I need to make straight cuts in the cast tank; my hacksaw wanders. Is there something similar to a (woodworking) backsaw to cut metal?
Thanks-
Mike
Since the tank casting is a non-ferrous metal a razor saw should work. Xacto and Zona and others make them. They resemble a miniature backsaw and cut a reasonable straight line but slowly in metal.
Joe
Years back, I started to modify a couple fuel tanks on 2 GP40’s. Just couldn’t stand that “Brick” w/ slots hanging down between the trucks. I did most of the major work w/ a drum cutter in a dremel.
A milling machine would be the best and safest to cut the casting. You could use a chop saw w/ metal blade, but do use caution and care when clamping against the fence.
The casting of those Rocco chassis is very brittle. I had 2 bolster crossmembers break, and not from any real rough handling,
Once all the extensive work was done to chassis and shells ( Smokey Valley Stanchions to boot), Atlas released the first Red Box amazingly detailed GP40
Are you trying to shorten the tank or reshape the sides?
yes
Bob K is correct about taking care with the frame ends and bolsters.
There are a couple of ways you can go. The easiest way would be to take the frame to a small tool and die or machine shop.
As far as the hacksaw method, you need a new blade mounted in a very rigid saw frame. Blades with fewer teeth make a cleaner cut and more teeth produce a faster cut. Lubricate the blade with oil. A miter box would make it easier if you can swap out the blade for a metal cutter.
The real key are some good metal working files to clean and true up the cut afterwards. The larger and heavier the better. A large aggressive file will straighten up a cut with a little work. The files can also be used to shape the tank contour, if desired. Use a smaller file as you get the shape closer. The slot can be filled with automotive bondo and cover with lots of primer.
Use Wahl’s clipper oil as a lubricant, it’ll help move the saw blade easier with fewer jerks and stops. You don’t have to get it perfectly smooth, you can cap the end with some styrene glued on with epoxy and then sand and file to shape.
So, what about fabricating a frame (out of, say, brass) and fashioning a properly shaped fuel tank, rather than trying to work the casting?
Mike
I would use a band saw myself.
If you are just trying to fill the slot up the side of the tank, use JB Weld instead of putty. Putty has an annoying habit of shrinking over time.