I’ve got a few engines, some at least 10 years old, and none are “dcc ready” or equipped.
Basically, what’s the simples decoder to pick up and install in these things? A couple dash 9’s, an FA-1, a GP38-2, and I might try the little plymouth switcher I have. I’ve got an 0-4-0 and an 0-6-0 that I think might be impossible to put 'em in though.
A Digitrax DZ 123 is pretty easy and generic, but for the smaller loco’s you might go with a Lenz Gold or a Train Control Systems M1 decoder.
Oh, and BTW, if you can put a decoder in one of these, you can get a decoder in any N scale loco!
http://www.trainbuddy.com/Reference/Decoding%20Engines/N440.htm
Good luck. You will need a dremel tool and a good set of saftey goggles.
David B
Steady hands, optivisor, and patience.
Take a look at Train Control System’s website. They have install photos for N & HO locos using mostly wired decoders. www.tcsdcc.com
Seriously, the principles are always the same, isolate the brushes, hook up pick-ups, motor, and lights. All done. The trick is almost always where the heck to decoder is going to fit. That’s where an online search can be very helpful. The FA-1 is a good place to start, in my opinion. It’s relatively easy, pretty low risk, and good practice.
If you have to connect directly to the brush caps of the motor, NEVER try to solder them in the assembled motor. Carefully remover the brush caps, they’ll come out with gentle prodding with a jewellers screw driver, and set the internal pieces (tension spring and brush) in a safe place. Solder the decoder leads to the caps, then re-assemble the spring and brush into the cap and re-insert it into the motor. Always use a non acid flux and solder. The flux will clean the surface and help make a good solder connection.
Also, mark the motor when removing it from the chassis. If you get top and bottom mixed up, the loco will run in reverse while the head light is on. and vise versa.
As mentioned above, you’ll need to make room in the chassis for the decoder and in some instances locate an LED for the tail light. You can usually modify the forward light board to work with the decoder, but the rear one usually needs to be discarded to make room for the decoder.