Haven’t been around much lately, lurking mostly, but I have made some progress to section one of my 6 section layout.
I did some work on a Bachmann GP30 before the weekend shutdown.
Before:
After:
Nice work here as always. I think it was last week that I saw a thread talking about guys that post nothing but kooky FP40 pictures…which reminded me that I have a couple of these guys from Spectrum. I consider them so-so runners but that thread prompted me to take them out.
And this is just a couple of CN Kato diesels “posterized” in photoshop, because I like the effect.
The latest addition to the T&NM fleet: 
Ahora que se ve muy bien [tup]
Spent a good part of the yesterday taking about 50 pics to make a Panorama of the Philly skyline for one of my upcoming backdrops. Been playing in Photoshop and here’s what I have so far. The original is over 1 gig in size. This backdrop will be 36 inches by 10 feet. so the high rise buildings will be about 10 inches or so. My wife works for a sign company so the printing on vinyl will be pretty cheap.
Jeff, what happened. that looks …ah you fill in the blank. I don’t want to get shot up posting a negatove comment. Try dry brushing. Use testors model master rust paint. dip a brush that has been trimmed with a flat tip. I use the .25 cent el cheepo cut down so that ther is about 1/4 inch of bristles give or take. wipe the majority of the paint off and “whisk it” lightly over the truck details. gives a really nice effect as u can see in the posted pics
That old engine hasn’t seen a wash rack in years. Is Model Master acrylic? I can’t use enamels unless I use them outside. I have a very bad respiratory reaction to enamels. That’s why I went to the trouble of getting several enamel colors I like made in cheap latex. I could have had them made into acrylics but I don’t have much money to play with.
JW -Ay Carumba!! Not meaning to pile on, but that is just not good. You rust colors on the trucks are way, way off and the “dirt”(???) doesn’t look real either. Did you work off a prototype photo or just make it as you went along? The HIll Lines took great pride on their loco fleet and would have never let a locomotive get in this condition.
Yeah jeff they make it in acrylic as well.
Yes Silver Pilot, I know the colors are off. They show up brighter under the flash than they do under my CF lights. The rust and dirt is actually quite dark and realistic looking. Also, the Jim Hill lines have nothing to do with the loco. It’s an L&A takeover and they don’t care how the power looks, just as long as it runs.
Thanks. That’s what I needed to know.
This is how it looks under the CF lights:
Had a fun visit this evening with Randy Gustafson, who was in town on a consulting project.
He brought along his well-traveled Climax B, which he kitmingled out of three tuna cans, a car battery and a 40 watt light bulb…
Here he is framing up a shot at the Elkins engine house.
It looks small even compared to the diminutive Atlas Shay.
It runs amazingly smooth, and when he described the bones he used to build it, it was even more impressive. I had a great time running a couple trains and shooting the breeze for a little while. Hope to do it again soon.
I also spent some time today working on the Ridgeley Roundhouse. It’s now fleshed out to its full complement of 20 stalls.
I have to finish fabricating the roof sections, then it’s on to the back walls and windows…
Lee
Sorry, even under different lighting it still looks bad. If you know the colors are off, then why do you keep using them? Get the proper colors/paint and you’ll get proper results. The Hills Lines have everything to do with it - it still says “Great Northern” on it, doesn’t it?
I see You have received some harsh comments on Your weathering job Jeffrey,Here are some Rules I go by:
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This is MY railroad
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I Make the rules
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If You don’t like the way I build or operate My railroad,Consult RULE #1
I got a lot done over the weekend, and took some pictures. But, who wants to look at shots of pink foam with a bit of roadbed glued on, held in place by scraps of wood, half-empty ballast bottles and a 2-foot level? We’ve been there and done that.
This is a new photo of an old scene, a Model Power engine house.
My philosophy exactly! Trouble is, some can’t seem to get it.
Rule #1 goes out the window when you post on the internet. All thoughts and photos are subject to some sort of reply, be it criticism or praise. And maybe some is cruel, but some is meant to be helpful. We are all adults here, so don’t throw in that rule one crap.
JW is correct, I have take dozens of digital photos of model, then when downloaded, have come out the wrong shade, so it probably looks okay.
JW, it’s not the shade, it’s the application. Remember, less is more,do it in layers. If you’re using acrylics, thin them with windshield wash, amonia or just water. Also, get yourself a can of clear, flat finish from wallyworld. Take the windshields out and kill the shine. If this is to represent a second hand unit, that sees no or little maintenance,it should be faded and grimy. Try chalks also, blacks around doors and top, browns on trucks and fuel tanks, and white by battery boxes. Use the internet, get some ideas,get creative. Don’t just sit on your ass and bemoan the critics, learn my boy, it’s up to you. mike h.
I hear what you’re saying and I agree with every bit of it and I have no problem with it. The critics don’t bother me. If they did I wouldn’t even bother posting. As it is, their advice, whether positive or negative, is information that I can make use of. I take the advice I can use and do what I can to improve. Look at my weathering attempts during the past 5 years and you’ll see that there’s a definite improvement. I think I’m doing pretty good for someone who has problems with color blindness and no matter how it seems to look I do make an effort to improve. If I didn’t post photos of what I do I wouldn’t be getting all this great advice. As for chalks, I gave up on those years ago as most of it seems to just vanish when the fixative is applied. A friend on another site is sending me some Bragdon weathering powders to try. If I like them I’ll see about getting the whole set. He’s already instructed me in their use and I can see that they have some promise.
I’ve been using AIM weathering powders for some time now. I really like the results, but you’re right - they do wash out a lot when you spray them with fixatives like Dull-Cote. So, I have to over-weather most of the time, and then hope it comes out right after I hit it with the spray.
I’ve never had much luck using a brush and paint for weathering, but the powders give me the effect I want without going to an airbrush.