Need some help.What would cause a new engine to stall.I have a BLI SW7 with paragon sound.My track is DCC.All my other engines work perfect.They are all bigger engine’S.I use all diesel’s.The wheels looks clean and I tried alcohol.I orderd one of these and the first one diid the same thing so I sent it back and this one does the same thing.Start’s up then satlls then starts then stall.All my other BLI run great…Is this common with small switcher.Thanks BOB
I’m not familiar with the BLI engine but I had a similar problem caused by the electrical pickup wipers not pressing against the wheels enough. A little bending of the wiper and the problem went away.
Enjoy
Paul
Is it stalling on switches or crossovers, or everywhere ? Much more detail needed.
If it is stalling on switches, it’s probably because of the short wheelbase and insulated turnout frogs.
Do you have the traction tire wheelset or the non traction tire wheelset installed? They are a little on the light side and a bit touchy, and with the traction tires there are only 3 axles picking up power instead of 4.
–Randy
I have a P2K SW8 that would not run more than a few inches on my layout. It came with one axle that had the traction tires. I replaced them with a factory-supplied (I had to call Walthers) normal axle, and instantly the locomotive ran much better.
If your track is the least bit uneven, dirty, or your wipers not making consistent contact, you will have many frustrating moments with these tiny switcher. Going over frogs with fill is a real killer as it levers the entire frame upward and you will lose contact with the one remaining wheel that you need to complete the circuit to the motor.
Crandell
It does stall on switches but also on straights and curves.I use Atlas custom line.No problem with other locos.Have no idea if any of the wheels or traction.I just called BLI and they said just send it to them and they will fix it free.So thanks for the help.I let them mess with it.Buy the way all the wiper blades look good.Bob
How clean is your track? It can look clean and still be dirty. The larger wheel base locos may have enough of a wheel spread that the problem doesn’t show up with them. If you clean your track with a Bright Boy or some other kind of abrasive then that’s likely to be your main culprit. You need tyo check the wipers also to see if they’re pressing against the wheels hard enough.
I just posted essentially the same advice on another thread.
What you have on your hands is a classic Sherlock Holmes case, “Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbably, must be the truth.” It’s also analogous to Edison’s (supposed) discovery of the incandescent lamp.
You have to keep trying things, and eliminating them from the list of possible problems. Eventually, you will discover the solution. Unfortunately, this process requires that you be meticulous, patient, and above all never, ever, ever make an assumption. If you think something is true, test it and make sure.
We are happy to help, but we must have data (“We cannot make bricks without clay”). Answer as many of our questions as you can with accurate, factual responses. You’ll figure it out eventually.
BTW, since two locos from the same (reputable) supplier have the same issue, I start with the loco as a likely source.
As Jeff reccomeneded, try cleaning your track. I use paint thinner, as alcohol doesn’t seem to clean it as good as thinner.
I had all six axle diesels and they all ran fine, and then when I got my first small switcher with 4 axles, it had stalling issues due to dirty track.
Amen.
Switchers and dirty track go together like oil and water. Try cleaning the track.
Rich
So, Fender,
Have you tried any of these suggestions? Did any of them solve the problem (my money is on dirty track)?
Inquiring minds want to know…
My track is brand new atlas 100. The sw7 is new.Their is no dirty track.Sent the sw7 back to BWL…But thanks guys for all the help.BOB
Even brand new track can have residue and stuff on it.
I clean all new track when I first get it to be sure.
Bob
When you get the BLI engine back - it probably will act the same way!
Now you will be fustrated and possibly blame BLI for not fixing the engine!
NOW - How do I know this ?
I have the same engines on my layout !
They are the worst units for not wanting to run.
Clean track and wheels are a must!
Just because your track may be NEW out of the package it will still have accumulated dirt on it you can’t see.
Wipe a paper towel along the rails and I bet you will get some BLACK streaks in the towel !
Once the wheels and rails are REALLY clean the engines will begin to run OK!
They will never run like your larger units as they just don’t have the same weight to break through the crud!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Not to pick on you, but in an earlier post, I cautioned against making assumptions as a sure fire way not to solve your problem.
This is a classic example. As others have pointed out, stuff comes from the factory with all kinds of oil and gunk on it. Then you handled both the track, and the loco, most likely, getting things ready to run and might have gotten oil or gunk from your hands on the track. Unless you’re really good or have a really small layout, even that new track sat out for a few days before you ran locos on it.
Clean your track and the locos wheel thoroughly. Then come back and say, “I’ve cleaned things up, and I still have the problem. What now?”
We can help, but we need your help.
By now I’m sure you get the message about dirty track, so here are two new ideas. First, check your rail joints for continuity. I had a dead switch because I painted the rails and by capillary action the paint seeped into the rail joiners and killed the electrical connection. My engines would stall and lurch. The lurch occurs when the metal wheel of a trailing car hits the rail junction and completes the electrical connection. The cure was to clean the paint from the rail ends and install new joiners. Check them even if they are not painted.
Second, does the engine run better it you press your finger straight down on top of it? If so, it would suggest the wheels are not making proper contact. The culprit may be not the engine, but a very slight imperfection in the lay of the rails. The same switch that I reenergized with new joiners also had a slight bow in it. It was so slight it was visible only when I placed a straightedge over it and used magnifying glasses to view it from the side. The cure was to drive a tack into the center of the switch to pull it down to level. Extreme care is needed because it is easy to drive the tack too far, bend the crossties and distort the switch.
My SW7 is not very flexible and does not conform well to variations in the trackwork. Check not only switches, but also the rest of the track for slight variations. Check them crosswise as well as along their length since variations between left and right rails can cause rocking and loss of contact with a small engine.
I hope this helps.
In addition to making the track the best you can including powering the frogs, I have been thinking of “work arounds” such as spring loaded wiper shoes and or a permanent trailing boxcar with all eight wheels picking up power. I’m using DC but thinking of DCC and would just love to make my 040T just crawl. Sorry that I can’t offer a better suggestion but then I need help as much as anybody.
Geohan
Since you sent the unit back you can’t try this but in the future just clean one section with a bright boy or fine sand paper 300-600 grit. Then hold the loco with your hand and increase the throttle. if the loco runs fine while you’re holding it with no problems then you have track issues. Also since you say other loco’s are running fine on the new track, exactly how old is the new track? Time does seem to pass pretty quickly. Also after a few months, what seemed to be good track work will start to fail if you don’t have sufficient feeders installed.
Well I have plenty of feeders.Overkill reallly.Also I soldered every joint pretty much.I just think those switchers are a pain in the ass.Won’t be buying anymore for sure.Don’t need the headache.Thanks BOB