I have a shelf layout, and right now it is just 1x4 shelf with Bachmann EZ track, but It is cheap and cheezy. I am Replacing it with Kato Unitrak and I need to know what one of the Kato 22" pieces matches the Bachmann 22" THere are so many different kinds I am confused.
Also, I am building a small layout. I ma using Atlas Flextrak (Code 83 is the only kind I can get adeal on and from my LHS none the less) what kind of switch should I get to match a 22" radius standard and What kind of cheap but reliable swich motors should I get?
It appears that Kato has a 21 5/8" and a 24" curve available.
Now, on to switches. The only Atlas switches that have a constant radius curve through them are the ‘Snap Switches’, with have an 18" radius curve through them. The ‘real’ or prototype switches divirge at a set angle, there is no constant curve through them. And most HO manufacturers build them the same way. They are not designed to be a ‘drop in’ replacement for a section of curved track. That said, the Atlas #4 is pretty close to a 22" radius curve, and would not be any tighter than the 22" radius curves you desire.
Switch Motors - ‘Cheap & Reliable’ cannot be said in the same sentence! You get what you pay for, and reliability ‘costs’. The ‘side mount’ switch machines from Atlas are basically reliable, but uses a lot of electrical current, has clearance issues, and just ‘looks’ bad. The ‘Cadillac’ of switch motors are the Tortoise slow motion motors. Once mounted, they are reliable and just about bullet proof. But they usually are mounted under the layout, and cost about $18 MSRP. A lot of folks use the Caboose Industries ‘ground throws’ - they are inexpensive and reliable. You have to physically ‘throw’ them just like the prototype.
I was gonna paint it black, but I just haven’t gotten to it. It is not attached at all, and I just really use it for testing equipment. I have some weird grades on it and the cars that roll really good tend to roll away on me.
Ok, I think by answering, you clarifyed my confusion. I thought becasue I was looking at that picture that they are all the same radius and just in different lenght, but I was just being stupid I guess. Thanks! I am not too worried about the code of the rail for this thing. Part of me wants to get code 100 for my actual layout that I am preparing to build, but What do I gain by getting it over 83?
