I just received the May 2005 issue of MR and there is an article about steel benchwork. I haven’t had a chance to read it yet but the idea is intriguing.
Has anyone implemented steel benchwork for their layout? What were the results?
No, I haven’t, but I’d bet that the layout is affected much less by humidity. Of course, if it was in excess of, say, 75%, it may rust unprotected steel.
It would also be fairly expensive, especially for non-mass-produced items, angles, supports, lengths, etc.
Depending on format and structure, it might even be considerably lighter than wood.
I’ve worked on the designs of buildings using steel framing, structures that in the past would have normally been wood framed. The reasons for using it was primarily the favorable financial savings. Lumber in the US fluctuates and steel studs are often cheaper than wood. I’ve also used it in commercial applications where it was required, but it is gaining favor as a replacement for traditional wood framing applications.
Steel studs are also considerably lighter, perhaps half the weight of wood. You can almost always depend on there being no rejects from a shipment of studs. It doesn’t shrink, warp, twist, absorb moisture. If there is a bad piece, it is likely due to it having been run over in the warehouse. And it comes with slots at 24" o.c. for running wires.
Rusting should not be an issue. This steel framing is coated using a galvanization process . If moisture levels in your layout area are high enough to affect the steel, wood framing would have long before rotted beyond hope .
No special tools are required beyond what most layout builders already have around. A variable speed drill and tin snips being the main ones. And work gloves. (The cut edges can be sharp.)
The fact that your layout gets screwed together rather than glued & nailed makes future modifications simpler .
Read the article. The author makes a good case for steel, one that my experience confirms.
Wayne
How does one adhere any styrospan used as a layout surface to the steel?
I considered it, we have steel work benchs at work, they all just clip together and have bolted angle braces for strength. They are incredibly heavy tho. So I went with free packing case wood!!
Ken.
I was intrigued with the idea of using steel studs and the article clears up most of the methodology. Looks good to me.
Harold
I only wi***he article was a little more detailed. What size track did he use? According to the website there are a couple of different sizes. Listing some suppliers of the studs would have been helpful also.
Muddy,
Do you think it is possible to make benchwork out of steel as in the article, but not have the height go the ceiling? Perhaps some studs perpendicular to the backwall which would act as feet? Do you think its doable?
The ability to easily modify, the lighter weight and apparently less cost sure is attractive!
Dave
Dave, it looks as he was using it in an unfinished basement deal, you could easly, to a typical half high layout using it. take everything you learned about lumber benchwork construction and transfer it to steel. there are a few difference like, as steel is stronger than wood, you can span a little longer without having to put a support leg down.
My only issue with the steel studs would be the protruding screw points that would invaribly snag you while working under the layout. I’m always careful to use the proper length drywall screw in wood so the point does not protrude causing loss of blood!
If you could get little plastic caps, like they have for the ends of the steel closet shelving, you could put them on any screw points that could pose a hazard…
Here’s a thought… use the steel framework for your common rail side and it would be grounded like an automobile frame??? OK, just kidding… or, maybe???
Ed
I haven’t been in a Home Depot in ages, but a call to them may be a good start. If they don’t carry steel, they might be able to direct you elsewhere.
Where do the local contractors in your area get materials?
As far as screws protruding, I suppose pop rivets could be used instead of screws. I’ve never seen them used in this type of framing., but they held my old 1959 VW bus together for ages. The screws shouldn’t be too much of an issue since a 1/2"screw is more than long enough and the excess will be protruding inside the steel channel.
Dave,
The studs wouldn’t have to go to the ceiling. A basic triangular leg as shown in the article, securely screwed to the wall will be every bit as strong as its commonly used wood counterpart.
Wayne
Muddy Wayne (sorry, but too good to pass up!)
Thanks! The more I think about it, the more interesting this steel benchwork concept becomes!
Pop rivits would probably work, but I would think that it would make modification just a little more difficult. Instead of caps, perhaps some silicone sealant could be used to prevent snags. Just stick a glop (technical term) on the point of the screw.
in the article 1/4 plywood was used on the top surfaces before laying on the blue foam
There was an article on steel benchwork in the SEPT 2002 Model Railroader
I’m not sure Sep 2002 is the right issue, but there was an article a few years back about making “domino” style benchwork with steel studs. The same article is included on the MR website under Layout Construction (here’s a link I hope will work: http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/000/131ievia.asp )
I used this method for an “around the walls” track plan in a 12 X 16 room, and I am happy with it so far. The part about attaching the legs didn’t work out exactly as described in the article, but I figured it out. When I went to start the project, the guys at Home Depot had no clue what I was talking about when I mentioned steel studs (and I have never found them there on my own). I found a local contractor supplier that was happy to sell me the small quantity I needed.
I will definitely use steel studs for future layout construction.
Tom
Tom,
Do you have any pics you could post of your benchwork? Sure would be great to see some. Did you find it to be lighter/easier/less expensive than wood?
Oops! [:I] MODEL RAILROADING not Model Railroader
No pictures yet, and not having a digital camera it would be a few weeks before I could post any. Frankly, it doesn’t look very different from the pictures included as part of the article that my previous post linked to. Check them out to see how it looks.
Tom
All the interior walls of my house are steel studs, covered with 5/8 drywall. Also, floor and ceiling joists are steel. Nice and level floors, straight walls, no popped screws caused by the studs “drying out”. Has anyone compared the prices of steel and wood recently? Steel may not be cheaper anymore.
Bob Hayes
We used it on our 40’x100’ club layout. Seemed to work good. Im thinking of building my shelf layout with steel. Would it be too flimsy to mout at a 90’ angle to the wall like you would with wood?
We discussed this over in the Coffee Shop some time back, I asked if anyone thought it would be preferable to wood. Most of the replys were negative, but the article answered alot of the questions that the guys were saying might make the steel less than desirable.
I am going to look for a supplier in my area, and if not the whole layout, at least any peninsulas will be steel framed if I can get it.
As for the screws poking you- I’ve lost a couple of quarts myself- I think I’d go with nuts and bolts, as I am better with them than with screws. Some Loctite would keep them from loosening up from all of the rail traffic!
I have had lightning knock out some electrical items over the last few years, I just hope the layout dosn’t get hit, watching a loco shoot thru a wall at 1000 mph might be a bit traumatizing!
Good article, and good post.