Building a layout with min 24" radius HO. I am wondering what size steam engines I can get to go around this turn. Right now I am looking at Walthers Proto 2000 2-10-2 and/or 2-8-4. Would either of these handle a 24" radius. I am sure they won’t look too great going around those curves but on my layout they would mostly be in hidden return loops so the aesthetics is not as important as the physical ability to actually navigate the turns.
My PCM 4-8-4 handles my 24" radius curves and Atlas #4 turnouts (true frog angle, 4.5) just fine. The curves have been taking at full throttle. Diverging routes in the turnouts I haven’t tried at full speed yet, but at more realistic speeds it goes right through.
What does this mean? Not a lot, a locomotive similar in size to what you have, but by a different manufacturer, can handle the turns you want to use.
I don’t think you’d have any problems with most current plastic or die-cast steam available up to 2-10-2 (or even 2-10-4) wheel arrangements with a 24" minimum radius, save the ‘overhang’. Most of the current steam I’ve seen in action have pretty generous side-play on the drivers. And with the ‘double-articulation’ on most of the newer Mallet or simple articulateds, you shouldn’t have much trouble, either.
Where 24" starts to fail is if you begin running long-wheelbased brass steamers, which have a much closer-to-scale tolerance, especially on the driving wheel base. In that case, you’d probably be limited to 2-8-2 or possibly 2-8-4 wheel arrangements.
But I can’t see of any problems with the Proto locos you’re thinking of at all (except for possible cab overhang on the 2-10-2, but that’s strictly a ‘cosmetic’ feature).
The locomotives you mention should make it through this radius curve. Be certain to have easements built into the curves. The obvious is, that the larger the curve radius, the smoother the running. I would be careful about using # 4 turnouts anywhere but for industrial switching.[8D]
BLI used to list its Pennsy J1, a 2-10-4, as “recommended minimum radius of 24”. Our hosts at MR found that it was actually okay, sort of, on 22" curves. I found it to be too iffy and sticky, so 24" it is. But no way I’d run mine at track speed (say 50 scale mph) around such curves. Besides, on the prototype, a curve like that would require six or seven walkers watching the loco every step as it tried (and surely would have failed) even a fraction of a chain’s length of track with that curvature.
If I were you, and not really driven to get the biggest brute I could keep in those curves, I would look seriously at a Bachmann 2-8-0 from their Spectrum line, even one of their Decapods (2-10-0) that had small drivers and a tight wheelbase. Or, how about a J1 Hudson from the NYC (a 4-6-4 that were mostly passenger speedsters), or a Pennsy K4 Pacific ( 4-6-2, also generally speedsters). BLI has the Hudsons, or one of their dealers will, and Bachmann sells a K4. Try eBay, too, although you have to watch your bidding. Sometimes it can go quite high.
Back in the 60s someone imported a B&O Big Six with a recommended minimum radius of 30" but most modern lokes are going to be designered to negotiate at least 24" minimum radius curves. 2-10-2s and 2-8-4s will probably go around them alright but they’re going to look like h-e-double hockey sticks doing it.
Generally 18"R HO curves are “sharp”, 24"R is “conventional” and 30"R is “broad”.
24"R curves may present a problem with 80’ passenger cars with body-mounted couplers. Otherwise it’s not all that sharp, pretty much anything should go around it OK, Most HO products are designed to fit around an 18"R curve afterall.
My BLI 2-10-4 will do a 22" R curve but it doesn’t like it too much, it does bind a little. (As noted, BLI recommends 24"R or higher). Low-drivered 10-coupled steam engines like the Spectrum 2-10-0 or 2-10-2 should take 18"R curves with no problems, and will look fine on 24"R curves.
Because both sets of drivers move (instead of just the first ones) a Spectrum 2-6-6-2 can take 18" curves too, and should look OK on 24"R curves.
Geez, all of these responses about 22" and 24" radius being OK for a 2-10-2 and a 2-8-4.
I gotta tell you that with my double mainline with 30" and 32" radius, I still have to be careful running running a 2-10-2 or a 2-10-4, especially at top speed.
I could see a 2-8-4 handling the tighter radius of a 22" or 24" radius curve, but I would be real careful with 10 driver wheels.
I would at least place some easements into and out of the curves.
I run a 4-8-2, a 2-8-2, a 2-8-4 and a 2-8-8-2 on 22 inch curves. All run just fine. I’ve seen people have problems with the 10 wheeled drivers on 22 inch but 24 should be ok.