OK, so (again) I must be doing something wrong, so I’ve come to this forum to get more answers!
I am trying to solder feeder wires to my track and have watch videos after videos after videos on how to do it. Feeling confident, I started some last week and have not been able to replicate what I see in the videos.
I clean the area of the track with alcohol.
I tin the tips of the feeder wires (which, btw are 18 gauge…is that too big?)
I add a bit of solder to the track…and, here is where I start having issues. I can’t seem to get the track hot enough to melt the solder before (at LEAST) 2-3 ties on each end start to melt and curl up!
I’ve tried taking wet cotton balls and putting them on each end, but the water only makes the time to heat up the track take longer, resulting in the same thing.
Basically, everywhere I’ve done a feeder wire, I have to go back and replace 4-6 ties, which I hate, because the replaced ties don’t sit at the same level as the original ones that are attached to the track, so I have a height issue to address. [sigh]
Watching the Beer Line video, Part 2, here on this site, the guy only “touches” the track and the solder melts, so what am I doing wrong??
A couple of things I’m thinking may be issues…
Am I using too cheap of a soldering iron? I just bought the basic Weller 40W iron. Seems like the hotter ones would melt a smaller area faster?
Is the solder too thick? I bought BernzOmatic electrical rosin core solder (thinking if it’s electrical solder, that MUST be good!) that is .062"/1.6mm. Would that be the reason why it takes so long to melt?
Should I be using flux? Most videos say “flux is the devil” but doesn’t it assist the solder to melt faster?
Once again, any help is VERY much appreciated and anxiously awaited…
Ga 18 wire is indeed big for feeders and will require more heat to solder.Ga 22 is usual for this purpose.Big wire and a little lack of practice are likely your problem.Try yourself on a scrap piece of track,it’s not that hard with a little practice.
I don’t know how hot the soldering iron you have is, but you want one that heats to well above the melting point of the solder.
Don’t just clean the track with alcohol. Hit it with a bit of very fine sandpaper in the area to be soldered, or if you can do what I do - use a Dremel cutoff wheel at low speed and move it very lightly back and forth over the area to be soldered. That removes all the dirt and oxides on the rail. Just don’t cut through the rail! Works great for me!
USE FLUX! It’s almost impossible to get a good solder joint without it. I apply it right after I clean the spot to be soldered.
Finally, put the feeder in place against the fluxed rail, and touch the soldering iron to the joint. IMMEDIATELY when the flux starts to smoke (should be right away) touch the solder to the joint as well, and remove the solder AND the iron as soon as the solder flows. Should be one to two seconds total time of the iron on the joint.
Anyway, that’s how I do it, and I don’t usually melt ties that way.
OK, so (again) I must be doing something wrong, so I’ve come to this forum to get more answers!
I am trying to solder feeder wires to my track and have watch videos after videos after videos on how to do it. Feeling confident, I started some last week and have not been able to replicate what I see in the videos.
I clean the area of the track with alcohol.
I tin the tips of the feeder wires (which, btw are 18 gauge…is that too big?)
I add a bit of solder to the track…and, here is where I start having issues. I can’t seem to get the track hot enough to melt the solder before (at LEAST) 2-3 ties on each end start to melt and curl up!
I’ve tried taking wet cotton balls and putting them on each end, but the water only makes the time to heat up the track take longer, resulting in the same thing.
Basically, everywhere I’ve done a feeder wire, I have to go back and replace 4-6 ties, which I hate, because the replaced ties don’t sit at the same level as the original ones that are attached to the track, so I have a height issue to address.
Watching the Beer Line video, Part 2, here on this site, the guy only “touches” the track and the solder melts, so what am I doing wrong??
A couple of things I’m thinking may be issues…
Am I using too cheap of a soldering iron? I just bought the basic Weller 40W iron. Seems like the hotter ones would melt a smaller area faster?
Is the solder too thick? I bought BernzOmatic electrical rosin core solder (thinking if it’s electrical solder, that MUST be good!) that is .062"/1.6mm. Would that be the reason why it takes so long to melt?
Should I be using flux? Most videos say “flux is the devil” but doesn’t it assist the solder to melt faster?
Once again, any help is VERY much appreciated and anx
OK, thanks, guys, for all the info so far, but that brings up another question…on the 10-12 wires that I have already done with 18 guage, should I go back and re-do them with 22 guage or just leave them alone?
With this new info, I’m wanting the day to hurry up and get over, so I can stop by Home Depot on the way home, buy a new soldering iron and try it out! [:D]
(I guess I’ll be buying 22 guage wires, too!!)[:^)]
When I built all my modules I used 18 gauge wire. For soldering heavy wire to the buss and rail I use the old Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun and .032 rosin core solder. If the rail is already weathered then you will have to use a Dremel with a wire brush to clean it first. Tinning the rail and wire is a good way to go. I do the same thing. With the big gun it only takes a second to solder and no melting. With this setup I never had to use flux. Also if there is any liquid to transfer heat to the ties. I suspect the alcohol has not completely evaporated before you tried to solder. More heat and smaller diameter solder should work for you.
I like to tin both the feeder wire and the rail before attempting the actual solder joint. I ALWAYS use flux on both the wire and the rail. It is far easier to quickly tin the rail alone than to try to apply solder to both the rail and the wire at the same time. With both the wire and rail pretinned, I add another small dab of flux to the tinned area of the rail, hold the tinned wire against the rail, then touch the two with the soldering iron. Since the solder has already bonded to the wire and to the rail during the tinning process, you only need to get the solder hot enough to flow between the two pieces. There is usually enough solder available from the tinning process that additional solder is not needed. Just heat the joint until the solder flows then quickly pull away the iron. Don’t let the wire move until after the joint has cooled to ensure a good hot (shiny) joint.
