I sent the ebay store a message and they answered as follows;
I bought a Ebay Accurail Data Only outside braced boxcar. It has no road name or car number. The finish looks pretty flat to me and I am inclined to hit it with some glosscote before I decal.
What say ye?
Yes, definitely coat it with something glossy. It really helps to hide decal film.
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-Kevin
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I agree, as it will make decal application that much easier.
I was never a big fan of decals, probably because I wasn’t very competent at using them.
My preference was for dry transfers, and I’ve gone through three sets (150 sheets, all suitable for lettering at least two items) of custom lettering, plus literally hundreds of C-D-S dry transfer roadname sets, and dozens of sheets Lettraset, both minis and full-size.
However, not all of the lettering I needed was available in dry transfer form, so I needed to improve my skills in decal application. This is the procedure I use now for applying decals.
The first step is top get a glossy finish on the model, either in the paint which you’re using or as a clear finish applied over the paint. All areas which will receive decals should be covered, and not simply in patches where the lettering will be - for most cars and locomotives, that means sides and ends, and in some cases, underframes (especially tank cars for the latter).
I use Testors Glosscote, thinned about 30% using lacquer thinner and appled with an airbrush - let it cure for a couple of days before starting decal work.
Working on a sheet of glass, I use a sharp blade and a straightedge to cut blocks of lettering from the sheet, taking care to keep the blade away from the lettering.
Once that’s done, I use the same blade (re-sharpen or replace as necessary) to cut away all of the excess paper - align the blade with the edge of the image, then press down firmly and chop-off the blank portion of the paper. For most things like dimensional data, this involves on four or perhaps six chopping motions. The reason for doing the cutting in this manner rather than a slicing motion is twofold: first, the cut can be made closer to the image and second, the c
My apologies, Guy, as it appears that my lengthy reply has put a damper on your thread. [banghead][:$]
Wayne
Threads on the internet mutate, it’s a law someplace.
I use model master acrylic gloss and the last time I used it I got a pebbled texture. If I did something different, I’m not sure what I did. Should I:
Have been closer to the model?
Used a higher air pressure?
Used more thining agent?
All of the above?
Wayne,
You don’t have to apologize. This thread on the search for an undecorated AAR 1937 Boxcar kit was dead already. Your posts are always informative and are replies to some asked question which is not always the case on these forums. I always consider it an honor when someone as knowneleable and experienced like you participate on one of my thread.
I was really hoping there would be a response in this thread that had some secret information on where it would be easy to find undecorated HO scale freight car kits.
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Something like… “Hey, just call Fred’s Train Shack in Colorado. Back in the day he bought twenty thousand dollars worth of undecorated car kits from Life-Like, Intermountain, Red Caboose, and CB&T, and he always has what you need.”
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Anybody? Does someone out there have a source for undecorated freight car kits?
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-Kevin
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No, I didn’t buy $20K worth of undecorated car kits back in the day. And though my wife wants me to sell off half of what I do have, Fred’s Train Shack in Colorado Springs has yet to open.[:D]
Since I model free-lanced Oregon short lines and narrow gauge, I prefer undecorated rolling stock and locomotives. I search the boxes under the table at train shows, and when I visit shops, I ask. Modeling late 19th century helps a lot, because most of the kits come with decals for my personal painting and decaling pleasure. For the Roundhouse OT and other plastic RTR or kits, if I can’t find undecorated, I settle for roadnames that might be seen in Oregon (CP, OR&N, O&C). Of course, living in Colorado Springs, and having lived in Alaska, Colorado Midland and WP&Y stuff likes to creep in.
I generally avoid buying rolling stock painted and lettered for NYC or PRR or Southern or even ATSF or UP. I also avoid decorated Blackstone HOn3 rolling stock (I do have some undecorated Blackstone flat cars that are era-appropriate). Helps the budget and keeps the amount of rolling stock under control.
Fred W
modeling foggy coastal Oregon in HO and HOn3, where it’s always 1900
You can join the HOSwap Yahoo group and place a “want to buy” post. Costs nothing to join. You’d be surprised (or maybe not) what people have in their basements.
I’ve bought a number of Tichy kits and Bowser kits as well. They produce fine models every time. The Tichy kits have detailed underbodies which have given me a new understanting of brake lines. I soldiered on, knowing that few would ever notice the brake lines and stake pocket details laboriously installed. To me, it was enough that just I knew they were there.
The Bowser covered hopper, with a fictitious salt company as the owner.
I built this when I realized that my tannery would use salt. I also built a couple of “Hide Service Only” box cars from Tichy for that industry.
Dang. Now I wish I hadn’t used the soon-to-be ex-wife’s birtday for the car number.
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It is embarrasing how many freight cars I have with Wife’s and Daughter’s birthdays for car numbers!
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-Kevin
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I just did a Google search for undecorated ho scale boxcars. Too many links to send to you.
Not often that Google fails but might take some time. Many times I have found the answer rather than posting a question. Just my way.
The biggest issue is, I have so many links stored from searches that it difficult to find an answer.
There are some out there. Exact Rail seemd to be one. But, pre-order or contact dealer.
Scale Trains might be another.
River City Railroad use to have Project Cars, unpainted MDC shake the box kits but do not see any right now at their link.
Edit.
I did a Google search for river city railroad and they have unpainted 40 ft and 50 ft with different type doors. MDC shake the box kits were never too fancy but might work. With the latest on posting company links. I would not rather post any link.
A few months ago I posted a link to the Bachmann train site and someone must have complained. trolled me, because the link was removed. Not a Trains,com link seemed to be the issue.
Rich
I regularly see many covered hoppers, don’t look that good, at a company in Westfield Ma the stores salt in buildings and covered outside in piles covered with tarps and held down with rubber tires. Used during the winter for sanding roads.
When my dad had an asphalt paving company in the early 1950’s, we did a job there, they received salt in box cars. Shovel or a small bucket loader uesd. Wood planks at the doors kept the salt in.
An old truck from a trailer truck would push the boxcars around. I remember a couple tires on the truck were flat one day. No car pullers. A steel beam attached to the front of the truck. A crude operation.
Couple years alter my dad purchased two new eighteen wheel dump trailer trucks to haul salt from NY State mines. It took a few years for railroad efficiency to kick in.
As a young teenager, I thought this was fascinating.
Conveyers today and have for sometime. Car pullers also.
You can easily see the place on Go