I just read the latest posting on soldering. Good advice but as always a difference of opinion on which iron. I have had success using a Wellers model 8200 soldering gun, 140/100 watts. I am not crazy about the tip size, a little big for N-scale, but seems to be OK. Does anyone have an opinion on this model versus either the Wellers WLC100 or WES51? Any experiences or advice would be appreciated. What diameter solder is best? Thanks.
I have had success with the 8200. I use .032 solder and found that for the price, about $30.00 the 8200 fits my needs. I also use a 25 watt pencil for finer work. But for heavier duty jobs like buss wire work the 8200 seems fine.
My Fast Tracks jigs and parts came yesterday. The CD that comes with it has a treatise on soldering which is very complete and informative. I have been soldering for over 50 years, so I pretty much have a handle on it by now.
Tim recommends a 35 W Weller with a tapering tip, which I think is fine for soldering rail to perf board ties, and small gauge wire to rail bases. But a little light for soldering bigger items.
I shopped at Lowes yesterday to obtain the Delta 1 inch belt sander without which you can’t grind the switch points using his example. I also was able to find a Weller 40 W. At Radio shack, I found a Weller 30 W which also has changeable tips so I bought some extra tapered and chisel tips.
I couldn’t find the Acid paste flux that he recommends so I have to research that one.
I have watched the video twice, and made a dry run once just to make sure I am doing everything right.
Today I make my first switch.
As a former manufacturing plant manager I know the value of automation and parts replication as per Samuel Colt, ie., make all of the parts at the same time to the same specs and they will be interchangeable. Voilla, the industrial revolution.
The jig has a left and right hand fixture. My thought, after I build the first one, is to cut and form parts for about 20 switches. I can than produce two at a time avoiding a lot of repetitve steps. I will cut and form all of the guard rails and set them aside. I will file all of the switch points and once I am set to solder them, I will solder all 20 sets and set them aside. And so forth.
I see this as the best investment I have ever made in over 70 years of model railroading. It offers a way to fabricate as many switches as I may need and best of all they make up into a very reliable switch.
I have a temperature controlled iron. It has several tips available from very small to medium, and the temperature can be set with a slider from cool to quite hot. It’s not very many watts, but with a cool temp and small tip it works well for decoder wiring. With a large tip and a high temp, it solders rail very well. It does not to a good job of soldering feeders to bus wire - not enough mass I think. For that, I have a very large high wattage iron. I’d be more specific about the model numbers, but you probably couldn’t find the exact irons anyway.
As for flux, I use a tube of electronics flux I got at Radio Shack a number of years ago. The techs at work use liquid. I think acid flux is better off reserved for plumbing.
Jim
I have been using a 35 W Weller for about a year and It was a big improvement from the Home Depot battery gun I had… I have been reading everyones post and saw alot of talk about flux… I have never used it but I think I may give it a try… J
Do NOT use acid flux on anything that carries electrical current. Use only rosin flux. You say you have been soldering for 50 years - electriconics or plumbing? They are two different animals. In a previous job I was NASA certified for soldering so I too know more than a little about what to do. Besides, if you’re materials are clean, you really don’t need to use flux of any kind. Just use a high enough heat and good solder.
Do NOT use acid flux for model railroading. It is ok soldering brass locos because the item is cleaned of acid residue before painting. The club I belong to started hand laying track many years ago. In the 1990s we started experiencing intermittent issues with electrical. Trying to clean up electrical connections on a finished layout is no fun. A clean joint with a little ROSIN FLUX, clean iron tip will work very well. Practice on wire, old track first and develop a procedure that suits you.
Rich
FYI: Fastracks says to use Acid flux on the hand laid track they offer, but they also have the luxury of sticking it under a faucet and washing it before putting the ties on.
When the switch is completed, it is a simple matter to just dip it in a glass baking dish with some baking soda added that will completely neutralize any residual acid that may be present.
I requested more information and this was their reply:
The solder flux that we recommend is Kester SP-30. It comes in a small 2 oz. blue tin. We don’t carry it ourselves, but you should be able to get it in most hardware stores. If you are unable to find it you can order it online from Mouser Electronics. Here is a direct link to their order page:
As I said I have been soldering for a long time using both resin and liquid acid fluxes. For soldering copper plumbing I prefer the latter. But for most model railroad applications I prefer either the resin paste flux or the soldering paste that includes the flux.
I soldered my first frog point assembly yesterday using a silver paste flux which worked very well. It has the advantage that it makes a much stronger joint than a lead tin solder does.