I heard recently and from a “reliable” source that you should solder all joints where 2 pieces of track come together. What say you “oh great and wonderful guru’s”
This newbie is confused [banghead]
I say solder MOST of the track joints. Leave a few free to provide for expansion joints, but otherwise solder 'em. It really makes a difference in electrical reliability. Also, drop feeder wires every 3-6 feet.
Soldering isn’t hard, it’s just something you have to practice at. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
You have two things to consider here…electrical conductivity and metal expansion due to temperature changes.My suggestion is to have an open joint every three feet or so,so that your tracks can expand and contract to a certain degree without creating wrinkles in your trackwork.0015-0020 in. gaps should be okay and won’t hurt operations with well aligned tracks.Then every three feet section needs to be linked with feeder wires through the benchwork to either a bus wire or a block control switch as per your layout’s electrical diagram.
When laying curves, I solder two pieces of flex track together and then form the curve. This reduces the chances for kinks (which are a bad thing on curves). The rest of the rails are connected using rail joiners. If I have a problem with poor contact, I solder that joint. Otherwise, evertything else is left unsoldered.
Tom
PS Welcome to the group!
Hello “confused,”
I agree with the solder-on-curves-and-not-on-tangents (straight track) approach. I’ll add that I not only leave rail joints in straight track unsoldered, in my HO track I also make sure there’s a space the width of an NMRA gauge between the rail ends in the joiner. I also solder a feeder to every length of rail, and this is especially important where you leave the joints unsoldered. Rail joiners that aren’t soldered will not be reliable electrical connections over time, particularly when you paint, ballast, and weather your track.
Good luck,
Andy
I would like to thank everyone for their replies. I guess I need to pactice my soldering. Ain’t done none in “years”. But that’s ok. I have a decent size box of left over track to practice on. As far as expanding the layout goes…“no way”! At least that was the answer I got from SWMBO! Current layout is 5’ x 12’ and will probably have to stay that way. Of course what I didn’t say was there’s approx 40’ of HO race track sharing the benchwork. [:D]
A good practice is to solder every other joint on the straight (semi straight) areas and solder all joints on curves. Then solder feeder wires to every new ‘section of rail’ as this will avoid any dependence on rail joiners to conduct current. It is a little more effort up front but will pay dramatic dividends in the long run.
I don’t like to solder and find when I solder rail joiners I often end up with “cold” joints. They look good at first, but cause trouble latter[:(] Feeder wires are much easier to solder right[:)] Use flex track to minimize the number of joints and solder feeders to every section. If there must be a joint on a curve solder the joint with the track pieces together on the workbench and with them straight, then lay the whole section.
METAL RAIL JOINERS line up two ends of track. Since they are ‘friction’ fitted they will allow slippage or expansion. They also conduct electricity - when they’re NEW.
SOLDERING is for Electrical connections and reliability. WHEN do we CROSSOVER? Thin rail joiners come under stress on curve alignment trying to hold two rails together. Soldering reinforces the joint
Soldering the rail joints to improve electrical continuity - but does so at the expense of expansion. Running trains does heat track, and track WILL expand - gaps or no.
To my esteamed colleague OrsonRoy, I find There are two schools on ‘rail expansion’:
1).Those that have had it happen, and 2). those who have not.
My club, The Columbia Gorge Model Railroad Club (Portland) 2 years ago built a large oblong SPIRAL in the summer to get from the main floor to the basement while maintaining a 2% grade. (Approx half the track joints (curved sections) were soldered). This winter we discovered our trains were derailing from a 3/4" open rail gap from contraction.
ANDY SPERANDEO suggested the best of both worlds. Words to the WISE i think.