Unlike others, I’ve never had a problem using a 40w soldering iron to solder leads.
I use 22awg for feeder wire. Not the cheap stuff you get from Radio Shack - but a good quality, pre-tinned, high strand count wire available from places like Digikey or Mouser. Pre-tinned assures that copper oxidation doesn’t interfere with heat transfer as the wire heats up. High strand count insures faster heat transfer from wire to rail.
I also use .032 size rosin core solder. In addition, I use a paste form of resin flux. Just a dab (use a microbrush) on the rail at the point I want to solder the feeder wire.
For soldering iron tip, I use a thin bladed tip (looks like a minature screwdraver). Make sure the tip is clean and free of oxidation. I always wipe the blade tip with a wet/damp sponge just before I apply it to the joint to be soldered. You don’t want to drown it in wet - just a quick swipe to take off any oxidation occurring from the tip heating up.
To solder I use the soldering iron to hold the feeder against the rail where I want to solder it (solder iron never contacts rail). I then wait a couple of seconds and then feed solder to the joint right where the wire is touching the rail (I don’t touch the soldering iron tip with my solder feed). The paste flux applied previously works to clean the area and draw solder into the joint.
Remove solder feed. Remove solder iron (making sure to keep feeder wire motionless while join cools. It’s all of a 5-6 second operation.
It takes a little practice. But is one of those “essential” skills that isn’t too difficult to master. If you’re new at it I’d suggest learning on a scrap piece of track. Practice until you can get the solder to flow evenly and smoothly with a minimum amount of contact time between the soldering iron, solder, and rail.
Just as said, too small a gun/ iron and a heavy wire. The Weller gun w/ the wider chisel style blade transfers heat quickly to the rail web allowing less time in overall heating of the rail and thus melting the ties. Scuffing up the web by any means you perfer ( I will scrap w/ small screwdriver or file) and tinning the feeder as well as placing heat sinks should solve your problem.
The LION’S experience is different. I find a 25W soldering iron to be sufficient. I do use 18ga feeders.
OK, I flux and tin both wire and rail, thus when i make the connection I hold the soldering iron in my right paw and the wire in my left. I put the wire to the rail and touch the iron to the joint. It should take only two seconds. If you are still having issues, use a bulldog clip on the rail as a heat sink. I do not need to do this.
The size of a soldering iron and a soldering gun are not compatible. A 25W iron is sufficient, it stays hot and does not need more wattage. A gun on the otter hand needs the extra power heat up quickly. You don’t need that! LIONS do not like guns of any kind.
And if a tie curls up, who cares! Irregularities on ties are quite normal.
I use 18 gauge feeders. I use a Weller 100/140 gun. Make sure the tip is clean and tinned. File it until shiny and melt a little rosin core solder on it. Use a Dremel with wire brush to clean the rail. Spike freshly stripped wire to the rail. Touch rosin core solder to the joint and gun to the rail on the opposite side. The solder should melt before the ties. Remove the gun as soon as the solder melts. Heat sinks don’t seem to make a difference.
There is a knack to it… Use a 40 watt iron, make sure the area is clean, make sure the iron is tinned and totally hot, flux the track area, go in and solder, and immediately hit the area with a damp sponge. Also, use thin diameter solder, as it is easier to handle.
I guess I am the only one who asked if the rail is pre weathered? If it is then you will have to sand, scrape, grind a bare spot. The ME weathering solution will make the rail not take solder at all. You will have a heck of a time soldering it unless it is down to the base metal.
40W should be plenty to sodler feeders. My solderign station is 45W and sodlers rail with no problem (as in building a turnout, or soldering two sections of flex together). #18 is a bit large for feeders - and unsightly. #22 is plenty big - you cna get nice spools of this in two colors at Home Depot, it’s listed as “alarm wire”.
The absolutely biggest issue with soldering is making sure the tip is clean and shiny. If the tip of your soldering iron is black and oxidized looking, it will not transfer heat very well and you have to holdit in place too long - melting ties. A temperature controlled solderign iron helps a lot, as a regular one just keeps heating as long as it’s plugged in. These don;t have to cost a fortune, mine was under $50, and it’sa a true temperature controlled unit - the low cost Weller is NOT controlled, you cna turn down the voltage but it does not switch on and off to maintain a set temperature. ANyway, even ithout this, you cna manage just fine with a regualr iron. Two items - first, ditch the wet sponge that comes with most stands and replace with a copper wool pad. You can find them in the supermarket or a kitchen store - they are used to scrub copper pots (do NOT use STEEL wool or the like, it will scrape the plating off the tip - just like it would ruin a copper kettle). Second, pick up a jar of tip tinner, Radio Shack has it. With these two items you cna keep the soldering iron nice and shiny between joints.
I buff the track with a Dremel with a wire wheel in it.
I then tin the wire and the track (no flux is needed with rosin core solder, the flux is in the solder).
I put a 1/8" bend in the wire where it will be soldered to the track. I also put a slight bend in the wire where it comes out of the hole next to track. This second bend keeps the wire against the track webbing.
It takes about 2-3 seconds to solder the wire to the track; all without melting the ties.
The key for me is to use 22-24 gauge wire. This keeps the track temp down which allows the soldering without overheating the track, which prevents melting the ties.
22 gauge wire is fine. Use solid wire and tin the end. your gun size is fine if the tip is fine. Use flux. You should be able to put the wire against the rail and then apply the iron to the rail. As soon as it melts, remove the gun. Don’t move the wire till they cool a bit or you won’t get a strong connection.