As I have recently started to make my own decals, I was spraying Krylon Gloss on a decal paper sheet I had just printed when I saw several drops fall on to the sheet. Due to the liquid state of the spray on the sheet, they looked like soft water rings, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I solved the problem by holding the can off the paper at a 45 degree angle and continued to spray, which prevented further occasional drops and allowed the rings to settle back into the coating cover. After letting the sheet set for 15 minutes, a smooth covering with no rings was the final result. Checking the Krylon can, it appeared I was closer to empty than full, which might be the reason for the drops. You learn something new every day in this hobby! Cedarwoodron
Hi cedarwoodron:
I wonder if the problem was caused by a partially clogged tip. Since you said that the can was almost empty it would be safe to say that you had used it before. Given the clarity of the Krylon Gloss any build up on the tip might not be very noticeable.
Dave
That may well be, as I generally notice and clean colored paint can tips before spraying. One additional method change is that I am buying 2 cans next trip to Walmart, not just one, so that I will have a ready backup at hand. Cedarwoodron
Have you used Krylon for decals before? I’ve always used Liquid Decal Film, which paints on with a brush. I generally get some bleeding of the decal colors, which I try to control by keeping the paper flat and putting weights on it to make sure it doesn’t curl at the edges.
I’d be interested to hear (and see) how yours turn out.
Sounds like these decal sheets WEREN’T the Testor’s one, as those require a special Testor’s decal sealant spray before any Gloss or Dull coats.
Which brand of decal sheets were these, then, and how decent do they look (compared to the so-so Testor’s).
These are Bel brand decal papers, and I print from an AutoCad drawing (raster) I create and then scale appropriately. There is no bleeding of colors or black ink, line edges are precisely defined. I do make about four passes over each printed partial sheet (I trim the 8.5x11 after printing so I can reuse the remainder later on). I bought the clear inkjet decal paper online, a much better bargain than Testors, and the Krylon Acrylic Gloss at Walmart. My latest decaling photos are on Tyco Collectors Forum, a Walthers Scale Test Car in orange with GN lettering. I can post photos directly there. Cedarwoodron
I’ve been experimenting with InkJet Decals as well.
My last set, lightly sealed did bleed when I applied them.
I used the Vidachrome Graphics, & it took my off the shelf HP Printers ‘print’ extremely well, very crisp & clean printout! However, I used their sealer & I may have appied it too lightly. My first set bled in the dish & on the model. I could not determine if it was from the top or bottom. However, I tried using some excess for dry transfers & noticed that my alignment tape pulled some face sheeting off in layers, so it appears to me to be a multilayer sheet, as my dry transfers went through the process just fine (& were not torn where the tape pulled shiny flakes from).
One thing that holds me back from really ‘sealing’ my decals, are;
- Bleed from the seal coat.
- Penetration of the sealer to the transfer sheet. (preventing the wetting seperation).
I have applied the included sealer to a second sheet & was thinking of using DullCoat to top it up.
So, more to follow on that front.
Any suggestions or similar observations?
Comments or Concerns?
Thanks in advance! (& thanks for the thread, to discuss this)!
The settings that the Bel decal papers specify are HP premium photo paper (for the type of paper) and “best” for print quality. I would presume that other printers and paper manufacturers-Canon, etc- would have an equivalent paper type to the HP one I mention here. As far as bleeding, some research in the “search our community” tool on the right margin of this webpage brought up several posts where heavier spray coverage was preferred, which is the advice I followed. I am using the Krylon Gloss because it is an acrylic spray, not lacquer, as per advice from my good friend, AntonioFP45, who is quite knowledgeable about such stuff. One thing I believe- the gloss overspray IS the decal coating, and therefore, the thickness of the decal- how “proud” it sits on the model surface- is the variable you control with spray coating. The durability of that coating is then, a function of the quantity/ thickness of the coating, but at some point it may become too thick. I would ask some other regular posters- AntonioFP45, HOn3Critter?- who may be more knowledgeable about DIY decal making to offer their comment on the bleeding issue. Based on my experience, I will re-purchase these same papers (Bel brand) again when I get down to one sheet remaining. They perform like commercial decal paper (Microscale).
My prefference is to spray on a light coat to “fix” the printing, let it dry and then add a couple more generous coats (not so much that it runs) letting it dry between coats.
I do prefer Microscale’s Liquid Decal Film as it is the same as the decal paper. It softens around details (rivets, etc) easier than laquer and acrylic. It’s great for repairing old decals as well.
Jay,
Thanks for the suggestion! I forgot to mention that applyability is a major concern, as well.
I once tried sealing some film with Future, after applying dry transfers, & they did not release from the carrier sheet. I believe it was because I actually fractured the film during the burnishing of the dry transfers, & it allowed the Future to soak through & bond to the carrier sheet. I was also reminded of it when I did a set that I did not seal & they fractured when I wetted them out, it told me I had broken the film during the burnishing excercize.
Say, I know you are an AirBrush guy, do you spray ‘Liquid Decal Film’ or are you hand brushing them individually?
I ask because I pack my prints so tightly I almost can’t cut them out, & would like an Airbushable/Sprayable solution.
Please let me know, I want to learn more about that!
And Thanks Forward!
I both spray and hand paint the film on. For airbrushing, I thin the liquid decal film with my thinner mix (80/20 water/alcohol). I use MS clear decal film for use with dry transfers and never have a problem. Are you using too much pressure when burnishing? If you don’t have an actual burnishing tool, use a soft lead pencil. If the decal film is glossy, try giving it a coat of dullcote before applying the dry transfers. “Gloss for Decals, Flat/Matte for Dry Transfers”.
Jay,
Thank you for the excellent tips, I will put those into practice!
I appreciate it!