Recently, I made some 164-64 logs for my 364 log loader. I used poplar dowel stock. When I stained them with Minwax, I could not get a deep color, and the stain dried glossy. Did I do something wrong?
How did you prep the dowels before staining? Did you sand them. Did you use a stain prep product (like a sanding selaer). What specific MinWax product did you use?
Chuck,
Thanks for the reply. After I cut the dowels to length, I sanded them with 120 grit to knock down the cut ends and any rough spots. I wiped the dust off with a damp cloth and let the dowels dry. Then, I applied Minwax Dark Walnut with a clean white rag.
OK, was the Minwax aqueous based, oil based, or a combination stain/finish (aka polyshades)?
Oh, and poplar’s staining properties are all over the map. It can take a lot of stain or almost none.
Did tou just sand the ends. It is possible the dowels have a sealer applied to them. You would have to sand the whole dowel
Also, did you stir the stain well. The MinWax oil based product can settle/seperate with the pigment in a thin almost taffy like layer on the bottom of the can. You almost need to scrape the bottom of the can to start to break it up and then stirring will mix it well. Their gel stain is excellent but the fumes are a killer. I will only use that product outside when the weather is reasonably warm.
Try spraying one with dull coat. If it works, do the rest.
Jim
Three separate products are called stain. There’s an oil based stain, a water based stain and a varnish stain. If your logs dried glossy you probably used the varnish stain.
Hardware and paint shops generally sell oil based or varnish stains. Water based stains are a specialty item try Constantines or somebody like them.
You should sand with 120 then dampen the wood with water and let dry. the water will swell the loose ends of the wood fibers and your log will look fuzzy. Then sand again with a 320 paper. Brush on a water based stain and let dry. Note: the end grain of your dowells will take up stain much faster than the sides. You should dilute it to get an even color.
The water based stain doesn’t seal the wood so you can repeat the staining until you reach the desired color. Postwar logs came with no additional finish but you can cover with a sanding wood sealer and rub down with fine 600 paper to get the dull effect while still sealing the wood.
All good information posted here. Poplar sometimes does not stain well. Its a dense wood that doesnt absorbe well.
A simple way to make them dark is to make a stain out of dark brown paint. Even the little craft paint bottles will work. Thin the paint with water and paint on the dowels. I’d start with equal parts paint and water and experiment from there.
Since you have stained yours already i would sand them well with the 120 sandpaper and then apply the paint/stain.
The main problem you are having is the minwax is a transparent stain. The glossy look is due to the stain just sitting on the surface and not being absorbed by the wood. To get the look of the original Lionel logs you need a pigmented stain. By thinning paint you are making a pigmented, or what I like to call a paint stain. It has a slight bit of opacity to make it dark.
I use this technique in my work to match old stained wood that has darkened with age. Or on new wood, like poplar, that will not stain to a deep color.
I’d like to thank everyone for their replies. The stain I used was oil based, and I made sure to stir it until the sludge on the bottom of the can mixed into the stain. Does anyone know of a stain that is close to what Lionel used?
Paul,
Thanks for the info. I didn’t see your reply until I finished typing.