Stalled out!!!

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I have sort of stalled out on my layout. I have two questions.

1.) I was thinking of installing the Tortoise switch machines, but to a newbie the task seems so daunting that I am having second thoughts. I am thinking of just using the Atlas snap switches and controlling them (I suppose the usual way) with the provided control and DC power. Any comments?

2.) If ultimately Tortoise switches are utlized, so you lay and fix the track first or do you have to install the machine first and then the track?

Thanks.

dcg

2

I think in the end you’ll like the Totoises better. It isn’t that hard to put them in, once you learn it.

The best way seems to me to lay the track down, but don’t fix the turnout. Mark where the hole goes, remove the turnout, drill the hole. Then put the tunout back and install the Tortoise. The directions with the Tortoise will lead you through the exact order. It is possible to put the Tortoise in after the track is down, but it is a lot fharder to get the spot for the hole marked, and to drill up from below without damaging ties.

I’ve only done a few, there may be more expert opinions.

3

Nice thing about the tortoise is they retain most of their value, even after use and you will move them from layout to layout so the same machine you use now will still be viable if lets say you got to the other extreme ( from snap switches to hand laying track ).

4

I’ve got a mix of Atlas snap-switches, Atlas Custom-lines, and Peco. All are run with twin-coil switch machines. I’ve discovered that I am personally very unhappy with the non-prototypical appearance of the switch machines, and I’m working on imaginative ways to hide them. The Peco switch machines mount under the track, and I’m very happy with them.

If you are interested in turnout position indicator lights, either as signals on your layout or for your control panel, then you’ll want to know that Tortoise provides contacts for these, while both Atlas and Peco require an “upgrade” of some sort to do the same thing. Atlas has a significant price advantage, but once you start adding in things like this, and you think about the extra complexity of wiring, then the Tortoise doesn’t seem quite as expensive anymore.

Atlas remote-control turnouts come with pushbutton controllers. These are not highly regarded by the MR community, as they have a tendency to fail, sometimes burning out the motor in the process. A simple single-pole, double-throw momentary contact toggle switch is much better.

5

I have found that 99% of solving a complex problem is starting. I just replaced two exterior doors and casings in my home and had never tackled anything like that before. I told my wife to prepare for an all day job that wouldn’t end at night until we could close and lock the front door ( translate - stay off my back and don’t even think of asking how much longer). To my surprise at noon we went grocery shopping. I set aside a Quality Craft PRR caboose for over 15 years because assembling the end rails appeared monumental. When I finally got around to it I was done in no time.

6

I have found that 99% of solving a complex problem is starting.

Excellent advice!!! Thanks for the input. I will put my fear aside and take a stab at it.

7

I persionally find that a simple mechanical mechanism is best for me. Ground throws(nice ones) in eazly reached arias and a lever and cable to the edge in harder to reach arias. In my book the less electricty the better! Good luck and don’t wory.

8

Atlas switch machines can be mounted under the table. I mount all of mine that way and have re-used them several times. I find they will also operate the spring loaded switches. I agree and also use manual switch throws for close/easy acess switches and most all yard switches.

I doubt the tortise machines are much harder to mount than the atlas, or any other for that matter.

9

When I install a new/replacement turnout I always do all of the necessary hole drilling as though I am going to install a Tortise. By that I mean even if installing a ground throw I still perform all the drilling for a stall machine.

Then when or if I change my mind and want to replace the ground throw at some a later date is is a simple matter of removing the ground throw and installing the Tortise.

This eliminates the danger of damaging the turnout with the drill bit after the turnout has been installed.

10

Ditto! [#ditto] Or just modifying the ground throw.

Finding the tiny hole in the throubar from underneath is easier if you have an eagle eyed helper topside.

There are only two small issues with the tortoise and they are;

  1. If you have foam over plywood, the actuator wire may be too short. You can replace it with piano wire. Get a size or two thicker. I think I used 0.039" but don’t quote me. I’m a bit brain dead after re-roofing my garage all day.

  2. The mounting holes in the machine are tiny. You can use #4 screws, carefully drill them for #6’s (overkill), use double stick tape (I don’t trust it), adhesive caulk or even velcro.

Good luck,

Karl

11

I started out with Tyco and Atlas switch machines…but eventually switched to Tortoise machines. The old ones weren’t bad, but after awhile, the points would no longer stay in position. I also tired of hearing the things “snap” when the points moved.

Yeah, the Tortoise machines aren’t cheap, but I’ve never had a problem with them. I have about a dozen or so on my layout. They have their own power bus, and are all controlled with heavy-duty slide switches and panel lights from Radio Shack. Power comes from a pair of old Bachmann train-set transformers.

Mounting the Tortoise can be a pain at times. In fact, one installation took me the better part of 3 hours. And no, I’m not kidding. This was mainly because there was a table leg in the way, and I had to shorten it. Since I use L-girder construction, getting clearance was a case of simply lopping off the leg’s top, and then redrilling the mounting hole (gotta love sectional layouts!) After that, drilling the 4 holes in the layout and mounting the machine was no problem :slight_smile:

One thing I don’t do, is leave the track in place. Rather than risk destroying a turnout, I mark the throw rod hole, then remove the turnout. That way, I can drill from the top side of the layout. Once the hole is made, an x-acto knife makes short work of trimming the cork roadbed.

Once that’s done, I’ll position the drilling template underneath the layout, and drill the holes. Securing the machine only takes a minute, as does bending the throw rod. In most cases, the throw rod template is right-on.

Rather than deal with the throw rod falling out of the machine, screw that to the throw arm. This is where I cheat a little. I leave the throw rod long…and then slip it through the turnout’s hole. I do it this way, since once the machine is mounted, it’s sometimes a pain to line things up.

Eventually, I plan on having machines under all of my turnouts. However, that’s a bit expensive right now…so I’m just doing one or two at a time.

12

I have some tortises and they are OK. There are options.

Unless you need remote electrical switching, the Humpyard switch levers are wonderful, sort of difficult but not all that bad. I have four and will use more.

If you lay your switches first, you can drill holes from the bottom with a forsner bit and a depth stop. I can explain more if useful.

Using larger activating wire is a good idea. None of mine worked well with the wire that came with the tortises. The ones that I have not exchanged, I just hand finish.