Sluggish Locomotive--what can I do?

I’ve got a F40PH by Walthers that’s running erratically. When I turn the throttle, the engine pulls slowly, builds speed, then just kinda dies. I’ve had this engine for less than two years and it was operated on a limited basis up until recently. I’m wondering what the problem might be? I looked over the track sections to make sure their are no connectivity problems (between power pack and the straight track section which holds the wire lead). Also, I see blue-ish ‘sparks’ eminating from the engine’s trucks, something I’ve not noticed on any of my other locomotives. I use MRC’s Tech II power packs. Can anyone shed some light on what may be the problem? Also: how often do you need to clean the rails, and with what? I’m wondering if that’s part of the problem.

Have you done any maintenance to the locomotive?
Have you clean the wheels on the trucks? Have you cleaned that track?
It could be a combination of both.
I had an Athearn GP7 that was making it’s rounds on my layout, running fine, I left it alone for about 10 minutes leaving the room, came back & it was at a dead stop on a down hill grade with the power pack at half throttle.
I took it apart, cleaned the wheels, lubed the chassis & it runs fine now.
It was in the same boat, didn’t get run much.
Even locomotives that are not run often still need to be maintained.
Not sure what else it could be?
I hope this might help.

Gordon

Mabey the engine needs more power than your others and may need some more feeder wires down the track

Definitely sounds like dirt to me. Especially if you’re getting arcing between the wheels and rail. If your track hasn’t been cleaned in a long time, I would start by using a “bright boy” (grit-impregnated eraser block) and scrub the rail until it shines. After that, an occasional cleaning with denatured alcohol should keep it clean. An easy way to clean wheels is to lay a paper towell across the track and spray it down with denatured alcohol (no water). Then, remove the engine and turn your throttle up to 90 or so. By placing the engine on the track with one set of trucks on the track covered by the paper towell and the other off the towell (to pick up power) and holding the loco stationary while the wheels slip. After the wet towell quits getting black with the one truck, switch to the other truck. If the truck trying to pick up power is very dirty, it might take a while to get it rolling. Another thing to do is use some electrical contact cleaner (spray can) on the bolsters where the axle contacts the bearing. This is the path the current takes into the motor and it gets dirty too.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice guys. Quick question(s): 1) If I have a straight sectional track that feeds from the power pack, can I still add another feeder track for more power? 2) The arcing situation–why would this affect one loco and not the others, especially given that some of my other engines get greater use?

  1. Yes, most of us solder feeder wires to the rail, every 3 to 6 feet is suggested. Or you can solder wires to rail joiners, or buy pre-made ones.

  2. The arcing is due to the wheels being dirty. The ones that get greater use are keeping thier wheels cleaner.

For the whole enchilada, you should replace any plastic wheels you have with metal wheels. Clean ALL the wheels (new and old) on every locomotive and piece of rolling stock you have with MAAS Polishing creme. Then clean the track with MAAS, a very small amount on a clean cloth will do it.
http://www.maasinc.com/products/

The more you run your trains (after the above) the cleaner they and your layout will stay.

Thx, Nigel.