Just curious about your spline roadbed pictures… Do you think you can post some of them?
Electro,
It’s probably correct to assume that Dr. Jekyll is working furiously “in the laboratory” on his new layout formula. Can’t wait to see pics, Crandell, when you have a chance to take and post them. [:)]
Tom
Yes it must be a secret formula [:D]
Wow, a guy can’t even take the wife and my parents out to a rhododendron garden for a day without the Spline Roadbed Association coming down on him!!! [:O]
I will get a roll of film developed within 36 hours, and post images from a CD…it’s the best I can do.
In the meantime, here is a great and informative site. Notice the drawing/graphic of the spline cross-section? That is how I did it, not using spacer blocks like some do. Joe does it without the blocks, and I like the robust results.
BTW, take a look at the link of the shopping bag scenery technique. I have already begun to accumulate a bunch of them. Instead of cheese cloth, I will use J-Cloth or kitchen wipe towels. They’re stronger.
(Hmmpfff! Dr. Jeckyll indeed…!!) [:D]
http://s145079212.onlinehome.us/rr/howto/splines/index.shtml
Sounds great… Looking forward to your pictures…
Electrolove
- Spline Roadbed Association
Electro, railimages does not seem to be working well. If you send me your email address, I will send you three pix as attached jpeg files.
-Crandell
Okay, I got them to upload. Here they are.
The first is a picture of my yard surface (4X8 sheet of 5/8" ply) with a 1/4" spline section of MDF with the glue squiggled onto it. The side to which it will mate must also have glue in order to get a good bond. You should also press them together somewhat and slide them along each other, back and forth for 3 cm to spread the glue between them.
Next is a section of 6 splines clamped over risers that had previously been screwed onto joists. Place the spine around screws that are driven into the tops of the riser, clamp them, and then raise/lower the splines until your grade is right between risers. Screw the risers at this point. Then, glue two or threes spines at once, clamp them to the riser top screws, and wait about 3-4 hrs before adding the other three splines. The top screws come out when you add the final three splines.
This last picture is the finished product, done in a two-week marathon of gardening, mowing, getting two courses underway at Royal Military College of Canada, and washing glue off my hands. It was too much, and my wife says I have been in a foul mood for days. Of course, this was all a ploy so that she wouldn’t think I was having any fun.
Gotta stay ahead of the wimmin.
Electro, did you see these? (bump)
-Crandell
Yes I have seen them. Seems like you are having fun [:D]
Will you ever go back to another roadbed method?
Thanks for posting your pictures, appreciated.
No, as much as I had a tough time with this method, it is too good to revert to what I had last time. The only caution I can offer you is to make darned sure that your curves will conform to the turnouts you intend to use on them…if any. I have some handbuilt ones that I will have to tweek a bit, or I will have to actually handlay some in place to keep the smooth running allowed by the splines. A lot of work, but why not capitalize on the hard work of building the roadbed in the first place? So, I hope to be running trains later in the summer, if all goes well. I sure miss running them.
This is a means to an end for me. I know that many love building a layout over many months or years as their diversion, but my diversion has always been to watch the trains and to perform switching. I have to build a layout to get there, and it is much like an obstacle for me…I am not a builder.
You have a huge task ahead of you.