I’m using foam in my layout, and there are some places where 2 pieces of foam meet that require some contouring to create a smooth transition. I was thinking vinyl spackle might work in such a situation, but I wonder if it would dry out and crumble over time…
Would that work? Is there some other method or product that is commonly used in this situation?
Thanks.
They have non shrink joint compound so you don’t see nail holes and seams in your Sheetrock that may work but I now they also make foam paste sold in the craft stores a lot cheaper then the stuff from Woodland Scenics.
I have tried the ‘pre-mixed’ little tubs and they work - the problem is that the stuff dries so rock hard that one cannot sand it. I have bought small bags of ‘sheetrock’ brand drywall ‘mud’(18 lbs) that can be had in 30-120 munute dry times. This is sandable, and the extra working time is very nice. It also takes stains as the pre-mix spackle does not. I bought mine at the local Menards, but I suspect Home Depot/Lowes also stocks it.
Jim
That stuff is awesome, and I personally prefer to use the “90”. I find myself needing to patch drywall from time to time, and 90 minutes gives PLENTY of time to work with it without drying up in the pan.
(who knew? this stuff is used for projects OTHER than modeling. lol)
Oh, and if you’re looking for a nice smooth finish, and don’t want to use sandpaper that has too much “bite”, you can actually sand this stuff with your fingertip, as long as it hasn’t dried TOO dry. (not moist, but within 24 hours of application.)
I’ve also heard of guys using construction paper to smooth it out, although that may leave fibers embedded. Might be a good thing, if you were using it to create snow cover? I RARELY see pure white snow, it usually has dirt in it.
Thanks guys! So is drywall mud the common solution in this situation, or is it just one of many options?
The quick dry - mix it yourself plaster is definitely better than the pre-mixed, water drying compund.
The first item hardens by chemical reaction.
The second one hardens via evaporation (which is why it shrinks and cracks so badly.
Yeah, I should have mentioned that. Use VERY thin coats, but you can build one on top of another.
I use Dap Fast 'n Final lightweight, non-shrink acrylic spackle.
Nick
I use Dap pre-mixed joint compound and so far so good. One thing you might want to think about is, instead of building up the level of the lower foam, take a rasp and carve into the higher piece to bring it down to grade. This also helps in altering terrain a little for a more interesting look. Sometimes after I have done this I use the Dap to fill any uneven areas that might be under where the cork goes. I also might use a bit of latex caulk to accomplish the same thing while laying cork or track. Good luck.
Another thing is some people like to have a more prototypical look to their sidings, so lower the track from the mainline to sidings by laying the track for the sidings right on the foam with no cork. There obviously needs to be some sort of transition between the levels so some just sand a length of cork down. I do it by cutting out the foam and lowering the cork into the foam. Same result both ways. I just found it much quicker doing it my way. Also no dips and bumps from my lousy sanding.
Brent
Personally I like Scuptamold. It dries fairly slowly. You can apply it fairly thick and it won’t crack. It has a nice groundlike texture.It takes paint well and sticks very well to foam. BILL You can usually get it at craft shops. Walthers also has it.