I’m planning on using code 83, Tortoise switch motors, and Digitrax DCC (since I’m very comfortable with wiring Cat5 & RJ45 connectors for bus & tethered handsets). My track plan will have four reversing loops (not sure if that will make any difference in brand selections), and I’m leaning towards power routing turnouts, because I like the idea of electrically isolating sidings by simply throwing a switch and that I can wire turnout switch lights simply by connecting the leads to the tracks – although I’m not sure if DCC makes either (or both) of these points, i.e., power routing turnouts, moot.
Hence, knowing the “givens” that I’m (mostly) set on, I’d appreciate any suggestions as to what brand of code 83 flex track and what brand of turnouts I should consider that will work well together (e.g., the height of the flex track rail is the same height as the turnouts’ stock rails) and would work well in my layout (e.g., turnouts that could be controlled with Tortoises with minimal fuss). Thanks!
If you have the budget, Peco makes good turnouts. They are available in powered-frog or insulated frog varieties. I know the electro-frog’s are power-routing and will interrupt power to a non-selected route, not sure about the insul-frog’s.
I finally decided to use Atlas customline turnouts on my layout. They are significantly less expensive, and so far I’m very happy with them. I did spend some time prepping each one by sharpening the points and wiring 30-gauge jumpers between each point and it’s stock rail.
If you are using DCC, it is not necessary to shut off power to sidings. You can simply park an engine there and run another one. The decoder will draw a small amount of power, more if it’s a sound engine.
Which code 83 flex track do you recommend that works well with the Peco turnouts (i.e., their rails are at the same height)?
I was leaning towards using Micro Engineering turnouts and flex track, as I assumed that they would be guaranteed to line up nicely, but I’ve read good things about Peco in these forums …
Hmm, I do recall someone saying that code 83 Atlas flex didn’t line up well with another manufactures turnouts, but I can’ t find that post now.
The prior posts have most often discussed using Atlas flex track with Walthers(Shinohara) turnouts. There is a 1/32 inch height difference, i.e. the Walthers turnouts have to be shimmed up 1/32 of an inch–on other threads, recc. is just to cut a 1/32 inch styrene sheet around the turnout and place under it.
As I am considering using Micro Engineering flextrack with Walthers turnouts, I wondered what difference there is there in height–didn’t really get that answered at the time. Maybe someone else who’s used this combination will chime in here.
My 2 cents. I use a combination of Peco and ME turnouts (code 83/70), and ME and Atlas flex. Can’t beat the ME in terms of realism. However, coming from somebody that hasn’t put a lot of track down, the ME flex is a bear to work into curves - especially the weathered. Working with the Atlas is a whole different ballgame, and you may find that the small sacrifice in terms of realism (ie, bigger spike heads) is a small price to pay in temrs of ease of installation. In terms of compatibility, some shimming here and there, but I didn’t find it to be a big deal.
What do you mean by “a bear to work into curves”; that it is physically stiff, or that it kinks easily? You’re making me rethink the ME flex track possibility …
Actually, it would be both. If something is too stiff, it’s really to kink it when it finally does bend. It’s like bending tubing - if it’s not done right it will kink.
I use ME in code 55 on my N scale layout and generally don’t have much of a problem. I just have to nail/spike it down more than I would Atlas. In HO I use Atlas code 83 flex and turnouts, and it’s been working out great so far.
I use Atlas with Walthers/Shinoharra turnouts and shimming. Of note, get the NEW DCC friendly switches… otherwise, problems to come with you 0.110 RP 25 wheels and the gap to point distance in the OLD non-dcc turnouts = 0.080 = short!!! I love the NEW W/S turnouts! As for shimming, it is really easy once you get the hang of it.
I have been using the Walthers/Shinohara code 83 track and turnouts and at last count have over 60 turnouts. I did use Atlas code 100 in a hidden staging yard and Atlas code 83 in another yard. The height difference in the tie thickness is easy to overcome as a previous poster noted. BUT one thing I caution you is NOT to use any kind of power routing turnout on a DCC layout.
Back when I started my layout (1995) all of the Shinohara line was power routing so that was what I used. I have since converted to DCC (Digitrax) and have so far replaced about 30 of my original turnouts with the newer Walthers “DCC Friendly” [a.k.a. all live] turnout.
Many of my points and frogs were fed through the Tortoise contacts and there would always be some lag time, or if the points would snag a bit there would be a short, ever so brief, but enough to trip the DCC breaker. After attempting to make the power routing turnouts DCC friendly I wound up having rail gaps all over the place so I just started replacing them.
All things considered I’m very happy with the Walthers turnouts.
I run the same setup (Digitrax DCC, Tortoises etc…) with Atlas flextrack and Atlas customline turnouts. The only exceptions are 3-way and double-slip turnouts. I use Walthers for them. I haven’t done anything special to the Atlas turnouts. With DCC there is less of a reason for power routing. I don’t use it myself. Is your motive power going to more recently manufactured or are you going to have things that were made 20-30 years ago ?
Ed, that’s the first I’ve heard someone mention that you shouldn’t use power routing turnouts and DCC. I’ll have to see what else I can dig up on that … I really liked the idea of parking a DC only engine on a spur that was isolated until I threw the switch to that spur.
Jeff, I will probably be using newer manufactured locos, as I only have 3 old DC diesels and since I’m going to be modeling a 1930s era line they will probalby only be used by my kids.
It sounds like either Atlas/Atlas, or Shinohara/Shinohara unless I want to shim. Hmm, is shimming as easy as simply put a piece of thin plastic across the cork where the last few ties of the turnout will sit?
I’ve never shimmed an Atlas flextrack and Walthers/Shinora turnout coming together. No matter what track you lat there will always be some variation in the rail head heights over the layout and at joints. When that happens I take a small file and lightlky file them until they are even. If you need to shim for some reason, yes, small pieces of styrene will work at the last few ties. Styrene comes in many different thicknesses. Yes, with DCC, I’d lose any thoughts of power routing. It really doesn’t serve much value.