Hello all! I’m excited because I’m about to begin construction of my first bench for the HO track plan attached below. I’m new to model RRing, but have been in involved in RC planes, helis and boats for 3 decades. I’m retired now and have the time and space to tackle a mid size layout like the one below. But I’ve got a few questions to get cleared up. So I need a sanity check on my approach.
So to begin, I purchased the Model RR book for benchwork and several mags and have been reading and digesting all kinds of stuff in past weeks. My approach is to use an open grid style bench with 2x2 legs, 1x2 braces and 1x4 frames, and the bench topped with 1/4 ply and foam sheets totaling around 3" of foam. My question has to do with transferring the track plan to the bench. I’ve read different approaches in this forum on how to do it. But my thinking is that since I already have a fairly good idea of dimensions, why can’t I build the bench, cut the foam loosely to cover it, then starting with the main line, lay the actual track out on the foam to see how it will fit, then trace its position. I plan to purchase Kato quicktrak to use. Kato has curved track for 22.5" radiuses, and the plan description calls for 23" radiuses. This seems a more direct approach rather than making a full scale template. What am I not seeing?
Also, would like to run two main lines side by side, to run two trains in either direction at the same time. In general, how should I approach this? How much width should I allow for each track? Again, I’m thinking that if I have the track and can position it for fit for the 3 curves, then I could connect the rest of the main line and turnouts as desired using the same approach. Your thoughts. Thanks for all responses. Rich
But some general comments - I use tape measures from known points on benchwork to locate curve centers, then draw in arcs of the appropriate radii using a radius bar. I make sure the arcs are longer than the actual curves will be. I use either a straight-edge (up to 6’ - the longest I have) or a chalk line to lay out the tangents between the curves. All those lines are track centerlines, by the way.
How wide to space the curves depends on the radii of the curves and the equipment you’ll be running. I just stick with 2" centers (I’m in HO), same as on straights,on my is 36" curves, and about 2 1/8 on my 30" curves.
With 22.5" radius track, I’d suggest 2 1/2 to 3" centers on the curves, which should allow you to run some of the longer equipment. Other folks can probably answer that part better - my estimate is a back-of-the-hand estimate of what would work. In any case, if the larger curve isn’t available, you’ll have to “step” the smaller radius around the curve on the outside to maintain clearances, which may make the trains on that curve look pretty jerky in operation (curve-straight-curve-straight-curve…). You may want to try your hand at laying some flextrack on the larger curves to get smoother trackwork.
By the way, congrats on getting started, and don’t be stingy with the pictures - share your progress! [C):-)]
Rich- Glad to hear about a new layout going up, this is a great thing.
For me I had my track plan drawn out on the computer so thanks to the software I used, it told me exactly how many pieces of flextrack I needed and what radius gauge (piece of curved metal used to layout flextrack with curves) to get for laying the loops. Additionally the software will tell you exactly how long each piece should be and you can measure in the program the distance from a wall or other objects, so you just measure, cut and place.
This was the first time I have used software to do it and I don’t think I’ll ever do again any other way. I own macs so I had to use macintosh software but in case you need it I used “Railmodeller” it has tons of libraries of manufacturer track and buildings and the developer is a pretty nice guy as he was willing to modify part of the program for me while I was using it. Though there are a few really great layout design software programs out there for windows too. So my advice, unless you in a rush, get a program and transfer it to that, it will save you time and in some cases money, depending on your layout design .
As for clearance on curves and straight-aways, I used a 1.5 inches and I made a gauge from my inner line to make sure I got a nice smooth curve on both mainlines.
a) consider what equipment you will want to run. If long passenger cars and Big Boy locos, for instance, larger radii are needed or preferred
b) consider what room you want from outside track to table edge, particularly if you are making loops at one end or another. That affects how you can / will add details (scenery / buildings) between the outside track and table edge, especially at the back. All that affects the width of the layout at the wider points (don’t forget reasonable reach / access to build, operate, maintain).
c) I found designing track plans (I used software, but paper can do) most helpful in considering radically different plans and spaces, then deciding on a space and size and teaking that). The evolution of that was important for me.
d) I strongly advise getting a number of booklets on track planning and track laying (mostly from the MR site) and also checking the trackplan (free) database.
Good luck. Ask lots of questions and also try out the search feature (which does not work so good, IMHO).
Where is the “track plan attached below”? Do you know how to Post a photo of your track plan and room,(including doors, closets, and windows)? we will explain the “How to”, if you need help. Bob Hahn
Evidently, I did something wrong. The track plan was a walk-in mid-sized plan form the track plan database entitled “Hevonkuuisi” from the August 07 MRR. I didn’t see a direct way to attach the file (pdf), so I copied and pasted it into my post. It was there when I finished the writing and hit the POST button, but didn’t upload. I have the file readily accessible, so would someone tell me how to submit it. Rich
I have done trackplans transfer a few ways. For radius curves I have cut out 45 deg radius curves of a few set sizes (like min radius and frequently used radii).
