If it does not work give it a couple of days
www.gscalechuffchuff.com
Tony
Hi trainmaster1989
Construction will be made easier if you start with an apropriate
sized length of K&S brass channel prior to cutting to coupling lengths
drill a hole in the centre of the channel ie back of couplers to fix it to the car then a hole in the center of the top right through the couplers.
For the pin use a steel split pin soldered so it canot be split the eye will stop it going through and it can be uncoupled with a magnet pen.
The link can be made from bath plug chain or bent from brass rod.
Hope this makes some sort of sense without a sketch
regards John