I got some farm equipment but its all shiny, ya know that plastic look?
Anyway whats a good way to weather it?
(I’ve weathered cars but not buildings. Loco’s should be clean in my op)
Thanks
I’ve heard that Dullcote by Testors does a good job of taking the shine off plastic stuff.
Get some dirt and grime colored water-based model paint. Dilute it and apply to the farm implements with a brush, letting it dry between coats until you get the desired effect.
If the models are shiny, slick plastic, hit 'em with a layer of dullcoat (per Roadtrp)and THEN add a wa***o 'em (per cacole). Otherwise, the weathering wash won’t go where you want it to, and most will just run off the models.
Don’t forget to make the tires good and muddy!
All the above info is great. If I can suggest a publication that will really expand your skills in dealing w/ structures, locate a copy of Dave Frary’s book “222 Tips For Building Model Railroad Structures” - copy I have was published in 1989 by Blue Ribbon Models.
This book covers structures made out of all materials-wood, plastic, resin, plaster, metal, paper, etc. It includes a chapter specific to weathering, as well. Frary is a master at realistic, understated scenery and how structures are part of that scenery and compliment an overall railroad theme.
There are lots of weathering materials available on the cheap-finely sifted dirt and clay, ashes, chalk, pastels, pumice, rottenstone, ets. – all of which can be ‘fixed’ in place w/ Dullcoat or another matt aerosol spray. Various washes made out of alcohol and India ink, diluted paints, ‘dirty’ solvent left over when cleaning brushes - be careful and test on an inconspicous place first because some solvents like lacquer will craze some plastics (although that can be desirable to depict rusting gutters, etc.),
Suggest that you try using either a base coat of a solvent-based paint (enamel, pref.) and then weather w/ an acrylic/water-based paint wash, or vice versa. If you start w/ an acrylic/water-based paint you could also top coat w/ a lacquer. With care, a lacquer can be lightly sprayed onto bare plastic and slowly build up a finish w/out crazing. It can be tricky painting lacquer over an enamel-paint may not adhere and attack enamel coat. Remember - enamels dry from the inside out while lacquers are a ‘hotter’ paint, usually much thinner per coat and dry almost immediately upon application.
I always lay down a fairly thin spray coating of a primer before painting and weathering.
Primers - avail. in white, light and dark gray, flat black and oxide red are available in plastic friendly sprays from Krylon - I’d only use these large aerosols on larger structures; Testors makes an ex
Dust with some powered chalks and then seal with dullcoat. Actually some hairsprays do almost as well!
Another tip for plastic structures is to paint the interior black or aluminum. Much of what makes plastic look fake is the light that can shine through, and painting the inside gives it a more solid look
Dave Nelson
You can also break up ‘empty look’ of interior by implying rooms by adding scraps of plastic sheet, cardboard or even plain index cards-my favorite mat’l because it’s practically free and accepts light coats of spray paint. You could even draw doors, stairs, pictures, furnishings, etc w/ colored pens and pencils on the index card material. Some wrapping papers and even gum wrappers can be used for ‘wallpaper’ material. On 2 or more story structures, add a floor using a sheet of plastic - don’t forget to paint the bottom (ceiling) white and the top (floor) a suitable flooring color.Let your imagineering run wild!