I figure everyone is going to tell me to go with the Soundtraxx, so a couple questions. Do these require a programmer or programming booster for basic operation? (remember, I’m using a Bach EZ command for right now.) Or can I install this, assign the loco an address and just live with the pre set sound until I can afford to upgrade my controller?
I’m figuring an 8 ohm high base 28mm speaker would work. (right?)
Which decoder would have “acceptable” sound for an F9? (1st. gen EMD?)
Do these have random sounds like the MRC decoders have? (air release, break squeal, etc… i really like the break squeal!)
My only other option would be an MRC 1643 generic sound decoder. Or one of their $25 “Sounder” units that require a motor control decoder.
I would use 1st generation EMD for an F9. I have not used these decoders, but I think the motor/light control is the same as the old DSDs. I had good success with the generic diesel decoder, but the motor control is not as good as most regular decoders. You can use them right out of the box and change the address, if you don’t mind the preset sound. They are designed to use an 8 ohm speaker.
I’m not sure if these models have random sounds.
I’ve never tried an MRC sound decoder, so I can’t comment.
I’d email your questions to Bruce at Litchfield station and see what he says.
The new Soundtraxx diesel decoders are the Tsunamis, which replace the decoders Loather linked to. They look to be very nice–and very expensive. I want to order a few in the next few months or so, and check them out.
My second decoder install (many, many moons ago) was a DSD-AT100LC in a Stewart F3. First generation EMD is what you want. Programming the decoder is no problem on my NCE PHP. The problem you’ll probably face is not one of being able to program a sound decoder or does the unit put out enough power to a programming track, but the limitation of the EZ DCC being unable to change any CVs.
But I would be able to set the loco address and run it on my EZ Command and have the sound work with the factory settings, right? I know I’d need to upgrade my controller to change CV’s.
I thought I read that you needed a programming booster for the Soundtrax but figured you don’t need that just to change the default address.
I also just read that these decoders don’t have very good motor control.(true/false?)
I’ve had no problems programming the SoundTraxx without a programming booster. You should be able to change the address without one, but then again I’m not familiar with the programming output of the EZ DCC system.
Motor control is just fine. Its part of a ABBA set of F3s with 3 power, 1 dummy for the speaker. The other 2 power units have NCE DA-SR decoders.
JK, I’ve installed 3 soundtraxx DSD-AT100LC in several loco’s using my NCE powercab with no programming issues. BUT, after purchasing an Atlas and several BLI, & proto2000 engines WITH sound utilizing the QSI sound chip, I am sold on QSI. The sound is so much louder, you can actually HEAR it [:)]. The sound quality is also better. My biggest gripe though with soundtraxx is that the audio level is just way too low. No matter how much I try to increase it.(Bigger speaker) (Baffles) it just does not give me the robust sound I require.
You are looking to put old technology into a new unit. You WILL be dissapointed by the quality and quantity of sound. The fact that you want a high bass speaker says to me that you want a decoder that actually has decent sound…
I highly recommend you look beyond the economy sound decoders and look at something like the Quantum Revolution-A. You will be MUCH happier. You get a decoder with much, much better sound and a motor drive that is second to none (unlike that LC soundtraxx decoders that have issues…).
Dave-I hear what your saying, but it’s just not in the budget right now. $200 for a decoder/programmer combo is out of the question.[sigh] Even the $35-$60 for the other two brands is pushing it…
I’ve used several of the LC decoders and they work/sound fine to me. IIRC they come from the factory pre-set to use the three-horn airhorn (it gives you the option of one horn “blat”, three horn, or five horn type airhorns). It doesn’t have some stuff like coupler sounds and such that say QSI does, but what it does have is good. A 1" speaker with enclosure results in a good sound especially I find if you can fit it in a dummy “B” unit, you might need a smaller speaker if you’re keeping the speaker in the engine. But I have a couple of GP’s with the board-replacement version of the this decoder using 1/2" speakers with enclosures and they sound fine.
One problem: you may find the settings from the factory are a bit LOUD!! I have most volumes set at about 50% for normal operation. I think the factory defaults are around 75% full volume.
My favorite part of Sountraxx LC decoders is when the loco comes across a dead frog or dirty piece of track and decides to restart. Of course, if you have any momentum programmed (as per the instructions) then the whole train will stop for 5 seconds and then start to move. Even better is the double stop/start! Happens when you have a long section of dirty track.
Another great feature of the Soundtraxx LC decoders is the wonderful LED flash. It occurs when you find it nessesary (I dont know why anyone would ) to turn your lights off. Then the light show begins!!! Great stuff! Disco time!
I totally emphathize with you as I’m currently in a budget crunch. However, keep this in mind:
Do you think that you will be satisfied with the final results? That’s what’s important. Don’t settle, unless you’re reasonably certain that later on you won’t say “Man! I could have just been just a little more patient and saved up a bit more to get the sound I really want!” [banghead]
Even with my situation, I’d rather hold out a little longer and pay the extra dollars for a Lok Sound or one of the new QSI units.
May be a long shot, but if you’re within traveling or phoning distance of a club that uses DCC, contact them and find out if there is a member that owns a programmer that might be willing to help you should you purchase a QSI or Lok Sound unit. Some clubs own their own programmers so it’s worth a shot, don’t you think?
Thanks for bringing those points up. I hadn’t considered any of those. Is that dead frog restart problem inherent in all sound decoders or just the cheaper Soundtraxx?? Should I “assume” it’s due to the lack of a capacitor?
Adding a capacitor should alleviate the first problem. I don’t use capacitors, I just clean the track when that happens until it’s clean enough that it stops halting. I check the wheels too to be sure they’re clean. I don’t recall a problem with a frog causing a pause on my old layout with Walthers turnouts, or the new one under construction using Unitrack…well except for one turnout, but non-sound ones had a problem there too!!
I think all the ones I’ve done I’ve used grain-of-rice bulbs from Walthers (12V) or Life-Like (14V) so I can’t speak about LED issues. Generally I find most LED’s don’t look as good as bulbs.
I have a number of engines with Soundtraxx LC or drop-in decoders, including three Alco’s, a couple of GP’s, an E-8, even threw one in an RDC, and I’m happy with all of them. They are kind of a “no-frills” decoder…no break squeal or coupler smash, the headlights basically have to be both on / both off or directional, etc. but for decent engine rumble, air horn and bell, dynamic breaks they work fine.
wjstix-Where would you put the capacitor(s)? Since the decoder restarts from lack of power from the wheels, in between the wheels and the decoder would make sense. Is that what the capacitor on some Digitrax decoders I’ve seen is for?(to solve the restart problem?)
Capacitors are there to allow the locomotive to coast over dead and dirty track. Soundtraxx officially doesnt support a capacitor with the LC series of decoders.
The Soundtraxx decoders I have came with a capacitor and instructions on connecting it up between the decoder and speaker. The capacitor is shown in the diagrams and instructions in the LC Manual:
…those capacitors are not intended for coasting over dirty track, but rather a nessesity in driving the speaker. If you look at the DSX, they actually have a ps that shows how to hook up a secondary capacitor for dirty track.