I finally did some re-wiring on the SORRy and everything runs a whole lot better on the track that is laid. I got out the 4 “big” steamers and ran them each for a time. Even the 2 that “hesitated” somewhat before now run well.
I’ve got 2 (Bachmann Spectrum) k-4s, a 2-8-0 (IHC Premier) and a 2-6-0 Camelback (IHC Premier, also.) Now that I have a “working” layout, I need to put working KD front couplers on all of them. I wouldn’t mind changing the pilot on the Camelback, either.
I know I could do a search, but that leads to all kinds of crud and garbage, with a lot of digging and sifting. I’d like to hear what some of you suggest, having been there-done that. I have looked at the KD list and know what they suggest, but how do they mount/what modifications are neccesary?
Which look good, but you can’t run them with KDs, unless your crafty and don’t mind soem fudging. (lock the knuckle, lift and drop the Kadee in over it) I’m gonna use them on Unit trains. such as the Ringling and the Freedom(s) but if your switching and go to a club, or even just pulling someone else’s cars fro whatever reason, you’ll need a coupler chang car. lest the 0-5-0 switcher (hand) comes swooping in.
Back to topic: You have a non-working front coupler, no? You’ll need a dremel. You’l need to cut off the front coupler, and sand down a space for a proper coupler box (kadee and Seargent both sell boxes which=ever way you go. A;lso pick up a Kadee NMRA coupler height gauge. (will hold Seagents if that’s the way to go) And sand down a cubical shape in the pilot. The coupler gauge will tell you how high the coupler needs to go.
If you don’t have dremel, I’d get one. Any help so far?
Also the knuckle on the front frequently has room for a Kadee to fit into. so long as the front car has enough free play in the coupler box, you can lift and drop the knuckle into the front fake coupler and it will work.
I have found that, generally speaking, if Kadee recommends a coupler option, there is not much extra work to be done to mount them. You may need to buy a #50 drill and a 2-56 tap to mount the couplers via screw, or you may need to open-up the pilot where coupler drawbar goes through, to clear a Kadee box, but no “major surgery”.
If the modifications are extensive, generally speaking, kadee will *note, or just not recommend a coupler.
Thanks for all the good info. I never thought about going to the Kadee website[banghead], but a great resource. And, I do have a Dremel, but I think I’ll practice on one of my cheap switchers first.
Luckily, only the 4-6-2’s need conversions for the tenders, which should be easy; the other two came with knuckle couplers that have been functioning well.
Thanks to all. I’ll let you know what the results are in the (near?) future.
Some of you reading this post may only want to double head your steamers and don’t care about switching… Or maybe you are willing to put up with a non centering coupler…
Here is a very simple method to install a front coupler. First remove the dummy coupler. Then take a plastic shank coupler and drill a small hole in the shank. Drill a similar hole in the coupler mount and insert an L shaped brass wire into the hole.
Looks like this on an IHC 2-10-2:
Here it is after painting and changing to a semi-scale coupler… you can still see the bottom of the brass wire… Notice a small flat shim above the coupler shank to reduce vertical movement…
