I’m very new to this… I just found out what HO stands for…
My Dad recently passed away and left his train incompleted. So I’ve taken on the task of completeing it. It’s a Berkshire Valley HO model that’s on a table 12’ by 4’.
I have a lot to learn, but first things first… I have to get this thing into my basement. So I need to split it. I can figure out how to do everything except of course the track. Can someone point me in a direction as to how I might split the track and put it back together while keeping most of my Dad’s work intact?
I assume they must have to do this kind of thing to move trains to shows (Although I haven’t been to a show yet).
I’ve never done it, but it seems you could either: a) split it at the joins, which may take un soldering it. or B) cut the track with a Dremmel tool and use a joiner to reconnect it.
I am pretty new at this too, but I have seen this done somewhere. Have a look underneath the benchwork and see if your father built it in modules; that will make your work a lot easier. Whatever you do, be sure and label the wires very carefully so when you cut them you can splice them back together correctly.
Agreed with both members above. It all depends on how it was put together in the first place. You’ll have to figure out how it is held together, how the scenery substrate is kept suspended, and how it is all wired and screwed/bolted together.
It may be that you will have to use a reciprocating saw to litterally saw the thing into managable pieces. It will be dusty, but if you can salvage it in useful chunks that can be reattached to each other, some hydrocal or plaster cloth, later painted and scenicked to blend back together, should make it all look good.
As for the individual track sections, where they must be severed, wire cutters would be the third choice, second would be a dremel cut-off fine diamond disk (use it patiently…it will take some time), and best choice, if you can get the jaws positioned well, would be a Xuron track cutting tool. You will probably have to solder in most places to close gaps that will be left, no matter which way you go on this. File the solder with jewellers files to get the flange path and railhead smooth.
For sure, label each side of a break in wiring that you must impose on that system.
Good luck…it will be a good learning project, and perhaps leave you with a deeper appreciation for the Old Man.
First of all I am sorry for your loss and hope and pray that you and your family members are coping well.
I am sure that there is great sentimental value in you preserving the layout in the best possible shape for you to continue the work.
Depending on how far progressed the layout is, and the techniques used to make the layout will have some impact on what you have to do.
The elements to consider are:
The trackwork
The wiring
Scenery
Structures
Benchwork
To move a layout of any size, the first thing to do would be to remove and safely pack any structures. Take lots of photos, so you can see where everything went, if you wi***o return the layout to as close to original as possible.
Then youn will need to take stock of how the benchwork is constructed. Are there any points that make logical places to separate the table into smaller sections? Then take a look at the scenery. How is it made? Is it very heavy (plaster?), are there any logical points to break the scenery, to preserve nice sections in one. How many parts do you need to break the layout into to get it into your van/basement.
With these things taken into consideration, plan where the cuts are going to be. Label all wiring very well so that you can put it back together. Use a dremel tool to cut out the track at the point of separation. Maybe a couple of inches each side of the cut point. Then you will have to cut the layout into section as best you can with a saw.
You would be suprised at how easy it can be to patch it back together again. When you get to that point, ask more questions here as there is lots of expertise in these parts.
Something else to think about it you are not care cutting the track with a dremmel tool you will cut the track uneven. I would use something like what I have a link for below.
this way you will be sure to get a good even cut. It is what I use to make all my cuts with.
I’d agree with using the Xuron clippers. However, they will not give you a clean, straight-through cut on both sides. One edge (from the flat side of the clippers) will be very good, but the other will be angled and may not work well in a rail joiner without some additional surgery.
You might want to intentionally make two cuts about 3 inches apart. Throw out the original rail and replace it with a piece of flex-track cut to size. This will allow you to get rid of the gaps from the cut, and it will also give you a little bit of wiggle-room if fitting the layout back together doesn’t put everything back exactly in the same alignment.
If nothing else, this will be a start in building the skills that you’ll need to complete your Dad’s layout. Oh, and look around in his toolbox. The Xuron clippers look like diagonal cutting pliers with an orange handle. If your Dad had a pair, and chances are pretty good that he did, then they’ll work well in your hands, too.
Thus far, I agree with what has been stated thus far.
It might be a bit late, but here is a couple of suggestions on the subject as far as “splitting” the layout goes:
in the split areas, mount terminal blocks for the wiring. Lable ALL wires. This can be done a number of ways but I’ve found the sticky wire markers to work the best. I have some that my grandfather had used from 1950 still holding on! These can be found at Radio Shack or Home Depot
Make a wiring diagram of the control panel. Nothing could be worse then tring to figure out what wires go to what power pack or switch
Be completely certain that anything that can be removed from the layout is.
