My shelf layout will be in an 11x25 foot part of my game room.The gameroom is paneled.Three of the walls are against concrete cement blocks.The studs are 1x3 against the concrete and 2x4’s on the other wall.Using 1x2’s,of which I have plenty of,is what I’m considering for my benchwork.The layout will come out 2 feet from the walls and be 4 feet high.I srewed a 1x2 6 inches in lenght verticle against the wall into a stud.Then screwed a 1x2 2 feet long on top of the 6 inch 1x2 horizontilly.Then the 4 foot section was put underneath the 2 foot section vertically and screwed into that.I built 2 sections like this attached by a 1x2 horizontil section 16 inches apart.I put 2 fifty lb blocks on top and it seemed strong.Before I go any farther,I would like some comments whether this will work or not
The discription is not clear as to if the 4 foot 2x2 goes to the floor as a leg or is a diagonal brace. Some place in there you will need some diaganal bracing to keep it stable. I would not trust even 1/2 inch ply as a shelf top to be enough. I would also be concerned as to how the studs are fastened to the blocks, the whole wall could come off the blocks if the studs are not FIRMLY anchored at the top. Walls, as such, are not build for the pressure to “Pull out” as the shelf will cause. A fifty pound block is not enough test for what you will eventualy have, you will be leaning on it sooner or later…
Using 1x2s is somewhat undersized for the benchwork frame. I don’t know the full construction, ply and what thickness, any foam, is this to be bonded as secure unit/shelf.? The strapped conc. wall gives you very little in the way of secureing the framework for sheer side pull. If you build the box frame with 1x3 min and lay on top of a 1x ledger glued and screwed to the wall the entire unit will be very secure, providing that the outer face of the benchwork is vertically supported to the floor. Any angle bracing back to the wall could cause too much side force at the wall attachment. Note the glue and screw- the strapping shot to concrete may alreadt be dried and split, additional screws may cause further splits, so the hold cannot be that trustworthy. Once the shelf frame is set and anchored in place, additional cleats may be added to reinforce the joint between the horizontal ledger and rear 1x3 frame. The style of benchwork construction can be followed on the standard framed walls with less worry.
Bob K.
Sounds like you are using a combination of bracket (to wall) and leg (to floor).
I wouldn.t use this myself but, if that’s your preference…
The 2x2 should be good for legs… so long as it has finished seasoning/stopped warping.
You could run a 2x2 batten along the wall screwing into each stud in the non-block wall and every 12"-18" in the block walls… dependiing in the density of the blocks and how solid the wall is.
I would suggest that the beams (any horizontal load bearer across space is technically a beam regardless of its size - or adequacy - ) … be made of 2.5 x 1 or 3 x 0.75. The work that beams do is to carry the imposed load… i.e. to resist gravity. So you want the material vertically… adding width only adds load of the material itself not increased strength… so (as you probably realise) you’re going to use the thinner boards on edge.
The wall end can sit on the batten (held in position by blocks fixed to the batten rather than to the wall) the outer end will screw to a vertical face of each leg.
It would make sense to both run a 2.5x 1(or 0.75) along the face attached to all the legs and to place a (horizontl) diagonal brace in every 2nd or 3rd space between supports protruding from the wall. (Looked down on it will make a Z). You could brace all spaces if you think that you will lean hard against the layout often.
I’m not sure what surface material you are using. Whatever it is it is like the deck on a footbridge or boat. It only needs to be thick enough to support the load on it between supporting the beams it sits on.
So…
1 How many of your locos weigh 100lbs?
2 The more deck there is the more it has to hold itself up and be held up… but it isn’t doing much other than that.
3 Are you planning to use the structure to support your own weight when you reach over to get to the back of that 2’ deep board?
This would not be a good idea.
Sounds like you guys are over building!
Go look at any kitchen cabinets for ideas. Typically, kitchen counter tops are 26" deep and made of particle board with Formica laminated on top.
In a finnished Game Room, consider going to Lowes or Home Depot and looking at their un-finnished cabinets. While they are only 34" high, they will make a good base for placing bench work on top of.
If you don’t want to line the whole wall with cabinets, they could be spaced 8’ to 10’ apart and bench work could be bridged across.
If you want to get fancy and have a lot of storage line the walls [:D]
Just a thought for a solid base without a lot of work and it would look good as well.
It’s not overbuilding, just being careful not to build a beautiful finished layout only to have it cra***o the floor because someone leaned on it. Drywall screws into solid studs will hold without a doubt, but old seasoned/ dried and split 3/4" strapping is another matter.
I think some research and brain picking is in order before jumping into a project.
Bob K.