Not if it’s done well. How did you plan to splice it?
I use terminal strips, others use wire nuts or even just twist and solder. I have worked in Electronics and I am not a fan of suitcase connectors (connectors that pierce the insulation to make the electrical connection) though there are some who disagree with me.
You can also use,‘‘Butt Connectors’’ Trim off a 1/4,from your wire,stick it in the hole,crimp it,do the other wire and your done,most wire strippers will have different connector size slots to do that in the end of the tool,The one I have,has one tooth in that slot that the connector goes into,the tooth goes in to the metal casing of the connector,the wire will never come loose or out that way,plus no need for any tape,the connector is already insulated and they come in many sizes…cheaper than suit case,even wire nuts,no fuzz soldering either…Used them for years,in any wiring job of have ever done,extension cords and so on…
Another alternative to splicing the buss wires together is to use a connector that can be easily taken apart for troubleshooting. I use Anderson Power Pole connectors (powerwerks.com)on my home layouts buss and also at my club. I can isolate sections of each power district to ease the task of troubleshooting a short circuit or other power problem. Power Pole contacts crimp (no soldering) on the wire ends and are covered with a snap together plastic sleeve. No voltage drop. The sleeves come in several colors and are reusable if you have to make changes later.
All connections cause a voltage drop. The key is to limit the drop to the smallest amount so current is not impeded.
The connection needs to be clean, tight and have a good contact area. Crimp, solder, wire nuts and terminals, if done properly will work just fine. Avoid the suit case connector.
Have a few reasons, off the top of my head. Also apply to blade-type terminal strips.:
Nicking a solid wire that may be subject to motion or vibration gives transverse cracks a place to start.
The actual contact area is very small. Translation; high resistance.
Can corrode in humid environments.
High probability of intermittent opens - the most frustrating problem in electrical troubleshooting.
Easy to install improperly.
More expensive than any other alternative.*
To expand on the last - solder only, I can wire a fair-size layout (including panel indicators and a signal system) for the price of one box of suitcase connectors spent on solder, flux and liquid insulation. Using my own home-brew terminal blocks, the total goes up to three boxes - about 1/10th of the number I’d need for the same work.
As for splicing, I personally prefer to connect both ends of every wire (including bus wires) to a terminal, secured by a threaded fastener. The exceptions are soldered connections to the soldering lugs of end users, or the bases of rails (NOT rail joiners.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with electricals as bulletproof as I can make them)
I must admit that I was a bit skeptical when I first read this reply, so I did some reading on this point. Jim is correct in that all breaks in an electrical wire cause a voltage drop, no matter how secure the connection. So, as Jim says, the key is to limit the drop to the smallest amount so current is not impeded.