I am going to build a new HO layout using code 100 track and i was considering foam to be laid over plywood
My concern with using foam was the best way to lay track and have it secure.
I have seen some suggest gluing (Liquid nails) the roadbed and others using screws
Any suggestions
Thanks
You do not really need the plywood.
I am a fan or CHEAP latex caulk (not Silicon) Whether you use road bed or not put the caulk on the foam, a very small bead of caulk, spread thin with a stick or putty knife and lay the track. Hold down for 12 hours to dry with weight (pop cans) or pins. If you use road bed, use caulk for that as well.
I assume you’re going to be using some kind of roadbed between the track and the foam, since foam is really QUITE a sound reflector. I’d reccommend WS foam roadbed, it deadens the sound quite nicely.
I’ve used both Liquid Nails (the water-based) and plain old Elmer’s carpenter glue to secure my track. I also recommend using the WS long brads to hold the flex-track in place while the glue dries. It works quite well, and the WS foam roadbed offers a good ‘cushion’ for the track.
Like Art, I think you can probably dispense with the plywood, since the 2" foam really provides a good, solid base. It also means that your benchwork can be done with 1x3" supports, rather than the standard 2x4, and will be much lighter. My 24x26’ Yuba River Sub was built solely with stacked foam and 1x3’s, and it’s extremely lightweight and sturdy. If you are a little wary–as I was at first–you can use closer bracing under the foam. Frankly, I was amazed at how actually STRONG the stuff is!
Once you start working with foam, you’ll be both amazed and surprised at how easy it is.
Tom
ARTHILL / Twhite
Thanks for the information , looks like all Foam w/ Liquid nails is a better choice
Thanks again
[:)]
I agree with twhite. I have 1X3 supports and use the 2" pink rigid foam. My whole layout is really light (I used 2X2 legs which were ripped 2X4’s) and really, really strong.
I used PL300 to secure the foam to the cross supports. You only need latex caulk to secure WS foam trackbed to either the rigid foam or to the track itself.
Liquid nails works, so does epoxy. If you get my drift. I’ve become a fan of latex caulk as well, using it for alot of things. Removing track fastened to foam with liquid nails is not trivial. I had to use my belt sander to ‘level’ and square the bottoms of the track I took up.
At the risk of being flame bait, I am also not a fan of foam, I like 3/4 plywood cut in to ‘ribbons’ and built my 12 X16 on L girders in that fashion. I like screen wire and plaster for scenery too, the only things I use foam for is flat areas of scenery where I want it to be removeable, and as a vertical foundation to hold the screen wire. Plywood and foam are about the same price and it takes less plywood than foam if you do the cookie cutter ribbons. If your layout is going to be flat, plywood for sure.
[2c]
Please, for your own peace of mind consider the caulk. These guys convinced me about a month ago, on my second tube! Thanks Art and Randy!
Joe Daddy
I’ve used 1x3 and 1x4 under the foam and then a layer of 3/16th birch plywood on the top. This provides a good way to hold track screws and holes drilled in it keep their shape.
Ken
the Southampton, Sag Harbor and Montauk Line
How does one secure the switch machines to foam?
Hi Ken,
Wouldn’t the foam and plywood cost more than a single sheet of cabinet plywood? I find 3/4 cabinet 5 - 7 ply on sale at HD for 25bucks frequentlyl. Other than weight, I see no advantage to using foam.
Joe Daddy
A few comments that I would disagree with past on past experience.
First, if you’re going to using something like open grid construction with plywood subroad bed, get the plywood. Even 2" think foam will have a tendency to sag over time if not properly supported (about every 18-24"). You also have the difficultly of being able to apply pressure or downward force while fearing that the foam will snap.
Second, I would avoid the WS foam roadbed. It is way to squishy for my tastes. I’ve helped other people who have used it and have seen problems caused by it.
My preference for securing the track is PL construction adhesive. I use it to glue cork road bed to foam and then to glue the track to the roadbed. Works great. If I really needed to I could still remove and reuse the track already laid, but not the cork roadbeed.
jktrains
Make yourself a list of the pros and cons of each method. From that list you can decide what is more important to “you”. You will find people who swear by plywood. Then there are those plywood guys who argue whether or not you need 1/4", 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" or 3/4". For roadbed, as you have already read, some swear by WS rubber, some swear by cork. The there are those who love foam for their layout.
So make a list of each, and assign weighted numbers of what is more important to you.
1 being no big deal, 5 being most important…hopefully this method can work for you, we use it all the time in industry.
Also keep in mind, much of what you read is all good information, and very well intentioned, but much of it is also somewhat biased by personal preference.
I’m sure all these fellows have good results from the various methods described. And here is what worked well for me.
I used the least expensive 3/8 plywood over 1 X 4 framing members spaced on 16 inch centers. I know the plywood isn’t going to sag and it’s actually strong enough to walk on. So it’s probably overkill, but any thiner wood base wouldn’t be very strong.
I covered the plywood with 2 inch closed cell foam so I could dig out the foam to make uneven terrain, rivers and gullies later. I used liquid nails for foam to hold it to the plywood. I made my own graduated length foam spacers to make inclines keeping my grades to 2.5% max. Used plywood on top of some inclines, and foam on top of others.
I used cork roadbed and laid out my track on top of it. When I got it placed right, I marked it out and used cheap latex calk spread very thin to glue down the cork. I weighted it down and sometimes used masking tape, allowed it to dry overnight, and it holds very well. I had to tear up one section later because I changed my track plan a bit, and it came up OK using a putty knife and a long exacto knife to pry and help lift it loose. I was able to re-use the roadbed just fine.
I installed my HO code 100 flextrack as I went along. I got all the main track laid using a few Atlas track nails every so often to hold it in position. I solder every other joiner on oppisite sides of the track. Get your track feeder wires installed next. I try to have a wire or a solder joint to every section of track. Then run a lot of trains of all kinds, and get your track adjusted so your trains run reliably through the turnouts and everywhere. You will likely find some places where it is not quite right and now is the time to fix it.
Remember to cut in your expansion joints about every 8 to 10 feet, especially on straight ru
I use Peco turnouts, so I don’t use machines. However, people have used sheet styrene, a piece of luan plywood and one guy in MR even used Velcro. One day I’d like to experiment with the Velcro, just to see how well it works.
But you CAN use electric machines with Peco turnouts, right? Is there some problem with that?
I model in N scale and use Peco turnouts. To me the main advantage of the Peco turnout is that it has sprung points so you can flip the points with your finger, etc. and they will snap over and stay in place. If you use this method of throwing the turnouts in areas where you can easily reach, you save the cost of the turnout motors and the hassle of having to maintain them. If you need to use turnout motor for those turnouts that are out of reach or in an inconvenient location you can use the Peco solenoid switch machines which have tabs that attach the machine to the underside of the turnout. Then, if you are using 2" thick foam as your banch top, you can cut a hole in the foam under the turnout where the Peco switch machine is attached to the bottom of the turnout and simply place the switch maching in this hole. If necessary, you can use a thin piece of plastic sheeting to disguise the hole so it is less obvious from above.
Bob
Yes, as far as I know. No, no problem.
Personally, I have no current need for a remote controlled turnout. If I did, I’d probably use a manual throw anyway (dowel rods, choke cables, whatever) just to avoid wiring and maintaining it / them.
I guess the exception would be to automatically line up hidden staging tracks.
But again, that’s just my personal preference.