I was at Lowes tonight looking for leveling feet for benchwork legs and couldn’t find them.
Where do people find leveling feet, or how have you made them?
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
I use a blind nut and 1/4 bolt on the bottom of the legs.
Our modular group uses T-nuts (Home Depot), which is probably the same as a Blind nut. Joe
Joe,
I think they are the same! I would bet that “T nut” is the proper description[tup].
Besides, everyone knows nuts can not see in the first place.[:)]
T Nut is the proper name. USed then on my benchwork in the big rooma nd now using them [did some last night] in walk-in attic part of layout. Lowe’s has the T Nuts but NO screw in “feet” for the legs. Ended up getting mine from Ace Hardware. In fact, they ordered me some at a discount as I was getting so many.
Thanks for the replies!
I found the “T” nuts at Lowes, but didn’t see the feet. I thought I was missing something obvious.
There’s a local True Value known for stocking parts no one else carries.
I’ll politely refrain from any squirrel comments. [:)]
Chris
I guess the name depends upon the hobby or where you purchase them. I started with RC airplanes in my teen years where this type of nut is used frequently in plywood engine mounts. Dubro, a manufacturer of such things RC (and BTW, I still use them as a source for small bolts in nuts in the O Scale world), does refer to them as blind nuts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD966&P=7
So everyone is correct!
Luther, 10-4. Hey I’ve used them to mount fuel gauges in plastic fuel tanks for boats. Drill holes and cut out center hole for sending unit. Press the blind nuts [I can see where they are called that] on the inside of fuel tank with pliers to hold them in place. Use bolts to tighten with gasket between sending unit and tank. Now you have a plastic fuel tank with sending unit for fuel gauge when they did not come equiped. Mighty handy.
Here’s some ideas: http://www.woodcraft.com/ and http://www.rockler.com/ both carry light and heavy duty feet for furniture - I’ve bought some from both. Also, you can use a piece of 2x4 for the leg or add a separate short piece attached to the bottom of the frame, pre-drill it, and insert a short lag bolt. The hex head type will make a solid connection with the floor. Just drill the hole a little tight. If it’s too loose, put a nut on it and tighten up against the wood. If you don’t want to scratch the floor, you could use the smooth/rounded type heads and/or add some of those plastic floor-saver things for furniture and set them under the feet.
I’ve used these (type B - T-nut style) on workbenches and tool boxes:
Jim! [tup]
Yes! I completely forgot about WoodCraft! I used to pass by one regularly until we moved.
The Type-C level found in your last link is exactly what I had in thought.
I was really trying to avoid free hand drilling holes in the base of the 2x2 legs.
I can level and secure a Type-C leveling foot and know it’s spot on.
Thanks,
Chris
[:)] I can’t drill straight - I always use a jig of some kind or my little drill press!
Bummer, there’s no Woodcraft stores in New Jersey!
You could buy online. Their shipping isn’t too bad, but I would try and combine everything into a single order to keep it down as much as possible. You can also order a catalog and do regular mail order, or call and order on the phone.