I recently purchased my first airbrush (repackaged badger omni 3000) and air compressor. I found a good deal on a Badger Cyclone 180-1 compresser ($40) and ordered it but it still has not arrived. I have never airbrushed before and didn’t really know much about the ideal psi levels for airbrushing models. I was looking through previous posts and realized that some people recommend a 40+ psi level on their compressor. Well the Badger Cyclone compressor has a maximum running pressure of 28 psi. Would this be enough for basic model airbrushing? I’d like to use both acrylic and enamel paints. It doesn’t seem to have a regulator either.
The PSI setting for your airbrush will vary depending on several factors, the most important is the viscosity of the paint mixture. Most of the airbrushing I do is at 12 to 15 PSI, with some as high as 20. I’ve never worked with acrylics, so I’m not sure what pressures they will require. Even with the larger compressors, they have a regulator which is how you set the pressure that comes through the hose to the air brush. I’ve seen some of the bigger ones selling for $60 to $90 and you can also use them for tire inflation and driving small air tools. The best ones have a pressure tank, and along with the regulator, will give you even, smooth air delivery while spraying paint, unlike some of the smaller diaphram compressors thet have a tendency to “pulse” the air pressure.
28 psi is more than enough. If you have an airbrush that requires upwards of 30 psi, you may be limited in what you can do with it and you’ll probably be disappointed.
I happen to be evaluating a model that does not seem to provide very fine control in the low 20’s It will regulate from 5 to 135 backed by a 6 gallon tank. But the compressor I am looking at may be just too big for model work.
Are we trying to regulate the amount of pressure in the holding tank or in the output line as we are airbrushing?
A regulator is inserted on the output line, in this case, connected to the airbrush. As long as the pressure in the holding tank is above the setting on the output regulator, there is no problem with steady output pressure at the airbrush, which is where it matters. That’s what a regulator does. Most tank type compressors are automatic, controlled by a pressure switch that starts the compressor when the pressure drops to a certain point (usually around 100 PSI) and shuts it off when it reaches the upper pressure limit (around 125 PSI).
I just replaced my Badger Cyclone after about 20 years of use. It worked well with Floquil, Model Master and Accupaints. I never tried acrylics. My new compressor is from AirBrushDepot. I like it better then the Cyclone because it is quieter and has a built-in regulator and moisture trap. I am sure you will be happy with your Cyclone when it arrives. Be sure to work in a spray booth and use personal protective equipment.
Take a look at the Dec 06 Model Railroader for an article “Working with Acrylics”. It talks about airbrushing with acrylic paints and includes a sidebar on safety equipment. If you have back issues, the Nov 2000 has an article “10 Tips for Painting with Acrylics”
An airbrush uses a very small amount of air volume compared to the capacity of almost any commercial compressor and is not a factor. Even the small compressors without holding tanks can supply air for air brushes.
I use a regulator which includes a moisture trap to set my airbrush presure at 20 PSI.
Just about any compressor will supply enough air in SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) to operate an air brush. This factor comes into play with larger air tools to match the compressor’s output to the air tool’s requirements. The SCFM rating of the compressor must be equal to or greater than the tool’s requirement. For example, a tool rated at 2.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI can be operated by a compressor that puts out 5 SCFM @ 90 PSI (actually it can operate two of them).
20 - 25 CFM is all that you should need to airbrush. It depends all depends on the viscus of your paint. Its easier to paint with your acrilic paints than your lacure paints.
As others have said 28 psi. is plenty. The operative word in your research is “some” people. The pressure isn’t a constant. It should be varied based upon the paint being used and the desired effect. Most of the time I use 50% thinned Floquil or ScaleCoat paint and 10-12 lbs of air pressure. For acrylic paints, which I also thin about 50%, I use 12-20 lbs. It seems the Testors paints require a bit more umph. When I get the paint prepared I usually test a few different pressures to see which gives me the control, coating, and surface finish that I desire.
One thing to remember is the “distance” pressure regulator. One really easy way to vary the pressure is to get close or back away from the model. I would think at 40 psi one could be almost two feet from the model. I paint as close to the model as possible to gain coverage control and to limit overspray. Lower pressures also have less chance of forcing paint to penetrate any cracks in the masking. If one gets too far back the paint will begin to dry in the air before it gets to the surface. This can cause tiny globs that don’t spread well and consequently a matte finish, or worse it just won’t stick to the surface. Just one other note - the method I use usually requires 3-4 coats of paint for full coverage.
I have a Husky 5 HP, 13 Gallon compressor which shuts off at 150 PSI. It also has a built in regulator (on the output) which will adjust all the way down to about 2-3 PSI. I can airbrush with it, run an impact wrench, air hammer, inflate a (BIG) truck tire, use a professional paint sprayer, or even an air sander (intermittently, these use a lot of air). I would definately use a moisture trap close to your airbrush, as the air tools are better at dealing with any stray miosture than your airbrush or models (though the air tools should still be properly “dried” and lubed when done). One cycle to 150 pounds should provide enough air (assuming no leaks) to airbrush dozens if not hundreds of models.
So, even one of those “plug in your cigarette lighter” type tire inflators should provide enough air for an airbrush, just make sure to regulate (read: LOWER) the air pressure. Some modelers using a tankless setup use a foot operated switch to turn on/off the compressor when using/not using it.
Well, I’m relieved to know that I won’t be stuck with a compressor that wont meet my basic airbrushing needs. I have another question…Exactly what is a moisture trap? Can I add a moisture trap to a compressor that doesnt come with one built in? Thanks for all the information, guys.
A moisture trap is a filter which removes any moisture from the airflow going to your airbrush (or anything else you have connected). You can buy one for less than the cost of building one. In fact, one is probably all you’ll ever have to get. I bought mine 10 years ago and it still works well.
I am eyeballing one compressor that does not appear to have a moisture trap or filter of any kind on the output. Looks like a 1/4 line coming out of there. If I get this 135 psi bad boy, what should I look for in a Regulator/Filter?
Things like materials, brand? or one unit reg/filter or seperate filter then regulator? OR is it regulator then filter? Decisions.
Truck tires no problem. But I dont want a big compressor and have to get a little one too. I want to buy just one compressor for all things around the home.
I also have a question about water traps and regulators. I was wondering if there are hybrid devices with a regulator/water trap in one. And would I require a gauge if it doesn’t come with one included? Also, what should I expect to pay?
If you’re still talking about the Badger air compressor, it probably doesn’t have a pressure gauge or regulator, and you probably won’t need them. Mechanically, this type compressor won’t develop much more than the 28 PSI that is listed as its maximum.
It came with a regulator and automatic switch (I caught it on sale for $89.99 a couple years ago) I had a water separator on it (put it after the regulator if you decide to go this way), but took it off after a while. I never found any water in the sump, so I didn’t think it necessary. It has a bleeder valve on the bottom of the tank, and once in a while I get a drop or two of water out of this. I even use this in my basement, so the small amount of water the compressor takes out of the air will settle in the bottom of the tank. Remember to bleed it out after use, mainly to prevent rust in the pressure tank.
You might want to check out the rated duty cycle on cheaper low end compressors. If its rated at 35%, which means the air compressor is only running 35% of an hour. It has a thermal device (chip) so it will not start back up after the third or forth cycle, very flustrating to say the least…John
Well, would I still require a moisture trap even though a pressure regulator isn’t necessary? The badger cylcone 180-1 is supposed to have “Internal Bleed” I’m not sure if that has anything to do with a moisture trap…