I like using a rattle can over my Testors air brush…Like a air brush it takes skill to use a rattle can and practice makes perfect.
I fully agree that you should use the better brands of spray paint…Personally I avoid Testors rattle can paint.
The only paint that I ever use as spray paint is Dullcote. Like I’ve said, I don’t want to spend the money on an airbrush as I have been in this hobby and R/C Airplanes for more than 50 years and have never felt an airbrush to be necessary. Up until recently, I have found Testors Dullcote in the spray can to work just fine. Lately, however, I have found the quality of this product to be lacking.
So, what products have you guys found are good replacemnets for Testors Dullcote?
I still use Testors Dullcote but,not their rattle can paint since I never had much luck with it.
I do prefer “fresh” Dullcote so,I add that to my on line orders as needed…
I am in the airbrush family like Model Maker and Doctor Wayne, and do the same procedures, although I use only Solvent Style paints like Scalecoat, Scalecoat II and old Floquil. I have used rattle cans to paint underframes, weights, etc.
I have a spray booth and ventilation system to get the vapors and smell out of the house along with using a proper mask to prevent inhaling the toxic fumes.
I did have a friend who was a custom painter who on straight black locomotives like NYC’s would use Floquil Spray cans and his results were outstanding.
Rick J
When I first got my air brush, I felt the same way. I would save up paint projects and do a big bunch of them at a time so I would not have to clean the air brush only once. After a time, I realized that it was not that big of a deal. Just run some clear solvent through the air brush, shut off the compressor, remove and wipe off the needle on a paper towel with solvent, remove and check that the nozzle is clear - if not blow through it one or twice to remove the last bit of liquid. The time is about the same as I took to type this (I type slow [:D])
These days I think in terms of how much not painting something will hold up an ongoing project, even if it means painting only one thing.
The biggest thing about getting into air brushing is the cost. For a good brush and compressor you will spend maybe $100 to $150. I use a Badger 200 air brush. Don’t forget some kind of ventilation to remove fumes and paint dust.
This thread got me to look at paint booths. Micromark has some in the $400 range, while there are some on eBay for around $80. With that wide a range, what are the things to look for? For the average model railroader who might use an airbrush for an hour or so a week, is the expense of a good one overkill? Or, are there intermediate-priced units between “toy” and “professional” models?
I built mine out of left over pressboard from an entertainment center we junked, the most expensive part was the Dayton Blower motor, but I bought that back in 1988.
The furnace filter is changeable.
Rick J
I have found that Scalecoat makes very good spray cans of paint in various RR colors. What I like to do is shake vigorously then put the can in hot water (not boiling) then shake again. This gives a very smooth finish when sprayed on the piece of equipment. I follow the same steps with the flat finish I normally use.
Note: Not associated with Scalecoat.
Great thread and a good variety of answers.
I’ve had experiences with all 3 paint methods that have been mentioned so far: Rattle can, Airbrush, Paintbrush.
I used Testors and Pactra spray cans from the late 1970s-early 80s. I had a tendency to orange peel my jobs until I disciplined my self to apply thin coats. With practice, I became a “decent” painter with various brands of spray can paints.
A friend of mine suggested that I try an airbrush so I bought a Paasche" VL back then for $80. That was one of the best investments I ever made as it lasted me over 20 years! I enjoyed the ability to control the viscosity (thickness/thinness) of my paint as well as to manipulate my airbrush’s fan pattern so that I can spray a pattern ranging from a wide area to an ultra thin line. To me, this offered a clear advantage over spray cans.
I junked that VL recently only because it fell on concrete and was beyond repair. I now own two VLs and the new Alclad2 airbrush which is also an excellent performer.
Gave up the rattlecans and still have a can of Testor’s Dullcote that’s almost full…and is over 20 years old! I’m amazed that it is still pressurized.
NP’s post reminded me that I still enjoy painting with bristle brushes as well. Although I airbrush the body colors on to my models; I enjoy weathering the underframes and trucks with Pollyscale acrylic paints artists Taklon paint brushes. I thin the paint into “washes” and let gravity and capillary action do their thing. Additionally, I plan on painting all of my undecorated figures with paint brushes using the brifalye technique.
[8D]
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This discussion isn’t about brush vs airbrush. There will always be applications where nothing can beat an old fashioned brush. When painting figures, I prime with my airbrush, but paint with a brush. Same for small detail work onjust about evrrything else. You can make an inexpensive paint both yourself out of plywood, furnace filters, and a bathroom vent fan that you can get at any home improvement store. The hardest part is wiring the fan to a plug, which should be child’s play for anyone who can install a decoder.
Bob;
I am thinking on this one or the one at Harbor Freight for about the same price.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html
Mr Beasley;
What are your thoughts?
Broadway Lion;
You are the Best!
Everyone else;
Thank you for your insight!
Cheers!
[8D]
See if you can find spare jars for it.
I use rattle cans for buildings and bridges (I even use the cheapest flat black for under-painting bridges). By the time all is weathered, you can’t tell the difference. That being said, when it was time to paint a steam engine, out came the airbrush!!! As long as you are using flat paint, rattle cans are fine for most things, any other finish, forget it (except for Model Masters lusterless spray, even though some say it is the same product, never had a problem with it but Dull-coat, that’s another story).