I’m approaching the point of having more rolling stock than fits on my 5’ x 10’ layout. I have lots of built-in bookcase (10-1/2" deep) shelves in the room, and thought I’d put preferred extra items there for display and access (rather than box away).
My initial inclination is to make stacked (height-wise) tracks using increasing narrow plywood strips with flextrack added. I have lots of extra 5/8" plywood, so comments on depth of layers (2" or 2-1/2"?) and height of layers (5/8" or 1-1/4"??) would be welcome, as well as other suggestions.
I once had and still do,have a ‘‘Gun Cabinet’’,that I used for that purpose,not only trains,but other Models as well…I put different size shelves in it,to accommodate the various size Models,the shelves were stained to match the cabinet…The most important thing I liked about it,when the door was closed it kept out any and all dust,it even had lights in it…If you are a fair craftsman,consider making one of your own with a plexiglass door…
If you plan to use the shelves to cycle individual cars on and off the layout, you need to ensure adequate clearance to reach your fingers in and pick up cars without disturbing their neighbors. Otherwise, you’ll be knocking things around. 2" is probably too close and 2.5" might be barely enough. I’d test things first before cutting wood. You’ll most likely only get either 3 or 4 shelves deep to work. Squeezing in 5 will be very tricky to use in practice, unless you will be using the shelves for display only and will start stacking them in from the back forward, then not disturbing them unless you reverse that stacking process.
I also would not make each level too much higher than the one in front. . If you knock another car, while reaching for one in back, you don’t want to start a rolling stock avalanche.[:(!][:O]
I would consider some sort of low barrier or clear plastic shelf front, so if the front row does get knocked the next stop isn’t the floor.
I’m not getting any less clumsy with age, so maybe that sounds too careful. On the other hand, better safe than sorry is my motto now.[A]
Instead of placing models on shelves one at a time, I run entire cuts, or short trains, into cassettes. Then I place the entire cassette collection onto wall brackets for storage.
The biggest advantage is that the rolling stock is untouched by (clumsy, arthritic) human hands, so fine detail and fancy paint/weathering are not at risk. Also, the process is a LOT faster than moving one unit at a time.
My cassettes are lengths of narrow steel stud material, with flex track secured to the inside (rain gutter style) Using latex caulk, it takes me about five minutes to cut a length of steel and caulk flex to the inside. Some have rerailers, most don’t.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with, “Off-layout staging”)
May I suggest, if space is a problem, angle your tracks towards the front of the cabinet / shelf at about a 45 degree angle or less. A molding at the front edge would keep them from rolling off. This way you would get many more into your cabinet although they wouldn;t be as noticeable.
This shelving unit was built from 1/2" oak plywood to store locomotives. It has reached its capacity and another is needed. Unfortunately I don’t have enough wall space to use this solution for rolling stock. The extras reside in storage containers.
