Having mocked up a 2ft x 8ft module using 2in foam and wood, I find the cost quickly approaches $70 at Home Depot pricing. Clubs often suggest plywood for the girders and joists [see the B&SW Constuction (updated 9 Jan 2010) thread as an example]. I estimate my costs drops to $40 not including cost of cutting.
As I do not have a wood working shop with table saw available (nor do I have a convenient spot to set up saw horses and then slice with a hand held power saw), where does one go to have the plywood cut into nominal 3 or 4 inch wide strips?
Thanks
Alan
PS For the hollow core door fans (not that many here I think) the cost is about $42 with 1x3s added at the ends for means to join doors and as anchor points for the legs.
Also, the above costs do not include leg assembles.
Most big box stores will cut plywood for a dollar or two a cut, with one or two cuts free. So if you want to cut the entire sheet into strips (1x2 and 1x4), that would be about 16 cuts so about $15-30 depending on how much they charged.
Have you thought about maybe two 2x4 or 2x6 modules instead? “Module” implies poratbility and 2x8 is really an unhandy size and difficult to manuever and transport. I have always found 2x6 to be much more transport friendly.
I’m not sure what stores you have available to you but the big box stores will make a cut or two for you when buying a piece of plywood.
Now there is something else you may look into. Metal studs and their other components, channels etc. Metal studs are cheap an can be cut with a pair of snips. They are not heavy to carry up stairs and such. One draw back though, you may end up bleeding. [%-)] And when running wires through them you may want to run tape around the wire and then tape it to the metal. I’m sure you will get other suggestions.
Have fun [:D]
Lee
PS: the little 1/8th x 3/8ths inch screws that are used are self tapping just an electric screw driver and no power saw required. You could drop a piece of two inch foam board on top so no plywood needed.
A couple thoughts on keeping benchwork costs down.
I buy dimensional lumber like 1 X10’s and rip it down into 2 X whatever lengths. Saves a few dollars over buying 1 x 2"s and I get straighter lumber. But I do it on my own table saw.
I think you really need a “true” lumber yard to cut the plywood into strips. Not too many exist anymore and they will charge by the cut, and will not guarantee the cuts to be straight. They usually post a sign saying cuts to within 1/2" on 8 foot cuts.
The best option would be to find a cabinet/carpentry shop. Explain to them what you are doing, and if you find the right guy, they may do it for $0-10.
Even better option, ask around. A local carpenter, tradesman, or a woodworking hobbiest, maybe your neighbor might be able to help you out. Even post in Craigslist “need plywood cut”. You may find someone local who could rip that down for a six-pack and a handshake.
I use the term in it’s construction sense, not a N-Trak or other club sense. There is a relatively straight run from the train room to the basement hatch should I ever sell the condo.
Size doesn’t really change the price per unit however.
Being without power tools, consider buying 2 foot by 4 foot plywood handy panels. Use furring strips as a border and build up terrain with the foam sheets. I cut a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in half with a hand saw when I was in your shoes.
My layout utilizes 'domino" sections constructed of plywood. The layout pictured below was constructed several moves ago in an apartment using a battery (12v) trim saw and drill. My small town lumber yard ripped 3/4" plywood sheets into 1x4 lumber and cut my 1/2" plywood tops to size (18" x 72"). The domino sections sit on 2"x2" pocket legs. The sections are bolted together with 1/4" bolts. The layout has been moved and reconfigured several times. When I moved into a new basement (home) I had a layout ready to go, with nothing wasted. I am curently constructing a large around the walls layout and the existing domino sections will be incorporated into the new layout.
Hi Lee
It’s not the top I am thinking about, but the framing. The cost figures include the $20 (approx) 2inch foam topper (with a 1/4in luan base - not needed with hollow core doors).
I just noticed this morning in Lowes the first two cuts are free each additional cut is .50 cents I would definitely get 3/4 plywood flooring the cheapest grade and have them ripped into 1x4 pieces as they are much stronger and straighter then dimensional lumber, When you break down the cost it’s much cheaper using plywood.
As far as size goes - 2x8 actually isn’t hard to move at all, if the legs come off. I built my layout in sections that are 2x4, but I didn;t cut the foam over top so when I moved I left it together in 2x8 sections. Minus legs it went through every door and stairway - up to the third floor in my new place. ANd there were some tight clearances - I don’t even have a full-size couch, it’s really a love seat, and it had to come in the front window over the porch roof. I had to cut my bed in half and put it back together with mending plates. Yet the 2x8 layout, about 6" thick, came in with no problem.
It’s a shame, but before I retired I used to haul 1 or 2 dozen hollow core slab doors to the construction dump quite often. I did find out that it was easer to frame out a basement job with metal studs because you could pick up a bundle of ten and slide them through a basement window. Lower cost than wood too. I can see making a ladder shape top and legs with the “U” channel and a couple of studs. Joists 16" apart would support 2" foam. If you need an easy attach point glue a small block of plywood ETC. to the metal or foam. Just my [2c]
I wouldn’t. Cheap, flooring-grade lumber isn’t strong/stable enough when cut into narrow strips for either framework or subroadbed. So, I’ve always used cabinet-grade plywood.
Something else to consider before letting the “Big Box” stores rip the plywood for you:
Those panel saws that you see in the stores take a lot of abuse from the “professionals” that work there. I wouldn’t trust them to be able to produce 2 pieces cut to the same size or straight.
When using plywood as framing for the benchwork, you have to be very careful how you join the pieces of wood. Running a drywall screw into the end plys of the piece you’re attaching will produce a very weak joint and my also split the plys of the workpiece. Pity you aren’t closer…I’d be happy to help you get your benchwork built right!
Home Depot is charging $3.85 per 8ft 2x4 metal stud or about $14 per section (module) plus the luan plywood and 2in foam for a total cost of about $36.
DON’T do this! Do not use the cheapest grade playwood! It will warp and twist on you. It has voids in the plywood and you will not be happy with the end result. Use a good quality, cabinet grade plywood. It won’t have voids, will have more plys which equals more strength and stability.
Second, don’t have Lowes, HD or the big box stores cut the plywood into strips using their panel saw. The blades are typically dull which will splinter the wood. You will not get a consistent width board. Each cut will be slightly different due to the way the panel saw cuts.
The best suggestion given is to go to a cabinet shop. Someone who does custom carpentry and woodworking and have them cut what you need. Cost? Who knows - but you’ll end up with a consistent width plank which is what you need. I built all my benchwork from 3/4" cabinet grade plywood cut on my radial arm saw. I only had the Big box store cut in half to make it easier to manage thru the saw.
Don is correct on each item in his response. ALWAYS predrill from your holes. One thing I’ve been using to build my benchwork is pocket screws when attaching two pieces of plywood strips at an angle. This avoids screwing into the ends of the ply and provides a better joint.
OK home Depot may not be the place to buy the materials. It has been a while [:-^] since I bought metal studs but at the time they cost a little over half the wood studs. I don’t think you would need the luan. Analyze the suggestions and make your own design.
Group discussions will always stimulate the old brain cells. [:-^]
