Hi All!,
I have been reading alot in the forum about soldering and liquid flux. I bought some solder that is used for electronic purposes that has flux in it. Will that work the same way.
Tom
Almost. For wiring it should be fine. For rails, you will get mixed answers. I use flux because it works faster, but them I have a clean up problem, though it does not seem to be much of a problem. I have used the resin core, but I am not as good with it.
This is one of those places where expermentation is more useful than education.
Basically, yes. I seldom have to use an external flux source for MR type projects.
I use rosin core solder but I use paste flux along with it, it gives me a faster solder joint and I don’t have to move the solder around to where I want it. It just follows the flux I put down. Some will argue that it’s a waste of time to do it this way but it only takes a few seconds to apply the flux and it makes the job much easier.
I use th erosin core solder, bu tfor the longest time I had the thick stuff. Well, I model in N so I purchased some small solde rand it made a huge difference for me as it gave me more control.
I use rosin core solder too, but I don’t use flux for soldering rail and for soldering wires onto rails.
Hi Tom,
I use rosin core solder routinely for trackwork and wiring, but I often use a liquid rosin flux also. The flux will help solder to flow where you want it to go, such as into a rail joiner, and so help you to make cleaner joints using less solder. I use disposable microbrushes to apply the liquid flux, and I use denatured alcohol and an old toothbrush to clean excess flux off track. There’s no point in leaving any of that sticky stuff where it might end up on your wheels.
so long,
Andy
[#ditto]
I build up specialwork from raw rail, and have learned that the small amount of flux in rosin-core solder is frequently too little/too late. OTOH, adding a tiny dab of acid-free paste flux (with the end of a flat toothpick or equivalent) guarantees that the solder will go where I want it and adhere when it gets there. This doesn’t take much - I’ve been using a snuff-can size container for over thirty years and it’s still way more than half full.
To get the best possible solder joints:
- Make sure the metal is free of paint, corrosion, dirt and oil.
- Make sure the joint is snug (solder will not fill gaps worth a darn).
- Put paste flux where you want the solder to stick.
- Use 60/40 or 63/37 electronic solder. Avoid 50/50 and lead-free types.
- Pre-tin one or both parts, if possible.
- Use a tool that will transfer heat quickly to the place where the solder will melt, but one appropriate to the job. A 20 watt pencil iron is ideal for electronic connections like DCC decoders. My 320 watt hand cannon is much better for soldering frogs.
- Make sure the joint WILL NOT MOVE during and after heating.
- Clean up any remaining flux and ‘misplaced’ solder immediately.
It sounds like a lot to think about, but this all becomes second nature in pretty rapid order.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Lots of good tips here. I think I will try the liquid flux system. This seems to be a good way to get the solder where you need it. Thanks everybody!
To be honest, I have NEVER used an external flux. I simply use the rosin core solder. However, using an additional flux WILL make things go easier.
–Randy
The flux contained in wire solder is adequate, but if you really want to get good results, a little liquid or paste Rosin flux applied to the joint will really help. There isn’t a lot of flux in the wire to begin with.
That goes for any electrical/electronic soldering task: Extra flux won’t hinder the process. It won’t disappoint you. The purpose of flux is to clean the surface during the soldering process, and a cleaner joint is a better joint.
I’ve always used only rosin core solder on my N scale layout. I’ve always got it because I’m also in to electronics. But, now I’m a convert to using flux to solder feeders to rails. I was helping a friend with his HO layout and he suggested I use flux. I said, “Nah, I’ve never had to use flux with rosin core solder.” Well, I struggled a bit to get that first wire soldered to the rail. So, I thought I’d try his flux. Instant bond! Now, I’m a convert. I went right out to my electronics supplier and bought a little tin of rosin flux. Should be enough in that tin to last me my lifetime…and the next one…and the next one… I still use the rosin core solder, of course, but the flux makes it so much easier to solder to the rail.
for years I was told if you use flux use something other than your finger because the oil in your skin will stop the solder form sticking. just what I was told it is true in sldering copper pipes in my house. Ed
Flux is a major eye irritant, so if you stick your finger in it then rub your eye some time later, you will have a flaming eye for the next 12 hours. That’s why I don’t put my fingers in it anyway.
I use external flux religously. The extra heft of O scale rails and parts usually requires the external flux. One word of warning though, flux will severly and rapidly rust steel. If you are using flux to solder anything steel, make sure the joint has been completely cleaned after soldering.
Hi All!
I got myself some very thin resin core soldr and took the plunge. I couldn’t believe how easy it was! Thanks all you guys for your suggestions. You helped me get over something I had built up in my mind as impossible
Tom