Like the title says, I built a small display case/shelf. Nothing fancy. Its basically a very shallow bookshelf.
I have not yet put any sort of track ON the shelves for the benefit of the displayed equipment to sit on. I planned on using cheap sectional track obtained from ebay. The shelves are 27.5 inches wide as that’s three 9" pieces of straight track. Maybe I’m over thinking it, but would the material the rail is made out of matter for semi-long term storage? Obviously nothing is running so power and cleaning the track is silly. Would there be any negatives to using steel track?
Steel will eventually rust, although this can be a slow process. Hmmm, location “Potomac Yard”? Maybe it’ll be faster with the humidity you may be around? Loco and other wheels are not steel in most cases (but that would definitely not be good resting on steel rail long term), but there’s the issue of electrolytic action between two differing metals. There, my chemistry fails me (that was 40 years ago!)
I had a display case I made one. Eventually, I didn’t bother with rails, as that was fiddly. If they’ll never be moved maybe rail isn’t too much of a PITA, but I moved things in and out so…
You can also cut groves at the proper gauge in the shelves, but sounds like you’re beyond that.
I build mine out of 1x3 pine for the shelfs, cut long enough to fit a piece of flex track on perfectly. Then Use 1x4 or rip 1x6 pine for the top/bottom so I can cut a slot in them to slide some glass or plexiglass into them to keep the dust out.
Build as many shelfs as you want and stain to taste.
This one doesn’t have the laminate back installed, or glass yet, I was testing it for fitment.
My apartment building is a desiccated wonderland of no humidity. Nice change of pace from the last place I lived here.
I was actually concerned about some sort of reaction between the rails and the metal wheels. But I can’t imagine that would happen in a few months, would it? Its not like these are permanently going on the shelf. How long do people leave rolling stock on tracks without moving them with no ill effect? I also pondered if painting the rails would make a difference.
I’d considered cutting grooves in the shelves, which are removal so that’s not entirely out of the question. The only downside is that I’d have to wait until the next time I can go back to PA to visit my parents so I could restain the wood.
As you have noticed, the cabinet back is rather nec. to not only keep the structual integredy of the unit, but to support the shelf weight itself. When first milling your outer fram provide a “rabbit” for the back panel inset. This become quite hard to do later having to rabbit w/ a router and chisel the corners. Or you will see the 1/4 panel exposed @ the sides. Instead of placing track (nickle silver flex) you can also cut grooves into the shelf w/ the table saw. Just a few hints, some may not really be looking to make a piece of furniture, but as a cabinet maker I would just pass on a few ideas.
While milling the perimeter frame you can also mill a groove for 1/8" plexi or Lexan for the cover to slide into. One side will of coarse be ripped narrower to allow the slide. That ripping can be placed on the plasic cover as a moldind/ handle to finish off the side frame and act as a handle for the slide.
I had a friend put quarter inch groves in my 6 X 2.5 X 3/4 inch shelf boards… Looks good and stock and engines sit easily in the grooves. Bottom and top are 3.5 inch wide boards with two additional grooves for plexiglass sliding doors. Back is very thin grained wood.
