Small Tunnel

When I was measuring the height of the tunnel it measured out well but then I tested with a double-stack and it turned out that the top container touches the top right curve of the tunnel portal. I’m wondering on how to fix this. I can just shave out the 1/4 inch i need or scrape the whole thing out and install a new tunnel portal, but before I do this I would like to get your opinin :).

Here’s a picture of the tunnel portal, and B.T.W this is n scale:

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p225/me0001_photos/DSC00001.jpg

To cut it out would be an interesting project, how to make the retrofit look right. I wonder if any of the prototypes had tunnels that were ok but the portals needed enlarging. It would take some interesting cement work. An easier way would be to put in a new portal. Let us know what you did.

Do you just want it to work, or would you like it to look realistic months from now? That is pretty much your decision. You could use a dremel wheel and route out the one side, but it will look funny.

If it were me, I would get the right sized portal and replace this one. It’s a pain, yes, but we’re talking setting you back a whole day. Drill a 3/8" hole someplace, maybe near one of the top corners, and then use a fine saw to slice along the portal top so that you can use it another time. Take your time, and it will go well. Carve out the aperture to fit the larger portal, finish with some plaster patch, and colour/stain.

It’s too bad, because it doesn’t appear that you have a tight curve approaching the tunnel…maybe just camera angle.

Is there any way you can remove the portal without causing too much damage ?

If you can, you can try re-positioning it so your trains can run through it without touching it. Due to the curve in your track, you need to put the portal a bit off-centre which is why the double-stacks hit only one side of the portal (due to over hanging on the curve). Place your tallest and longest cars in the tunnel opening, and then try putting the portal so it doesn’t touch either of the cars. You might need a wider or taller portal. If a taller one will work, you can try putting shims under it then disguising them as part of the portals foundations, or some rubble left over from tunnel construction, or brush.

When trains started getting taller, the Bn had a problem with their bore on the Cascade Tunnel (7.9 miles through the Cascades in WA) - it was just a wee bit too short for the taller stacks! So they went and cut notches in the curved roof of the tunnel, all the way through the tunnel, to provide clearance.

Carve a bit away on the portal. It will be fine.

Indeed, and they weren’t all that careful with the Dremel:
http://microvoltradio.com/railroad/bnsf1102a.jpg

Since there’s a prototype for it, go for it, I say.

Great picture! The modeler can’t really go wrong trying to duplicate that, can he?

Still, I like my portals unmodified.

Since you have a curved track going into the tunnel, I would recommend you remove the portal and replace it with a double-track portal. On my old HO layout I had a curve going into a tunnel and I knew there would be problems particularly with long tall cars like Superliners and Auto Carriers, so I got a double-track portal and all was fine. In your case you might have to shave a bit from the sides but your portal height would remain the same.

great picture:)

I think the Southern had this problem and enlarged existing openings on some of their tunnels on the Rathole Division. The Norfolk Southern has since daylighted many of these old tunnels.

Caution, do NOT cut out the portal.

That is an arched portal made of cut stone blocks. Modifying the arch in any way will almost surely allow the entire top to collapse onto the track, probably along with part of the mountain. Your insurance carrier will hate you! [(-D]

Seriously though, cutting out part of an arched portal would just look wrong. It could not be safely done in the real world. (Well you could add some poured concrete or steel plate.) Try some of the other suggestions above first. Half a day’'s work now will keep you from wishing you’d done it for the life of the layout.

Karl

No problem. Just insert some rock bolts on the newly exposed block faces. Grandt Line has several sizes of NBWs that could be used to simulate the bolting effort.