For my current 6’x10’ layout I had the layout drawn in 3rd plan-it and printed out full size templates. Then I used the tool found in pumpkin carving kits that punches into the paper to the skin of the pumpkin to do the same with the paper template onto the foam.
Full size templates can be useful with specially track work like turnouts.
I am a little concern about the use of the Kato track with the limited selection of track radii. Depending on what type of equipment you want to run, 22.5" could be too tight to run some items.
What type of things do you want to do with this layout? Do you want to do operations? what time frame? do you have a decade or road you like or is it a free-for all? What type of equipment? Steam? Passenger? 89’ autoracks and intermodel?
It might be good to take some time to work out what you want to do before you build/buy something that you don’t need or have to change after you realize it won’t fit what you want to do.
Chris, thanks so much for providing the correct link info. I knew better, but had gotten so frustrated, because each of my responses had required the moderator review, that I misspelled the name and added the incorrect mag issue. I can’t believe I did that, because I had ordered the Oct 07 back issue last week. It’s supposed to be delivered this week. Oh well.
Movin on. Thanks for the welcome and all of the good comments, guys. I do intend to take my time and let the plan advance as I want it to. No more rushing to get something ready to fly (rc airplanes). I realize I have so much to research and learn. I just ordered the “Track Planning for Realistic Operations” book by Armstrong. I want to know more about realistic train ops. Right now, today, I think I want to concentrate on more recent 60’s to present freight ops using diesel locos. But at some point I may consider a steam loco, but I don’t think it will be one the the gigantic 20" $600 locos. Can’t even begin to think about that yet. Just wanna buy one engine and a car or two and expand from there. I’m in no hurry. But I live in Ellicott city, MD, and there a train show at Timonium, MD in mid April, that I would like to be ready to buy some additional track, DCC, engine etc. I ought to have a better idea of what I want by then. I chose this plan, because it seemed to be open enough to allow modification and to expand when I was ready, and doesn’t box off a whole room. One idea was to eventually add a staging yard off the lower right end.
Please give some leads for computer track planning software. I use an IMAC 21" purchased last fall. Been extremely happy with it.
Will each response continue to be delayed by the moderator instead of posting immediately??
Again thanks, and will keep you updated on my progress. Rich[:)]
Forgot to say that my initial interest is in the Chessie System, CSX and B&O lines, because that’s what I seen most of in my area. How do I find reference info on train line history?? I see so many engine model #'s mentioned that I know nothing about. Were to start???[:|]
Welcome to the hobby and the forum. After the first few posts, newcomers to the forum are removed from moderation.
The published plan you are looking at is not particularly well-suited for the interests you have identified so far (double parallel mainlines, freight operations, etc.). The published plan is for a Finnish layout with more of a passenger emphasis.
There are two approaches one can take when new. The first is to build something quickly that you know is likely not the perfect fit to your interests, with the expectation that you’ll tear it down and replace it relatively soon. My friend Dave Clemens dubbed this a “Chainsaw Layout”.
My advice (which no one ever follows, but I’m not insulted) is to instead read a bit and learn about the variety of ways to approach the design of a layout and then choose elements that are a good fit.
Some folks have found that building benchwork before choosing a track plan resulted in unexpected constraints – but to each his or her own way of doing things. The Armstrong book is an excellent first step.
Fine layouts can be drawn with pencil and paper, but if you want to use the computer, unfortunately the model railroad CAD programs for the Mac are somewhat limited. Empire Express (possibly easier) and Railmodeller (somewhat more complete) are two choices.
Thanks Byron for your good comments. Yeah, I saw that it was a finnish ry. I just thought that it had enough free space that I could modify or grow it as desired. I went through all the database plans, and it was the only one that seems flexible enough for what I thought I wanted- whatever that is. I’ve got time to read more and get smarter which I will do. Haven’t bought anything yet but books. Rich
I don’t see anything wrong with the way you want to lay the track out. That is what I have always done, but I use flextrack. While you are laying the track out, you can make any adjustments required to get things to fit the way that you want to.
Any photo must first be inserted in a Host album in Photobucket. Type in Photobucket.com and establish a free MRR dedicated album. Download your photos to this album. When you t,(or Paste in the upper left Edit bar)ype in Photobucket.com login there will be a series of rectangular options. Click on the Library one. Then click on “Link” And then click on the IMG option. Momentarily, the word “copied” will appear on a yellow background. Now go to the “trains.com Thread” and either as a Reply or to start your own Thread type in any text and then click on ctrlV ,(or Paste in the Edit bar above,and a lengthy photo code will appear. Scroll down to Post and click on it. Your text and photo will appear after the original poster’s blog. It’s easier than it appears. Good luck. Bob ,
As you do more research you’ll probably notice that there is no such thing as the perfect trackplan. You’ll have to make compromises. Just be sure your priorities are satisfied and the things that you sacrifice are lower on the list.
If I recall, the Hivassu (whatever) had some rather deep (away from the wall) benchwork and gobs of hidden track. All that space for scenery was achieved by sacrificing easy access to the track.
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