I thought I’d update everyone on my particular MR situation; in March I bought a BLI loco after much debate between a Broadway and a Bachmann; I went with the BLI because it was supposed to operate better.
After I bought it, I was instantly impressed with the looks and detail put into the model (for the price). I discovered that it had operating problems; internally the motor wasn’t meshing correctly with the gears. I contacted thier warranty department and sent it out. When I got it back I noted that it operated a whole lot better than it originally did but not as well as I thought it should. When in reverse I heard a popping noise and it operated clunky.
I contacted BLI again and they advised me that I should send it back for a second repair so they could fix it to a smoother operating condition. They found out what I was describing when I said it didn’t operate as well as I thought it should; they repaired it again and shipped it back.
I operated it again after the second repair and it continued to operate clunky in reverse; also when it was going forward I could notice a consistent slack/pull/slack/pull in the couplers of the train. I knew it was not supposed to operate that way, so I contacted the warranty department. They advised me to send it back (a third time) so they can give me a new motor.
Hopefully they find out what I am describing and I won’t have to send it back for a fourth repair.
I am glad that they are helping me with my warranty claim as they are (I have contacted another person that has a similar type of locomotive from the same company and they had very similar problems) and they have not been hesitant in repairing it for me the first two times, however, it begins me to question thier credibility of making locomotives. Hopefully this one I have is just a fluke in the production run and all of thie
I feel for you. Unfortunately, today’s DC/DCC locos seem to be so incredibly complex in their electronics and mechanisms that the old art of ‘tinkering’ with a loco that runs erratically just doesn’t seem to work, anymore.
I hate to sound like one of the ‘old farts’ (which I am), but the days of un-doing three screws, taking the body off and looking at the mechanism and tinkering with it to get the bugs out, seems to be pretty much passe. Today, if the loco refuses to run right, it’s either send it back to the Mfgr, or get a replacement. Sigh. [:(] Too bad, too, because ‘way back when’ (about ten years ago, LOL!), when it didn’t ‘work’, you could usually get in there, find out what was wrong, and with either a soldering iron or set of screwdrivers, get it cured.
Sorry, don’t mean to sound like a Dinosaur, and you really have my sympathies. For myself, one of my DC locos starts to act up, it’s kitchen-table time with the tools. And usually about a ten-minute cure.
Is the BLI a steam loco or a diesel? I know that when they run well, they run REALLY well. But when they don’t, there’s a thousand things that could be contributing to it.
I really hope your third repair is the charm that makes it work for you!
Its nice that they are being good about standing behind their products and trying to make it right for you.
It kind of sounds to me like they are having a problem understanding what the problem is though.Maybe they havent really understood your complaint and they aren’t “seeing” what it is that you are sending it back in for?
Good luck with it.
I can imagine how frustrating this must be for you.
I suspect it’s a steam engine. All steam engine models seem to have a little of that slack-pull going on at slow speeds. I suspect it’s because of the way they’re powered - usually one axle gets power from the motor, and the other drivers get turned by the side rods attached to the powered axles/wheels. (It seems like it may be less of a problem with Mallets, maybe having four sets of side rods each at a different quarter helps smooth things out??)
Anyway, even a very good running steam engine is not going to run quite as well as the best running diesels (like Atlas diesels for example) in my experience.
Daniel, I would have had more than one go back for the third time if I did not do a lot of the repairs my self.
My PCM Big Boy lost it lights early on then started running poorly. Sent it back and was there for 3 months. Repair order stated it had a bad power cord and worm gears where out of aliment. When it came back it was making a clicking sound, I thought it was misaligned side gear. I have the return order number. Before I boxed it up I open the covers of the drive wheels and lubed the heck out of them, no more clicking.
While cleaning the wheels I found I had no power pick up from the engine! BLI/PCM (same company) is sending a new wiring harness for the engine and power cord.
I have 8 PCM/BLI engines, 4 have been sent back so far, 1 I have had to replaces the center tower gear on it 2 times. I am currently waitting on parts for 3 of them, and trying to trouble shoot my Y-6b so they can send me the parts.
There staff is helpful and ready to send parts for folks that want to repair there own. But, should you have to fix a $600.00 engine that only worked 4 hours with out problems?
Got one of the 2-10-4 when first out. First time on track it would short out everything, sent back and returned a month later. I opened the box put on track and still shorted out. Sent back again. Well after four times of send backs I figured out the wheels on the tender were bad and replaced ,now it runs. Also got a 2-10-2, had issues sent back, came back a month later fixed , but all the detailing was smashed and cab cracked. Called them said send back they would look at it, I demanded a new unit, after 2 months I finally got a new unit. Needless to say I will no longer purchase there engines because of poor quality!!
I have to say of my 120 loco’s, these are my only 2 basket cases. Don’t have these problems with any other mfg.
Like everyone else here probably I’ve had a few problems with BLI quality issues over the years and had to cure them on my own (I live in the UK so returns are a pain). As far as the slack taught slack couplers go. I’ve had this in the past on a few occasions. On my BLI Big Boy, PRR T1 and N&W J Class. On all three occasions replacing the traction tyred drivers with plain ones cured it. That’s not to say there is an inherent problem with traction tyres - I got a Blue Line ATSF 4-8-4 at the weekend and no such issues.