Take extreme care in moving the layout once everything is off. use 2 or more people if you have to. One thing I found on my pike is that my dad and grandfather had used nails to hold the plywood to the 2x4’s. This works as long as you don’t move it. On my new layout, I will use wood screws.
If you have the ability to place the pieces on top of one another (either in transport or storage) be careful of the turnouts. These pieces of track DO NOT punishment very well!!
Just some thoughts. Keep us informed as to how you make out!
I agree with what’s been posted so far, and only have one thing to add. This is kind of a one shot deal, so the more planning you put into it before you start cutting, the better the end results will be.
My mom passed away about a year and a half ago, and I sort of took up her hobby of growing tomatoes each summer. It helps bridge the gaps left behind. It’s hard to work on something she enjoyed so much without remembering what she taught me and even feeling her presence in the garden. I’m passing on as much as I can to my kids, maybe you can do the same with your dad’s train layout.
I plan on moving my layout in the next couple of years. If your dad built the layout in modules, I would drill holes in each module BEFORE removing anything. Once you have a pair or three holes drilled through each module, glue a wooden dowel into the holes. Glue only one end of the dowel. Once the glue sets up, you can cut the rails, scenery, etc. The dowels will make realining the modules easier when you’re ready to put everything back together.
I forgot about that one. The 3 “modules” of my pike are bolted. The bolt holes are so tight that you have to “screw” them in. The same goes for the legs. It’s a bit tidious, but they are in alignment that way!
Get yourself a chalk line. You know, the kind that contractors use to make marks to align/cut things with. Attach the chalk line to one side of the layout, making sure it’s lined up with the line separating each module. Attach the chalk line to the other side of the layout, again lining it up with the line separating the modue. Snap the line, making a “cut” line across the modules. To cut through scenery, I would use a deep bladed razor saw. Then cut the rails. I would use a dremel with a cutoff disk.
If your doors (leaving/destination) are wide enough to take the module out with the legs attached, I would leave the legs attached.
Once all of the track/scenery cuts have been made for the pair of modules, I would clamp the modules together using c-clamps. Then unbolt the modules, leaving the legs on. Hopefully, before you get to this step, you’ve removed your buildings or any loose items from the layout. Mark the legs and where they’re attached, so you can put the same leg in the same location. Unless your dad used a template to drill the holes, it’ll be easier to match each leg to its location.
It helps to have a friend for this step. Loosen the clamps and lie the module down on its end or side, whichever is more convenient and will cause the least amount of damage. Remove the legs and move the module out of the way, and put the legs together in a pile. Start process over on next module.
I found that some 2x2s are helpful for the actual moving. Cut the lengths slightly longer than the tallest structure/screnery on the module. Drill a 1/4" hole in the corners of each module and attach one end of the 2x2 to it and load it onto the truck/trailer. Put the next module on the truck/trailer and attach it to the other ends of the 2x2s. This will keep the modules from banging around reducing damage. You could also use some 1x2s and attach the modules to each other on the sides.
Reverse the entire procedure when you get the layout to its new location. This procedure works. I
Thanks very much for your responses, they will help a great deal.
I’ve actually move the set from my Dad’s basement to my Garage.
His house is bigger than mine so I was able to get it out of his basement in one piece
detaching only the legs and the side control panels. I’ve put it back together and have it running again
.
Like I had mentioned, he hadn’t completed it… seems all but the scenery which will make this task a little simpler.
I’m going to split the set in the middle in two 4X6 pieces. I think I have a path to cut the track.
I’ve taken lots of photos of everything and am taking my time to analyze this.
However I’m in Canada near Toronto so I have the summer to do this before the winter hits again… I don’t want to keep this in the cold.
I think I’ll try the Dremmel tool. It sounds like the cleanest cutter and Baker’s cutting knife scares the hell outta me :).
I really like Medina1128’s dowel (or bolts) placement idea for replacing the modules.
But it sounds like if that fails, then I could fall back on MisterBeasley’s flex track.
Thanks again for all of your responses. I think I’ll be hanging around here a little more often.
One Final thing, Flange Path?.. Turnouts?.. I’ve gots me some more learnin to do.