Yesterday I sold all my Diesels “Which were Bachmann.” Then I was wondering what Diesels would fit along side Mantua Steam from the 1990’s-2000’s.
What I am Looking for is this standard.
Does anyone make locomotives like that?
If I understand you correctly, you are looking for Diesel with a diecast body, a rugged drive train, separately appied metal handrails, but simple and cast-on detail, so you won´t have to exercise too much care when handling the locos.
Sounds very much like the good old Varney models from the 1950s to me.
I am afraid you won´t have that available new these days.
Out of the scores of choices out there. I would venture to say you might want to look at some of the earlier Bowser/Stewart locomotives. I presume you are looking at HO?
Many Bowser models fit your requirement list, some have a very smooth and easy to repair/maintain Kato drive and the details are basic but can be upgraded as you see fit. (Prices at their site are MSRP, street price is more realistic).
http://www.bowser-trains.com/history/locoindex.html
I’ve had dozens of Stewart, which was then absorbed into Bowser, locomotives and they are definitely a step-up from “most” Bachmann locos, although there are some decent Bachmann locos in the “Spectrum” line. I have had very few mechanical issues with them and they sre still pulling and running smoothly.
Their newer line is the "Executive "series and these have added details, thus cost, but you can often find the original Bowser locomotives offered directly from them or at auction sites and train shows.
Their F units don’t have handrails applied but there are several “dress-up” kits out there with wire grab irons. The hood diesels do have plastic handrails but I have found them to be pretty robust and spares are reasonable to the point that you can keep replacements on hand if needed. I have many of their Alco Century locomotives and I don’t believe I’ve ever had a broken handrail.
Kadee couplers are easily installed and in the case of the F- series, Kadee makes an adapter pocket that is quite servicable. https://tinyurl.com/yboglolc
[2c]
Cheers, Ed
Stewart F units with Kato drives. That makes up the bulk of the STRATTON AND GILLETTE transistion era, 1954, diesel roster.
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They do not have hand rails, but the bodies are dimpled for the Walthers F unit dress up kit handrails.
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Separately fitted metal handrails: You need to do it yourself, but it is easy.
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Simple Detail: If you mean the cast on detail on the shells, it is very good and durable.
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Good pullers: THE BEST!
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Transition Era: Yes.
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Can accomidate any coupler: Easy conversion to Kadee with the #450 adapter kit. What other coupler would you need?
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Does anyone make locomotive like this: They have not been made in years, but they are easy to find on eBay and train shows.
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-Kevin
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Try Atlas Trainman. They have a good drive with great paint, handrails but no other detail.
Watch Walthers for sales on Mainline and Trainline engines. They are cheaper than expensive Proto models because they are less detailed, but have the same drives. Trainworld’s and M.B. Klein often have them discounted, too.
Why did you get rid of your Bachmann engines? The newer ones are better than those made just a few years ago.
I was going to ask the same, unless it was the old train set type with the pancake motors, then I understand.
Mike.
The older Proto 1000 F3 engines were very good runners and pretty decent looking and basic detailing.
While Bachmann has made improvements to older models, if having a basic shell that is somewhat close fidelity, from what I’ve seen the Bachman F7A still has the same flaws as the original Bachman Plus.
The normally forgiving MR reviews of that F7A shell pointed out the following (from memory):
The batton strip on the pilot bottom justified but should have been center justified.
The phase details were a mix of late and early, which probably did occur on some F7’s in the 1960’s as parts were cannibalized from some F units of a different phase and put on other F7’s. But the main point here is the phase details were not conventional or typical, which is not a good thing for most.
IMO, probably the best bang for the buck are the older Stewart F units, which ave the silky smooth KATO chassis and a pretty good shell representing several phases of F3’s, two phases of F7 (early and late) and F9’s. They are heavy, run smooth and quiet and have a good shell, and can be found in the $50 - $70 price range, which these days is a good deal. Sure, I see some on Ebay for insane prices but just leave those be.
Sounds like Athearn blue box kit locomotives. Athearn doesn’t make them anymore but you can find plenty of them at train shows or on eBay. Walthers Trainline is another choice except they have plastic handrails.
Bachmann’s FAs/FB-2s are good pullers and have seperate handrails (I think they are plastic, but mine are pretty durable). They’re just a bit late for transition era, though, as the FA-2s were produced from late 1950. Train World sells them DIRT CHEAP – as low as $79 for FAs with sound and DCC (!) and $20 (!!) for DCC-ready FBs. Not the best pullers, but at those prices you can put together an A-B-B-A set pretty inexpensively.