What always makes me smile is that in the UK if goods are deffective (unmerchantable I think the term is) then the customer should be refunded. Or the item replaced, and I can’t remember it being much different in the US when I lived there. Imagine if you will phoning Sony to tell them your new flat panel had sound but no picture as soon as you got it out of the box. they wouldn’t say they will send some parts out for you to have a go at fixing it yourself; would they? Or the GAP customer service offer a needle and thread when your brand new shirt had a tear in it straight out of the bag.
It’s our own fault. It’s a tinkerers hobby and one that seems full of people (like me) who suck up dreadful customer service, and the more we do the poorer the product reliability will become.
your problems might be a result of poor back emf programming (if you have LokSound or QSI decoder installed)
Try turning off the BEMF feature. If it is off, try turning it on!
I never had any real problems with my two C&O Texas T-1s (2-10-4). One was BLI with QSI. The other Blueline. The only real problem I had was getting them to go around R22 curves. It was tricky if the trackwork wasn’t perfect. (Which is odd because I managed to get it to go around an R18 once.) They have great “heft.” And they are a favorite in my fleet.
WARRANTEE REPAIRS are Warrantee repairs. They are worth what you pay for - Minimal.
Choices: ONE. Send back ‘Attention Service Manager’ with a note “3RD REPAIR” & describing exactly what you want. What you want may be beond their expertese. Or,
TWO: Send to a ‘good’ repair shop and pay for it, Or, THREE Do it yourself.
WARRANTEE REPAIR goes back to the original guy (who did the work), but now he does it for FREE. GUESS how good his ‘free’ efforts are going to be? Better than the first time? Get the SERVICE MGR. to weigh in. “3rd repair!” flags it.
Sadly, Most ALL service work today is done with ‘flat’ or ‘Book’ rate’s which encourage speed, and non-payment for repeats (they were paid book rate once).
[QUOTE]it didn’t operate as well as I thought it should [/QUOTE] This could be a problem - (your expectations VS the Technition’s). Technitions today are ‘parts’ changers, Not Diagnostitions. If new parts dont do it, forget it. Shops that do good work, are Independents.
SAME is true of Major Appliance repair, automobiles, and plumbing. WHY? (because it’s profitable).
Anyway, even a very good running steam engine is not going to run quite as well as the best running diesels (like Atlas diesels for example) in my experience…
Sounds like you gotten hold of some poor running steamers…
I see steam locomotives beening ran at the club and they’re just as smooth running as any Atlas or Kato diesel.
Here is my story regarding a Blueline engine. I have a Pennsy J1. Bought it in June of this year. I installed a Digitrax decoder and started testing it. Two problems initially, the healight flickered and I also had the very noticeable jerkiness or the slack/pull/slack/pull that someone described. Other owners of these engines, at the BLI forum, stated theirs ran fine but I think they just aren’t looking for it.
So mine went back to BLI and upon return, paperwork enclosed with it stated the headlight was fixed but the “jerkiness/slack/pull” issue was “not observed”. So back to testing and then a new problem was apparent. As the engine ran, just the “chuff” or exhaust would cut out. The engine kept running along with the headlight and all other sounds. As I fiddled with it, I found that moving the wiring harness just behind the plug to the engine would cause the “chuff” to return. My conclusion was that I had a loose connection with a wire attached to the female plug. Wrote to BLI and a replacement plug/harness (tether) was sent. This came yesterday.
I installed the new tether and the engine ran and all sounds were working but now…the engine will stop moving once or twice (in one circuit around my 50’ test loop) and after a few seconds, start moving again at the same speed without my intervention. The chuff also cuts out when it stops but starts again when the engine begins moving.
Before contacting BLI, I was wondering if anyone with a little more DCC time than I’ve had, can suggest a reason for the way this thing is behaving. I’m not new to this hobby, my first engine was an Athearn with rubber band drive.
Well no one has suggested this yet, and I’m sure that it is just a matter of time before someone does, but what you might investigate is giving the wheels and track (especially the track) a good cleaning. I have an engine or two that will do the same “sound cuts out and comes back” thing that you are describing (not BLI and not steam). Run your engine around and note where the hesitation occurs. When you get the hesitation, stop the engine, back it up, clean the track, then go forward again. If it now passes through without a problem, then dirty track was the issue. Note that even though the track may not look dirty to you, there can sometimes be a buildup of something that will cause a problem.
Now this all assumes, of course, that your problem is happening on simple trackwork (straight and curved), not turnouts, crossings, etc. where intermittent short circuits can be the culprit.
Too many ‘Repairmen’ today dont go beyond relacing parts, and with ‘book’ rates, & don’t get paid for removing any parts put in unecessarily.
N.Y. ‘Technitions’ also have a standard going rate, and do liitle more than replace parts the ‘book’ suggests to fix a particular problem.
Many work under a large protective corporate ‘blanket’ where much responsibility is shifted to supervision. Those ‘manning’ the lines have little incentives - except to collect their paychecks. INDEPENDENT repair shops depend on repeat customers. THAT is a BIG difference.
One doesn’t hear many complaints coming from Tony’s, do they.