I just got this swicher for $30 somthng
but all I know is that its a yard swicher
with its slope back for better veiw in reverse
but what is it 0-6-0 or are trucks missing (besides the tender truck)
KEN
Elementary my dear Watson! The model is of an early Baldwin 0-6-0 switcher and was imported from Japan by International Model Products circa 1958. Nothing missing except for that rear truck on the tended. And, hey, how about that coupler on the rear of the tender? Don’t see them much any more.
CNJ831
thank you Cnj
'that looks like a coupler from the UK
is it a usa engine? a shifter thanks for the info
guy sead it was a Kit, he never ran it.
K
Baldwin switchers are an American prototype (though with little modification I bet that it could be made to look Canadian or European). The coupler looks like the old “hook” coupler from some of the early American Flyer trains (though I doubt that it was exclusive to the AF line).
I believe that that coupler is what’s called a “Baker” coupler–why, I don’t know. Back in the early '60’s when I bought my first HO steam engine, it came with these couplers. It was a Tenshodo cast metal 0-6-0T–a real sweatheart as long as you added an extra pickup wiper for the front left driver.
Yours looks like a very nice loco, too. Have fun.
Ed
Ed gets a cigar with that ID. There aren’t an awful lot of hobbyists around these days that can recognize the bizarre-looking old Baker couplers…they were already old-fashion 45 years ago!
CNJ831
I had to do it !
I removed the paint from the 0-6-0.
I still need to do the drivers, but I was not sure this old locomotive can take it.
how can I do it ? guess I have to take it all apart.
I think that old baker coupler is cool, but I think I will try to replace it with a kadee.
here are a few shots of her now.
Ken
Ken,
I would love to see pic’s and a post on how you clean those drivers/the bottom!!! I am always thinking of doing the same myself, but alas ne’er have done it! Good luck.
Brian
Ken–
That’s a little cutie–haven’t seen those Baker couplers since John Allen’s Gorre and Daphetid photos from the mid-fifties, LOL!
I can’t tell from the photo whether or not you added a second truck to the tender, but if you’re looking for good brass trucks–Cal-Scale makes a nice arch-bar tender set.
If you need to clean the driver treads, I’d use alcohol or nail-polish remover and a Q-tip–don’t use anything abrasive on them, old as that model is, there may not be much plating left on the treads. And if the treads are worn down to brass, you might want to consider installing some Tomar pick-up shoes on the loco and tender–it’ll improve the running qualities considerably.
Tom [:)]
hello tom
thats the funny thing with this little gem, no wheel wear.
guess it was a shelf queen
I did add a cast truck but it looks out of place
the brass truck thats here is sweet very fine detail
K
45 years ago Baker couplers were standard issue on Japanese RTR (tinplate) HOj freight cars, rather like the horn-hook here in the US. I still have a boxful from cars I equipped with Kadees, (due to the geometry of the Bakers, the replacement Kadee is a #6,) and a few pieces of rolling stock that still have them installed (hangar queens that never had a place to run until now.)
Japan imported a lot of American locos in the late nineteenth century. It’s possible that the prototype for this brass beauty was actually used in Japan, and the model might be built to 1:80 scale. That’s the case with the Tenshodo 0-6-0T. (I still have mine. It’s 47 years old, has the original motor and can still pull like a mule.)
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Hey, Ken! That’s a little beauty, all right. Disassembling the running gear is easy with these old brass locos, as long as the drivers aren’t sprung (and I seriously doubt these are). Just start by removing the boiler (2 or 3 screws - one under the cylinders and 1 or 2 on the cab backplate or under the cab). Then remove the side rods , then pull the cover plate. Just remember to keep track of which wheels go on which side of the engine. Insulated drivers on the fireman’s (left) side. On those side rods - the protrusions on the bottom of the rods at the crankpins can be filed off. They cast them that way so you could use the rods on either side of the locomotive. They represent lubrication cups and should only be on the top side of the rods.
Have fun! You can make that into a pretty sweet little loco!
thanks for all the info on the baldwin slope back
gmcrail I think I will take your advice and file off the bottom
I will have to find the proto type
she has nice cast parts on here ’
hmm 1:80
I love the simple quality
K
hey shadow GMC was correct the drvers section was very easy
here are a few photos
ken