If you’re willing to buy used…
Stewart FTs and F3s are probably your best bet for transition era. You should also be able to dig up some old Stewart (or newer Bowser) Baldwin switchers and road-switchers.
If you’re buying used, Life Like made Fairbanks-Morse Erie Builts (l1945-49) and C-Liners (1950-54). The Eries don’t have seperate handrails, the Consolidateds do but they are plastic. They weigh a ton and pull like crazy. I recently bought a bunch on eBay and am looking for more. Some asking prices are crazy, but I’d hold out for $50 or less plus shipping (I paid $60 for an A-B set of Eries).
Despatch Hobbies in Rochester has a healthy stock of E-R models RF-16 Sharks, A-units only, which they sell for $55. Simple detail but no seperate handrails and the coupling distance is huge. I’m still debating whether to pick up any.
Hornby/Rivarossi made a FANTASTIC model of a U25C (recently, not the old ones from the 1970s). There’s a guy on eBay selling them DCC ready for $75 and with ESU LokSound for $115. They have metal handrails with (prototypical) wide stantions and will pull tree stumps from the ground. Probably way too new for you, but if you’re curious, search eBay for a seller called VRCHobbies.
HTH
Aar
No not Diecast Diesels I am okay with Plastic diesels. I want “metal handrails”
Because I can’t use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago.
Well, I’ll second Lone Wolf’s comment on Athearn Blue Box diesels. Sturdy metal hand rails, a little over sized, but strong, cast on grabs, which can be replaced with real grabs, and many GP’s and early SD’s to choose from, although you have to find them on Ebay, and other trading sites, and train shows that have small vendors tables. Ebay always has some.
They are great runners, easy to “overhaul” and keep running good, and easy to install DCC.
You can put on whatever coupler you want. I’m not sure who your talking about with the Sergent couplers, you’ll have to learn how to “quote” when you post, so the rest of know who you referring to.
Yellow box Atlas would work just as well as Athearn, excellent runners and pullers, and also good for DCC conversion. Find the Atlas yellow box locos made in Japan, and you’ll probably have a Kato drive train, which is great! You’ll find them the same places you find Athearns.
I guess it depends on what you want, EMD or the Alco’s and models that Autonerd is talking about, and what purpose you want them for, switchers, road switchers, road diesels, etc.
It sounds like you want something manufactured in the 90’s or early 2000’s ? to go with Mantua steamers, representing just before and during the tranision era?
Mike.
http://www.sergentengineering.com/
Hope that helps, Ed
Thanks Ed, I know about Sergent couplers, they look great, but I was referring to:
I wasn’t sure what loco someone had mentioned that had Sergent couplers. Unless I totally miss read something, which happens with me [swg]
Mike.
Well I own a Couple of Mantua Mikados from the Late 90’s/2000’s, a General from the 70’s, a Shifer from the 60’s, and a Saruka Docksider.
The Diesels can be from recent years. I’ve been thinking of Adding on Walthers Mainline Diesels.
I also should note I am using Mainline Frieght cars as well.
That would be a fine choice. I wasn’t total sure what age of locomotive you had in mind.
Than the newer Atlas, such as the Trainman line would also be fine, along with some other manufacturers.
Mike.
Well, MRC bought and I believe still sells the old line of Mantua metal F3s. Crude in details but certainly rugged. A colleague at the club has one, with DCC, and it runs and pulls well…
Simon
Maybe I’m the odd one out here, but I don’t know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don’t really see as worthwhile.
Just my two cents though. [:P] I’m curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines.
Not trying to speak for the OP, but, he makes it clear in his opening post about what he’s looking for.
Sure, all the new stuff is great, but maybe he doesn’t want the hassle of fine detail parts breaking, thin and fragile handrails, and all of the special care that’s needed in handling some of the super detailed products of today.
I get his point. I bought a BMLA box car, and the first that happened, just getting it out of the box, I broke a piece of the very fragile break rigging off, next, while running it a train, one of the coupler cut levers came loose, and caused a derailment.
I get his point about not wanting all of that.
Also consider the transition era. That’s F’s, GP7, Alcos, etc. NOT Tier 4’s, or SD45’s, etc.
Just my view.
Mike.