I’ve been frusturated because I use flextrack and I can’t get the joints to be flush and even. It causes for those aggrevating derailments. I was thinking about soldering those joints just on the flextrack. Is this a good idea? If so what kind of solder should I use? An acid free solder and use flux? I don’t know much about soldering so please try to be specific with some tips. Thanks a lot because this has almost completey stopped my progress on my layout. THANKS!!
This sounds like a good idea for a quickie clinic… Something EVERY model rail should know how to do…
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Get yourself a soldering iron 40-50 watt with a 1/8" chisel tip… I’ve read that home depot sells them or ( cough) radio shack… At the same time get some 60/40 or similar ROSIN core solder…
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If you have a dremel or similar rotary tool, get some wire brushes for it (don’t forget the safety glasses)… If not, a small wire brush on a handle will do (perhaps, again, cough, radio shak)… Failing both of those, a needle file.
You don’t need to bother with flux, though some will say buy it, I don’t, it is contained in the solder (NEVER use acid flux or acid core solder on track or electronics)…
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Clean the 2 sections of rail thouroughly, if possible before joining them… as well as the rail joiner with the wire brush or file.
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Touch the soldering iron where the 2 rails meet resting the tip on top of the rail joiner.
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Touch the solder to either end of the rail joiner… When the solder begins to flow, slide the iron back and fourth along the joiner. The solder will be drawn to the heat of the iron…
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Almost forgot… A damp sponge or rag to keep the iron tip clean. Wipe it off on the sponge, melt some solder on the tip and let it smoke a minute, wipe it off again… It should be as shiney as a mirror. BTW, your solder joint on your rail should look the same way. I always leave solder on the iron when it’s not in use or just idling… Leaving it dry while hot could burn the tip…
I think I got it all…
Good luck,
Jeff
Wat’s a chisel tip iron like?
Matthew
Man this should help a lot. I will practice on some junk rail before I apply it to my actual layout. This has been such a huge road block for such a long time, a year and maybe a half more. This info will is so helpful. Thanks a million
One more question if anyone will see it. Should I keep my soldering to just the flextrack joints or should I solder all of my joints?
Also, lay the two pieces end-to-end, properly joined by the thin metal joiners, and tack the pieces to a flat surface. Once they are flat and secured so that they are immobile, then your solders, if correctly done, will yield nice kink-free tracks.
If you intend to make curves, do the very same thing, and bend the track later, where you want the curve. One tip that some people swear works wonders is to stagger the outer rail so that the joint is halfway along one of the pieces. Slide one rail out the other way, and slide the other piece’s rail into the plastic spikes until the rails meet. When you bend them later to form your curve, it will be super strong.
If you’re soldering the joints on flex track, try to do it before curving the track: you’ll get much smoother curves. Also, while it’s usually a pretty quick job, it’s probably a good idea to use either a three-point track gauge or a Kadee gauge on either side of the joint to help keep the rails in gauge if the ties should get too hot and start to melt. They’re also effective as heat sinks to prevent any melting in the first place.
Wayne
The tip that does the actual soldering is shaped like a narrow chisel.
One other thing, for cleaning the area to be soldered (not just rails) I do the final buffing with a typing eraser, the kind you sharpen like a pencil.
I never solder turnouts in place. A turnout is the only piece of trackwork that has moving parts, and sooner or later is likely to develop problems. If they are not soldered into place, it’s much easier to replace one.
I use a 100 watt soldering gun. One trick to soldering flex track without melting the rails is to use a HOT iron. You want to heat the joiner and rail up quickly, solder them together, and then get out of Dodge so the rail will cool and not melt the ties. If you do it right it’s 7 seconds tops from allplying the iron to the joiner and being done. Don’t try to completely fill the joiner, it’s not needed. Heat the joiner from one side, apply solder from the other. Once the solder makes it through to the iron you’re done.
I also use acid paste flux (GASP!), as it speeds up how fast the solder will take to the joiner and rails. No problem with it if you clean up after yourself. An old tooth brush with a little soapy water is all you need.
This is a good idea no matter what kind of flux you use, as they’ll ALL leave some kind of gummy residue that’ll attract dirt and prevent paint from sticking if you decide to paint your rails later on.
Mark in Utah
One thing I’d mention about soldering joints is to hold off for a while if this is a new layout. Wood framework, especially plywood, tends to have a lot of moisture in it. As this wood ages, it loses moisture in most home environments. This will cause the wood to shrink. As it does, you may find that you get kinks in your trackwork. You may have to cut the rails back slightly in different areas to straighten the track. If you’ve already soldered the joints you’ll make it a lot more difficult. I had this on my layout the first winter after laying the track and a couple of members in our group have also had to make adjustments. Once you’re satisfied that everything is stable, go ahead.
I have a step by step picture album with explanations on soldering flex track here at my webshot album…the explanations are down and to the right and just click next to go through the series of pictures about soldering flex track http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/200142080vaBTvT hope this helps…chuck
This was reallt interesting to read and I have a question. You said the following:
‘If a low wattage gun or iron is used, put heat sinks as closely between the work as possible.’
Can you please explain the heat sink thing a little more, any picture maybe? I have a 25 w iron so it takes longer to heat the rail and joiner.
I use a 25w soldering iron (Weller). A larger iron will impart more heat much faster and for me at least increases the risk of melting ties. I have no problem at all with soldering the rails and I do not use heat sinks. The trick is to make sure the iron is “HOT”, use very fine solder and work quickly. Also make sure the iron (and the wire) is pretinned. Most times all that is needed is the solder already on the iron. Most people use way too much solder. I can make the connection in 4 seconds or less almost every time.
in other words, you need something to absorb the heat because the heating period takes longer with a low wattage soldering iron or gun which can increase the risk of melting the plastic ties…a couple of big alligator clips make good heat sinks…clip them to the rail between the ties and the place you plan to solder…chuck
Thanks for the tip, I will try that.
Wayne:
I agree with using track gauges as heat sinks and to insure the rails do not got out of guage if the ties start to melt, but I place a gauge on BOTH sides of the joint.
Nice Work Chuck! Lots of good info on there- I cheated and kept going past the flextrack section. Looks like you’ve got a nice layout started.
Al
Eirie Lackawana fan:
ONE: I don’t believe in soldering rail joints (I’m entitled). Exception: A Curve.
TWO: I believe people who do are cutting corner’s and too lazy to solder feeder’s for optimum performance (Opinion).
THREE: agreed, Derailment’s ARE aggrevating, and take the fun out of railroading.
That being said, WHY can’t you get two section’s of flextrack to line up together with just using Rail joiner’s? If you can’t, you are going to compound thing’s by soldering.
If ‘trimming’ flextrack is difficult, may I sugget using SECTIONAL TRACK with roadbed?
- look at UNITRACK
On the heatsink issue…if you use them remember that they are going to get hot. Don’t just grab them when you are done, or you can burn yourself.