[:(] I have given up on installation of cork,WS roadbed, Atlas track(flexi & sectional), Atlas/Peco/Micro turnouts (et al) and I will be going with Kato’s Unitrack and turnouts. If this doesn’t ease the constant re-laying of track ,replacement of turnouts ,re-laying of ballast I will switch to Thomas and friends.
Art Gordon[:(]
What seems to be the problem, Art?
Are you working from a track plan or just putting something together as you go along?
Give us some more information on the problems you’ve been having and maybe we can help.
Darrell, helpfully quiet…for now
I think the maintaince is overcoming aartlib’s ability to run trains dgwinup.
I am seriously considering Unitrack myself. But for a different reason.
Cork, atlas flextrack and decent switches when laid right works well but sometimes… they “get bent out of shape” for a variety of reasons. Unitrack offers train running fun without the MOW slows.
Darrell,
It seems to me that the variety of radii in the Unitrack and the near foolproof ops of the turnouts will more than compensate for the loss of layout flexibility that flex track offers… and once down it stays down . I hope to be able to dress up the look of the track (which seems to me to be the biggest negative of using molded roadbed) with some imagination and the help of the" forum folks" . Is there a good mail-order source for the Unitrack?
Just a passing thought: I considered EZ-Track and possibly Readi Track but they look too flimsy and unreliable.
Thanks for taking an interest .
Art Gordon
They are not unreliable, nor flimsly, Art. I used EZ-Track exclusively, except for two cut pieces over my trestles, and three 15" sections into the three bays of my house. I have the good old snap switches, and except for some filing of the points, they work fine. I have three sets of feeders to 40 feet of track otherwise joined with joiners. No faults so far, and I run them an average of 80 minutes per week.
I ballasted, thinly, over the plastic ballast with washed beach sand and glued it the usual way. No problems, and it looks darned good, if I may say so myself. I even dirtied up the middle ballast a la Joe Fugate, and it looks spiffy…and quite realistic.
Strangely, I will undoubtedly use flex-track the next time I build a layout. I want the experience, but I also want the flexibility to make my own curves and easements, and to place switches where I want 'em.
I also want the experience of building spline subroadbed, but that’s a whole nuther chapter…
I was wondering about the ballasting… I guess it should not be too difficult to use plaster along the track itself as a rough earth bank in a pernament installation to the tabletop. (Frame?) and treating it with rocks weeds and stuff. But leaving the between the rails clean. Perhaps a brush of paint between the rails to kill the shine and make a sort of a dark grimy color … but what paint can one use for that without ruining the conductivity of the track or causing other problems?
Questions… questions…
When I did HO I used Atlas Code 83 flex track and I didn’t have any problems with it for three years (but I’ve now ripped it up). I liked the flexibility of it and building in my own easements, but now that I’ve switched to N scale, I’m thankful for the Unitrack. Sure, its not as flexible, but they have enough of a range of products that it is still flexible to a degree. The other thing with Unitrack that people point to is the high cost. While it definitely costs more, its not too insanely high when you consider the cost of roadbed and flex track, plus the extra time it takes to lay this in. Time is a big problem for me and with the Unitrack I can put down an entire layout in a half hour and be running. I can also pull it up and do something else in not much more time. THAT is flexibility to me and worth the cost.
[2c] on aartlibs comments regarding Unitrack and EZ track:
My large HO layout has over 500 sections of Bachmann’s EZ track along with four #6 crossovers and 2 dozen #5 turnouts.
None of them are flimsy, but reliability is an issue because the #6 crossovers are wired for DCC. My layout is “old fashioned” and I had to rewire them to accomodate my common rail wiring with insulated rail joiners. The only problems I’ve encountered after finally figuring out how to accompli***his, is to get both turnouts of the crossover to switch simultaneously. Very difficult and very unreliable. They are simply made for one controller for each side - I prefer one controller for both sides. Oh well - my problem.
All of my roadbed has been ballasted over simply because I didn’t care for the rather cheesy look of the plastic roadbed. It was worth the time, effort and expense to cover it. I’d do the same with Kato’s product.
There have been some weird problems regarding dead spots here and there and I’ve been told, and have read, that with sectional track and rail joiners, one should expect this in the long term. Pretty soon my pike will have more jumper wires than Carters has pills. Oh well (again). Don’t know if Kato’s track would have ultimately led to the same problems.
I think your choice of Kato is a good one. Going with quality never hurts. Plus Kato’s track just looks more realisticl. Bachmann’s is a good second choice. With me, price was a huge consideration - I purchased everything needed for about 1/3rd less than what Kato would have cost. Given the size of my layout, that’s money …
Hope this helps!
I’m not following the problem. Are you using the switches that came with the crossover or are you using your own. Either way you just run both turnouts to one switch.
Back to the original post. I’m using EZ track as well. Only 17 turnouts. The biggest problem I’ve run into is getting steamers to work with the turnouts. They do, but it was a lot of work.
Best mail order source for Unitrack is ToyTrainHeaven in PA. My layout is 100% Unitrack in “N” and it is bulletproof. There are several sites that mention how to make it look better. A good source is the Yahoo forum for unitrack lots of good help there. Dave
Hi all!..my 2 cents woth now…
davshaz, I looked up Toy Train Heaven. You are quite correct. That is the cheapest I’ve seen Unitrack and I’ll be ordering from them. Thanks!