I might add that the lumber stores will rip it for you. I had the 1/4"- 4’ x 8’ sheets ripped in half for the backdrop, but will probably have them ripped in thirds for the front, making them 18".
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Yes, except I would get the 1/4" as the 1/8" tends to be too thin and gets wavy.
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I have found the 1/4" hardboard is no longer sold by the Home Depot/Lowes of the world. They sell 1/8" (nominal) and 3/16".
I use 1/8 to cove corners and 3/16 for front fascia. I don’t have any trouble with ‘waviness’ when using 1/8 for coved corners. I should note that my layout currently has 21 coved corners.
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I can agree with this as the waviness can come from how it is mounted.
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Recently moved, and planning a floor-to ceiling mountain operation that I want to fill my basement. Foam scenery would be easiest (over framing) because some pieces would need to move for access. Anyone have any thoughts on necessary restrictions (eg, so many inches from heat or electrical sources)?
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Not sure what you are thinking as to electrical source, but I have never heard of foamboard as a problem with typical model RR wiring. As to heat source, I would not put it near a fireplace or wood stove. For a furnace, I would look in the owners manual for setback distances.
Edit: If you are using a hot wire to cut foamboard, I would recommend you do it outside because the fumes may be toxic. I don’t think I would ever use a hotwire cutter.
I wonder what precautions are advised when soldering around a foamboard layout top.
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If you are talking about using insulating foam board, it is used all the time right around electrical for the products primary purpose.
As far as heat, if you are talking about heat coming from a central air unit, it won’t be a problem at all. Some other direct heat source may be though.
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Would mounting the straight sections require a bit of framing perhaps ripped strips of a 2x4 along the edges to reduce the chance of waves forming?
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When I built my layout foam was not even considered as part of typical construction material.
Areas for track had to be sturdy quality plywood and Homasote. For scenery, a big change was to go from shaped chicken wire to thin cardboard strips weaved together and then covered in with plaster cloth and Hydrocal.
Eventually I replaced the base of my pop-outs with foam but that was about it. Now I will use it as the base for places where structures and roads will go but still shy away from using it under track work. Not saying it won’t work, and work well in those areas, only that the old school modeler in me still prefers to have good solid plywood under the rails - though today’s version of homasote is pretty much crap so I use cork roadbed. Come think of it, today plywood isn’t anything to shout about either.
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