I have heard this many times. I don’t know where it originally came from (I presume from the dimensions of some Bachmann and other toy turnouts), but examination of an actual Atlas snap switch (which anyone can do and see for themselves) proves it is not true.
Here is a photo of the curved section of an Atlas Snap Switch. It has straight lines digitally drawn close to the edges. Notice how it is easy to see the bow in the rail. This means the track is curved.
Here is a photo of an Atlas Snap Switch Frog. It has straight lines digitally drawn along the edges of the track. Notice the track is exactly parallel to the lines. This means the track is straight.
All the tight curvature in an Atlas Snap-Switch happens before the frog. The frog itself is straight. This is done with the low resolution mode of the camera. The higher the resolution the easier it is to see. High resolution images are too hard to deal with on the forum.
The information comes from Atlas’s own track planning documents. These state (paraphrased) that the Atlas Snap Switch comes with a 10 degree section of 18" radius, which when added to the curved path of the turnout is the equivalent of a full section of 18" radius. In addition, Atlas states that the curved path of a Snap Switch can be substituted for a piece of 18" radius (when the 10 degree fitter piece is added) and the straight path for a 9" straight. Atlas also mentions the 1.5" inch offset.
Now it could well be (and you photos would suggest) that the Snap Switch is not exactly an 18" radius but a substitute for. If the frog is indeed not curved through the diverging
I’ve seen it in that configuration on many layouts. Including one I had in grade school. However, my real point wasn’t that it didn’t fit in that overall substitution, but simply that the frog itself is not curved.
I’d be interested in hearing the results or at least your observations. I’m pretty certain others will be interested too.
Well, I use sectional and flex as needed. Sectional has, in my eyes, three major disadvantages.You’re limited to predetermined radii, you end up with a lot of joints, and there is no way to create easements.
Flex track has the advantage of making a proper easement and fewer joints for electrical continuity, as well as setting a curve to fill space as needed, or having buildings where you want them rather than where the track goes. Yes, once you solder up all the joints, they’re equal in conductivity, but sectional requires a lot of soldering, and every joint is a potential problem.
Flex is more work if you use it for all spurs and siding, and it always seems that my leftover cuts are the wrong length for what I’m currently doing. I have a small box of “flex-sectional” track. I guess I should build a shelf time-saver with all the pieces.
On my layouts, I use as much flex as possible, resorting to sectional for spurs, sidings and bridges. I use code 55 and use Atlas and Peco almost exclusively. All dual gage is hand made. ( N and Nn3 scale)
Keep in mind, if you use flextrack, that at virtually every joining of two pieces you’re going to have to trim and file at least one rail to length. It’s not that easy. Yes you get better with practice but laying out cork roadbed and laying flextrack isn’t well suited for someone who may change their layout a few times before coming up with the final plan. I know on my layout I’ve enjoyed being able to make changes and try different ideas using the Unitrack.
I’ve used Bachmann EZ-track and it’s pretty good, I particularly like the variety of pieces (No. 4-5-6 turnouts, up to 36" radius curves) and the 36" straight tracks. Note that unlike Kato and Atlas, EZ track is designed to have ballast added after installation, the roadbed isn’t mean to simulate ballast.
EZ-track is code 100, Atlas and Kato are code 83. In HO Kato Unitrack rails have a very narrow profile that are to my eye pretty close to scale, at least closer than the fairly wide Atlas code 83.
I “paint” the sides of the rails with Neo-Lube so they’re a dark gray, then paint some of the individual ties with different shades of brown and gray, leaving some black. I find it looks good even before adding ballast to the sides or a final layer of weathering.
