Now that I’ve finally reached the “almost ready to build” stage of the new layout, there comes that choice I have to make regarding the final shape.
Let me tell you what’s going on. I have room along one wall for a nice “N” scale shelf-type layout. I designed a pretty good benchwork plan that is 8’ X 2’ and will fit just ducky into the space provided. However, I also have this hollow-core door that’s been taking up vertical space in the shed…
So here it is: If I use the 2X8 plan, I can get a really good straight run in a couple places for the passenger daily, and some rolling scenery. However, I’m restricted to an 11" (+or-) radius on the curves.
If I go with the door, then I can have more generous curves, but length is compressed. True enough, there’s more depth for scenery, but that’s not as big an issue as the length of the runs…
So I’d appreciate some input into the matter, what your experiences have been and what you’d consider doing, etc. Basically, I could use some outside input as to which way to go with this. There’s also the wiring issue, having to wire through the deeper door, as opposed to a 1/2" plywood or mdc surface, etc. Not too difficult, just different and a little more planning for the door option.
Get a second door to increase the length? You can buy a damaged second and cut it just short of the middle crosspiece and attach to the whole door to get your full length. --Randy
Yup… I’d considered that as well. There’s a part i left off inadvertantly in the description, however, and that’s where the, er, sticky wickett is.
The layout is 8’ along the wall side, but only 6’ along the front. The reason is that I need a 45degree angle in order to get in and out of the door.
The layout, as you face it, has it’s right edge against the door frame. When I laid out the plan, I found that if I made the front edge6’ and then cut the angle from there to the back edge, I had more than enough room to clear the door and get in and out without any obstructions.
Now, theoretically, I could rearrange the room a lot and then use the 2-door option. I just have to set and think a spell, ayuh…
Any advice on running feeders through doors, etc? I’m not using any under-table switches, preferring the Caboose Industries’ hand-thrown ones. However, I remember reading about drilling through the door for the feeder wires and then lining the hole with a soda straw section to feed the wires easier.
Also, what about sound deadening from the hollow board? As a musician, it’s seems to me like it would act as a guitar or violin body and amplify the sound. Maybe a layer of thin cork sheeting before the foam?
Decisions, decisions
Thanks again for the help. I really do appreciate it.
If I can figure out a way to copy the benchwork plans onto a disc, I’ll post them so you can see easier what I’m talking about.
Sounds like adding a triangle piece to the end of the door would work. Also, drill a couple of small holes in the door and use some of the spray insulation in a can to fill the door up. Just remember, it expands alot as it dries, so leave some room for that. Then you won’t be riding on a sound board.
Cut the second door to fit an addition as was mentioned above so that you get the most space you can get without using the nearby door. So that you can use the door, have the addition hinged to drop down. This allows the use of the door, but also grants you the space you’d like to have. Complicates things only slightly.
