Does anyone know of a real good soldering gun for soldering rail joints? I have tried several up to a 150/400 Craftsman. Has anyone used those small butane torches or the new cold solder guns?
George,
I soldered every joint on my first layout using a old heavy duty plummers soldering iron because it didn’t lose the heat like a soldering gun does when applied to the rail.
I never soldered the track again. To much time, trouble, and melted ties.
Rail clamps are the way to go.
Then if you want to make changes in your track plans later it is easier to un-scew a clamp then to un-solder a join.
If cost is the problem, save up for the clamps. I don’t think you will regret it.
The clamps should also eliminate the need to solder jumpers from one piece of track to the next! I have great continuity using clamps!
I’d agree with wd8jik, clamps are really nice. They work great and no problem should you choose to change this about at a later date.
underworld
[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
Rusty
I solder all my connectors rail and all and i use a jewelers torch and it definitely works well, I have used them so much I have got two different ones to the point where they need service to make them work.
They are American designed and are called REKROW micro torch, model RK2020;
I bought mine from the Electronic *** here in Australia and he is in direct competition with Tandy (Radio Shack) so that may be a place to start. But I can tell you they definitely do the job nicely.
Rgds Ian
Rgds Ian
Thanks Ian,
I am sure I can find one. The other ideas on rail clamps seem to work well with others. I haven’t tried any yet, but may try a few to see how they work in my application. In my part of the country it is very wet most of the year. Anyone that has been to the southeast part of the USA can agree with that. Thanks again everyone for your suggestions and advice.
Rusty mate;
I follow what Jack Verducci preaches and everything he has advised to do has worked for me, and I have gone from a novice or worse; to one who has a fully digital layout with working electric points and signals some 130 metres of track going through many different situations.
He advised that you use LGB rail clips and solder them in discreet sections and every so often break it up into sections with Hillman clamps (for easy removal that section if you have a prolem). i have done that and it is just great not only for conductivity but also for mechanical strength at the joint.
He also advises that you site your points first and also use Hillman clamps on them as well, so you can remove them easily for maintenance and he was so right about everything.
Rgds Ian
Ian,
I did find an article written by Jack on this very subject. http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/350fwuhs.asp
Thanks again
One thing to avoid like the plague is those cold heat soldering devices. They are suitable for only very small tasks, such as decoder installations; however, I would never attempt to use one for even that purpose because from what I have heard they are nothing but a battery-powered resistance soldering gadget that has to generate a spark – and a spark would probably destroy anything electronic.
Charles,
I did go out on my lunch hour and picked up a Roson micro torch. I think it will do the job. I will be testing it tonight after work. Thanks for the input.
Resistance soldering is terrific but you must match the soldering machine to the task and it is usually only suitable financially for haevy duty repeatable tasks like in factories.
Rgds ian
I tried the torch. It did work. However I did melt the tie a bit. I then read the article by Jack Verducci a little more and he makes a suggestion of cutting the webbing between a few ties and moving them out of the way. I will try that tonight as others things interevned last night. The rail clip idea is starting to get my stronger consideration. Off the subject for one minute. Has anyone ever seen a bumper sticker or tee shirt that read, “I’d rather be Garden Railroading”?
Have a great day!
I guess in some parts it may be night…[:)]