hi everyone
I have been doing some reasearch on this form about shelf bench work. I have a 1011ft space to work with and want to go the shelf layout route. I have read several posts on a pull out module that you can use that slides in. Then as your skills get better you can remove it and do it over. I have read the latest mrp and Iain Rice article on shelf style layouts and figure there has got to be a easier way than the puzzle route. Any input in my problem would be greatly appriecated
August
Hi gp30.
I am using sturdy shelf brackets found at Home Depot with hollow doors used for closets. It seems to work for me. The doors are 80" tall but can be cut down to allow for smaller sections for ease of building. Mine are 18" wide. I think they start at 12" and 18" to 24" would be max I would concider.
Hi kenworthkid
Thank you I looked at my local home improvement center today they started at 45 dollars for the 18in ones. Maybe I am looking at the wrong ones these were made out of hardboard thanks August
gp30,
Got mine in the seconds bin. $10 each. Small scuff marks on one side, but whose going to seee it under your railroad empire. Brackets were on sale also. Got the sturdy ones with the double hooks in the verticle track.
kenworthkid
I used heavy duty brackets I purchased from Home Depot at a reasonable price. I believe that they were made by Stanley. Here’s a link to the Stanley web site. Several sizes are available and I used two or three different lengths depending on the width of my shelf which varies.
My layout is going up in a 10’ x 13’ spare bedroom. I lag bolted these brackets to the wall studs using two 2 1/2" or 3" lag bolts each and they are sturdy!
I’m also going the shelf standard route with a 15" shelf layout.
I was planning on building it like this person did here:
http://www.reganspace.com/Trains/bench%20work%20and%20backdrop.html
with probably 1/2 plywood screwed straight to the brackets (either leveled with shims or I’ll file down the bracket bottom to level the whole bracket).
Should I be concerned at all about really using some kind of framing? I know good framing is always recommended, but with standards on 16" centers with a 14.5" bracket (for a 15" shelf) Iwould think that should provide decent support and prevent any kind of sagging between brackets.
Hi Nolatron
I was doing some research on another form there was a guy doing it that way he was using 24in shelf brackets and screwing the plywood straight to the bracket.I believe he was a contractor. He didn’t seem to have any problems with doing it that way. I wonder how he was going to attach his fascia board and hide his wiring.
August
Hi again Nolatron
I just checked out your website. The modeller that I was talking about who was using the plywood on brackets was you. It looks ok to me.give us a progress report as time goes by.
August
The above link actually isn’t me, but a site I found as well (edited the post to clear that up). It seems it should hold up rather well, but like most, this is my “final layout” so I wanna be sure it’ll still be standing come 5-10 years, heh.
Here’s a rough sketch of how I’m thinking the layout will go.
1/2 playwood will be secured directly to brackets at 16" spacing. At most, only 4"of plywood will overhang a bracket, so that shouldn’t pose a problem either for sagging.
Staging got dropped a lot, giving me about 7-9" of clearance under the main level. I’m not sure how long the front valance will be either, but I drew it in as 12". this would probably be secured using glue and “L” brackets attached to the underside of the mainlevel.
I would like to thank all who replied to my query about shelf style layouts but especially the kenworthkid for suggesting the hollowcore doors and the bargin bin I check my local home improvement stores bargin bin today and tomorrow will be purchasing a hollowcore door for my shelf layout can get it for 10$ Thanks again to everyone
August