My HO layout as is outside as basements are scarce in Phoenix, AZ. Presumed I was fully aware of the challenges such as very infrequent rain events and sharing the space with scorpions and rattlesnakes. Also incorrectly thought the small mass of code 83 track could not contribute to the rail kinking real railroads experience during the heat of summer.
Wrong. This is after both mains had cooled a bit as I quickly covered the track with a towel as I ran to get the camera. I have already painted the WS roadbed - twice - to minimize heat absorption. Looking to invest in solar screen cloth and make dual layer blankets to block or greatly minimize the solar gain. Thinking they could be attached to 1 x 3s and laid over the track.
Spent a year in the AF where the runway was painted white to keep the sun, when we had sun, from causing frost heaves. You certainly have a problem I don’t think I want. Would you be better off to paint the roadbed black so it absorbed the heat rather than reflected it back by the track, thus sort of heating the track twice? Just a thought. I’m afraid I’d seriously concider making a building. I know, $$$$$, but you might also be able to keep the snakes and scorpions from attacking trains, and you could control the cimate.
maybe just one of those canvas canopies to cover your railroad to keep the sun off. If its allowed in your nieghborhood that is The idea of outdoor HO is interesting but it would be tough in Idaho. I got a kid in Mesa and a brother in SunLakes so I know what your up against. I imagine the temp of your rails will get high enough to burn you. In the summer here I’ll pull my tablesaw outside and just the sun on the bare metal will get hot enough to burn. If its gonna set awhile I usually through a tarp over or pull the saw into the shade if I don’t need it for awhile. Better start modeling subways outside.[8D]BILL
You will have to cut gaps every 20’. If your track is meant to be electrified, you’ll have to solder jumpers, or rely on joiners and make sure the rail ends don’t close together in the joiners. Trouble is that joiners get dirty/corroded and won’t work after a while electrically. You’ll have to resort to soldering tiny jumper wires across the gaps.
What I suggest is that you use a soft adhesive, such as acrylic latex caulk, under the ties. Not much at all, and spread thinly. The odd track nail wouldn’t hurt either. But you will have to allow the rails to expand and contract, so you need to establish a 1/16" gap in the metal rails about every 10’-20’. The gaps will open and close as required, and even if one or more closes hard, the caulk will allow the tracks to move a wee bit.
Thanks for correcting the photo link. I’ve already begun adding gaps to the track last night. HOA rules preclude any sort of structure on the sides of homes so that won’t work. I will likely cover the tracked areas by creating a blanket affair from either solar screening or car towels.
Realistically, in this area, an outdoors model railroad is not usable from late May through mid-September due to the heat. Maybe some operating in the early evening once the area is in the shade, but still the air temps would be north of 100 and I recall electronics don’t like that.
But the rest of the year, even in the day time, is great and that’s what my end game is.
The problem is not the track as much as it is the wood under the track expanding and contracting with changes in weather more than the rail. This has been discussed ad nauseam on these forums over the years.
Leave gaps at every flex track joint and solder jumper wires around those gaps.
I might suggest metal wheelsets[:-^]. Does this mean that you can buy track cold and get 10% free by putting it outside?[swg]. Just kidding. I would get the track toward the hot end and then lay it, leaving a small expansion gap between and nail it down. A trial overnighter will tell you exactly how big the gap will be, hopefully you won’t need guardrails at every joint (couldn’t resist[:)]). Several smaller lengths might be better than one long length to keep the gaps smaller. I would also be very careful where the gaps are placed when it comes time for any curves. The other thing I would be concerned with is the ability of the plastic ties to withstand the high UV light without breaking down. A possible solution is to build a protective roof structure over the track and scenery. I mean a small roof, 2ft above the track, similar to what the second deck layout does for the lower level. It might help with UV bleaching any scenery as well.
WARNING: Some might find the next statement blasphemy, read at your own risk
-you might also try a couple pieces of brass track. I am not sure if it has better properties when it comes to thermal expansion.
HO track is not designed for outdoor use in any climate.
If a building is out of the question, at the very least you need a structure or tent that will keep direct sunlight off it. In Arizona even that might not be enough.
The plastic used in HO scale flex track is not UV resistant, and the crossties will deteriorate very quickly in the sun and basically become so brittle that the least bit of pressure will turn them to dust.
G-scale track is weatherproof and UV resistant because it is made to be used outdoors, but HO is not.
Peco makes HO scale flex track that has UV inhibitors in it because many people in the UK run HO outdoors, but I don’t think it is available in the U.S.
I have read of instances in the Phoenix area of plastic wheels melting on G-scale outdoor track and the use of metal wheels being more or less mandatory. The same could probably happen to HO scale wheels.
If I coated the ties with an SPF 70 Coppertone Sun screen, would that help? Seriously, good point.
Before I started construction, about 20 pieces of code 100 NS were inadvertently left out in the Sun in the same side yard for a full two years with no degradation to the plastic ties. Regular Atlas code 100 flex. (using for the hidden staging areas).
Regarding gaps and jumpers, doing that with the exception of two long, broad curves where the joiners were soldered (about 15 linear feet). Gapped both ends, though.
When the ties are weathered via air brushed paint, wondering if that will afford any UV protection? Found several screening products at the orange box that state they cut 90% of UV. Presuming that is accurate, is the culprit UVa or UVb?
